750 Paso Wiring Upgrade to Improve Starting

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Mon Aug 15, 2005 3:44 pm

Jon,

I finally made time to install your wiring changes. I haven't suffered as much as the other guys with starting. As long as the battery was charged it would crank for a while and then start.

After the changes I think the starter is spinning so fast that it doesn't always engage (it just spins up). On the occaissions that it does engage the motor fires instantly. Is this problme being experienced by others ?

Thanks

Paul

qldman36 · Post by **qldman36** » Mon Aug 15, 2005 5:31 pm

Sounds like your starter sprag clutch spring is to loose.Can be fixed without buyng new clutch.Can't remember site name,maybe somebody else here can,but good tutorial on fix.Just did it couple months ago,works great now.

qldman36 · Post by **qldman36** » Mon Aug 15, 2005 5:37 pm

If nobody comes up with the site,PM me and i'll try to walk you thru it.Left side case comes off,pull flywheel,clutch comes out back side fly wheel.Need impact wrench and 30mm socket.DO NOT attempt until you have all details.

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Tue Aug 16, 2005 6:53 am

Thanks qldman36.

I am moving house in two weeks and having to store my bikes from tonight until the move is over. If nobody posts the site I'll PM you in 3 to 4 weeks if that is OK.

Paul

qldman36 · Post by **qldman36** » Tue Aug 16, 2005 9:45 am

I'll be here,not a problem.
Carl

Post by **jcslocum** » Fri Aug 19, 2005 4:05 pm

Here;s some info on the sprag:

http://tinyurl.com/4smcg

The new higher voltage will not cause this problem. Repairing the old one seemd to be somewhat futile, so order a new one and replace it.

Have you recently changed oils?? I was told that this can cause some issues witht he sprag. Thicker oil when cold so it doesn't have the ability to move easily. Works great when hot.

qldman36 · Post by **qldman36** » Fri Aug 19, 2005 9:42 pm

Jon,
There is another site that goes into detail on the fix.
Futile? Whats futile about a fix that WORKS and is practically free except for your labor?Had spring so loose,didn't touch rollers about halfway around,shortened spring about 3/8"now never misses.[was to the point would not turn over enough to start.]

Post by **jcslocum** » Sun Aug 21, 2005 2:30 pm

You're right about it being an easy fix. I didn't read it all the way thru and recalled only that it didn't work for long.

Have you found the other site?

qldman36 · Post by **qldman36** » Sun Aug 21, 2005 11:21 pm

Haven't really looked for it but i recall that the author had to redo his since not enough taken off the spring the first time.I may be mistaken,but as i recall,after second fix had been fine for 4 years.The site gives no recommendation on how much to cut since there is wide variation in how much the spring may be stretched.907 that i cured had only 4000 miles on it since new but spring was really really slack.Think reason so slack is my laziness in not digging into it until it just wouldn't turn the engine over.

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 4:46 am

Jon,

I did change oils about five or six weeks before, but the first time that the starter just spun up like that was the first time after the wiring upgrade. My though is that previously it was so sluggish that it had time to engage.

Paul

qldman36 · Post by **qldman36** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 11:16 am

Jon,
Just read the site you posted and believe that is the one i meant.

Paul,
Don't believe "sluggishness" has anything to do with engagement.If and when you do dig into this,there is only one point that you must take special care to observe.First tho,from the picture,don't remove the allen screws from flywheel,just pull the snap ring and clutch will come right out.BUT, mark with scribe or whatever which side is out.Both sides look same but rollers aren't true rollers and must be oriented the correct way or starter will not engage.
Carl

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 11:32 am

Carl,

I'll probably be brave enough to strip this in a week or two. I have the printout from Jon's link (thanks Jon). You mentioned that you could put together an explanation of how / what needed to be stripped. Unfortunately I don't have a workshop manual so I have to rely on the help from you guys. Is it possible to put together the instructions on stripping this that you mentioned ?

Any idea of how much to cut off ?

When I get brave enough to strip it I will photograph the steps and try to put something together for the web site.

Paul

qldman36 · Post by **qldman36** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 7:30 pm

I did this to a 907 which involved dumping the coolant.Being air cooled the 750 should be marginally easier.
Very straight forward,remove left side cover which entails removing bottom frame tube so cover can clear sidestand switch lug.Can leave on alternator wires and swing and tie cover out of way.As to allen screws holding cover,best to take piece of cardboard and punch holes in pattern such as the cover,put screws in appropiate holes[different lengths].Now you have flywheel exposed.Tab on tabwasher behind 30mm nut needs to be straightened.Use impact wrench to remove 30mm[1 3/16 inch] nut.Slide off flywheel,voila,there's the clutch.
Remove snapwring,MARK OUTSIDE SURFACE of clutch and remove.You will then see the spring which holds the rollers in.Carefully remove spring without dropping out rollers.Close examination of spring will reveal where two ends are wound together.unwind ends and do the cutting on non-tapered end.Wind back together and reassemble in opposite to disassembly.
As to how much to cut,really don't like going out on a limb on this but will anyway.Since yours has not progressed to the extent mine did,i would say 3/16 to 1/4 inch.the reason i don't like giving dimension is that if it keeps stretching you will have to go back in again as in the site Jon posted and shorten more.But it works!
Any more questions,just post up. Carl

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 4:42 am

Thanks Carl.

Paul

redpaso · Post by **redpaso** » Wed Aug 24, 2005 12:56 am

Paul wrote:
...Unfortunately I don't have a workshop manual so I have to rely on the help from you guys...

Paul

Paul the 750 Paso Workshop Manual is in the "Downloads" Section of this site. They are not fantastic (not for the average guy anyway) & definately don't talk you through things as a Haynes Manual does, but it is worth printing off & should assist you.