750 Paso Wiring Upgrade to Improve Starting
hello everbody, this is my first time in any paso forum.
anyway, I tried to download the jcslocum wire mods but with no success. Anybody that can, please email them to me
at sv2dfu@gmail.com
thanx again
Peter from Greece
paso750
anyway, I tried to download the jcslocum wire mods but with no success. Anybody that can, please email them to me
at sv2dfu@gmail.com
thanx again
Peter from Greece
paso750
- jcslocum
- paso grand pooh-bah
- Posts: 1714
- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2004 12:00 am
- model: 750 Paso
- year: 1988
- Location: Eastern Shore, MD
- Contact:
It's a PDF file so you will need to have Acrobat reader installed on your computer.
Get it here for FREE!:
http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readermain.html
Get it here for FREE!:
http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readermain.html
THANX
many thanks to Jon Slocum, Paul Hollich and Erskine Hewett for
your immediate responding, to my request for help.
Good to know that there are people out there willing to help
each other.
Will try the mod and come back with a report, just to let you
know what happenned.
Thanx again.
your immediate responding, to my request for help.
Good to know that there are people out there willing to help
each other.
Will try the mod and come back with a report, just to let you
know what happenned.
Thanx again.
sorry, didn't try the mod yet because of many problems with the bike.
Urgent help needed: If anyone knows about any good service shops in Italy that I could contact, please let me know as soon as possible.
I will be in Italy about June 27th and will stay a week.
Preferably at areas near Toscana..but not necessarily. I will travel where ever you could suggest a good mechanic.
Please help, I am desperate.
Urgent help needed: If anyone knows about any good service shops in Italy that I could contact, please let me know as soon as possible.
I will be in Italy about June 27th and will stay a week.
Preferably at areas near Toscana..but not necessarily. I will travel where ever you could suggest a good mechanic.
Please help, I am desperate.
-
- Posts: 163
- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2004 12:00 am
- model: 750 Paso
- year: 1988
- Location: Saronno (Varese), Italy
I just found some interesting articles about a similar mod applyed on BMW F650:
http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/FlayingtheVRFAQ.htm
http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/VoltageRectifierFAQ.htm
Here's the schematics:
As you see, the circuit differs slightly from the one proposed by jcslocum: in this one there's a diode connected to the 2 coil terminals of the relay... why? Here's the author's explanation:
If I were to install such a relay, I would put a 1N4001 diode backwards across the relay coil. The flat of the triangle (anode) goes to the ground end of the relay coil and the point of the triangle (cathode) goes to the (switched) +12V end of the relay coil. Why? Because a coil stores energy in the form of a magnetic field that is returned as current just as a capacitor stores energy in the form of an electric field (voltage) that is returned as current. The current through a coil can NOT instantaneously go to zero. If you are LUCKY, when you switch off the key, the energy will be dissipated in the arc across the open contacts of your ignition switch, which is not at all good for long switch life. Why is that LUCKY? Because if the energy is NOT dissipated in your ignition switch, it will appear as an ARC INSIDE YOUR VOLTAGE REGULATOR via that green wire you hooked to the relay coil. The diode costs less than a dollar. I could be wrong about the need for it. It's your US$250 regulator at risk, not mine. If I make this mod, you can bet your ass that mine will have the freewheeling diode bassakwards across it.
I think it's reasonable and I'll try this on my Paso, but maybe it's an eccessive caution: does anyone experienced problems with the original relay mod?
LC
http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/FlayingtheVRFAQ.htm
http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/VoltageRectifierFAQ.htm
Here's the schematics:
As you see, the circuit differs slightly from the one proposed by jcslocum: in this one there's a diode connected to the 2 coil terminals of the relay... why? Here's the author's explanation:
If I were to install such a relay, I would put a 1N4001 diode backwards across the relay coil. The flat of the triangle (anode) goes to the ground end of the relay coil and the point of the triangle (cathode) goes to the (switched) +12V end of the relay coil. Why? Because a coil stores energy in the form of a magnetic field that is returned as current just as a capacitor stores energy in the form of an electric field (voltage) that is returned as current. The current through a coil can NOT instantaneously go to zero. If you are LUCKY, when you switch off the key, the energy will be dissipated in the arc across the open contacts of your ignition switch, which is not at all good for long switch life. Why is that LUCKY? Because if the energy is NOT dissipated in your ignition switch, it will appear as an ARC INSIDE YOUR VOLTAGE REGULATOR via that green wire you hooked to the relay coil. The diode costs less than a dollar. I could be wrong about the need for it. It's your US$250 regulator at risk, not mine. If I make this mod, you can bet your ass that mine will have the freewheeling diode bassakwards across it.
I think it's reasonable and I'll try this on my Paso, but maybe it's an eccessive caution: does anyone experienced problems with the original relay mod?
LC
- Skins
- paso grand pooh-bah
- Posts: 1304
- Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2004 12:00 am
- model: 750 Paso
- year: 1988
- Location: Kapiti, New Zealand
I installed Jon Slocums wiring mods (one relay for the starter and one for the coils) about six months ago, and the bike's been running very well. However, she's had light use, probably not much more than 1000 km, and I haven't used the lights at all.
I've read about relays occasionally playing up because of residual current, or whatever. But Jon's mods don't involve the regulator as in the above diagram, so surely I don't need to worry about my regulator, do I?
-
- Posts: 163
- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2004 12:00 am
- model: 750 Paso
- year: 1988
- Location: Saronno (Varese), Italy
Just for who is able to manage schematics, here is the M900 simplified schematics:
http://www.freefotofile.com/ims/pic.php ... XKC&i=1326
And here is the same schematics base, but with the jcslocum mod upgrade:
http://www.freefotofile.com/ims/pic.php ... XKC&i=1329
As you see, they are quite similar.
The differences:
- jcslocum mod get main power feed (connector #87 on relay) directly from the (+) battery through a 30A fuse, while Ducati connects the relay to the existing fuse box, in parallel to the wire that goes to the key switch (jcslocum mod has less voltage drop)
- Ducati M900 uses a fused line to send directly the voltage reference to the Voltage Regulator, while jcslocum mod keeps the voltage reference connected with the other loads (I measured a 0,1V differences beetween the two options)
- Ducati M900 insert a 30A fuse to the line that connects the voltage regulator to the battery (so if the voltage regulator overcharge too much, maybe it will be disconnected before breaking)
- Ducati M900 doesn't leave anything exept the solenoid directly connected to the bttery (without fuse), while Ducati Paso leaves ... the clock connected unfused! So if the clock (or more probably the wire/connectors to the clock) "goes to ground", the battery is damaged with no protection
- Ducati M900 uses a diode 1N4007 to protect the solenoid
Definitively, I think that jcslocum mod not only is correct (we already knew it!), but it is very good because it permit to apply the same main wiring upgrade that Ducati put in recent models in the bad and old Paso schematics with a very little intervention.
However I would like to completely renew the power feed schematics tryng to apply the M900 ideas. I'm afraid it would not to be an easy work, but I'll keep you update on the results...
LC
http://www.freefotofile.com/ims/pic.php ... XKC&i=1326
And here is the same schematics base, but with the jcslocum mod upgrade:
http://www.freefotofile.com/ims/pic.php ... XKC&i=1329
As you see, they are quite similar.
The differences:
- jcslocum mod get main power feed (connector #87 on relay) directly from the (+) battery through a 30A fuse, while Ducati connects the relay to the existing fuse box, in parallel to the wire that goes to the key switch (jcslocum mod has less voltage drop)
- Ducati M900 uses a fused line to send directly the voltage reference to the Voltage Regulator, while jcslocum mod keeps the voltage reference connected with the other loads (I measured a 0,1V differences beetween the two options)
- Ducati M900 insert a 30A fuse to the line that connects the voltage regulator to the battery (so if the voltage regulator overcharge too much, maybe it will be disconnected before breaking)
- Ducati M900 doesn't leave anything exept the solenoid directly connected to the bttery (without fuse), while Ducati Paso leaves ... the clock connected unfused! So if the clock (or more probably the wire/connectors to the clock) "goes to ground", the battery is damaged with no protection
- Ducati M900 uses a diode 1N4007 to protect the solenoid
Definitively, I think that jcslocum mod not only is correct (we already knew it!), but it is very good because it permit to apply the same main wiring upgrade that Ducati put in recent models in the bad and old Paso schematics with a very little intervention.
However I would like to completely renew the power feed schematics tryng to apply the M900 ideas. I'm afraid it would not to be an easy work, but I'll keep you update on the results...
LC
-
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 12:00 am
- model: 750 Paso
- year: 1986
- Location: Sydney Australia
:lick: have just purchased a paso wiring loom with the intention
of modifiying it to improve the cable size and the way that it is
done hopefully i can incorparate the wiring upgrades into it for
the ignition and lighting relays so it does not look like a butchers
job as near the head stock it looks like a tangled spaggetti at
the moment with the relays for the headlight.
will let you know on the success of it when i get it done will also
try and post some pictures.
Rodney
of modifiying it to improve the cable size and the way that it is
done hopefully i can incorparate the wiring upgrades into it for
the ignition and lighting relays so it does not look like a butchers
job as near the head stock it looks like a tangled spaggetti at
the moment with the relays for the headlight.
will let you know on the success of it when i get it done will also
try and post some pictures.
Rodney