Hallo,
I had a little accident with my paso.
Can anyone tell me the colour code number of
the blue paso laquer.
Thanx.
Greetings from Germany
Colour number
-
fasterdammit
- paso grand pooh-bah
- Posts: 708
- Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 12:00 am
- model: 750 Paso
- year: 1988
- Location: CNY, US
- Contact:
Hi, I just thought I'd let you know what I did. I had an issue with my blue Paso a couple years ago - it tipped over off the sidestand and fractured the mirror/turn signal pod. It wasn't utterly destroyed, but cracked in half essentially; I couldn't ride with it on the bike for fear of it falling off.
Since those pods are few & far between (and generally stupidly expensive) I patched mine together using a healthy dose of JB Weld (you could use Bondo too, I guess?) and lots of sanding.
The issue then was getting a paint match and covering up the grey JBW. Instead of ordering a can of touch-up paint, I actually took the bike one of the better paint stores in the area. They have a 'gun' that will 'read' the color index of any particular object. I brought in the patched-up pod to have them scan that, and then check another spot on the bike (unnecessary, but I was curious how much differential there'd be between the paint on the fibreglass vs the metal). Anyway, the purpose of this was so that the paint code they got from the bike itself would take into consideration the 15 or so years of time since the bike was painted - any paint fade, clearcoat haze, etc - would be accounted for because I matched the paint to the color of the bike, and not the number that somebody wrote down 15 years ago. Which may or may not even apply to my bike.
The end result - you can't even tell that that pod has ever been removed from the bike. It's a perfect match.
Also, if you got into patching plastics w/ JBW/Bondo, you've got to be careful for air pockets in the patch. In fixing my mirror pod, in order to avoid this in the final painting, I'd spray the pod with a light shot of primer and let that set. This will show you how smooth the patch is - any tiny air holes will be instantly obvious. Let that dry, then sand it down using 600 or 800 wet, and hit it with another shot of primer. Lather, rinse, repeat, etc - until the primer shows you a nice smooth surface, free of little air holes. Now you're ready to paint.
So I don't have the paint code, but if you can find a shop that will 'read' the color index of your existing paint job, I think you'll be happier with a custom mixed can of paint that you can be certain will match that of your bike.
Good luck! Hope the accident wasn't a bad one!
Jake (from NY)
Since those pods are few & far between (and generally stupidly expensive) I patched mine together using a healthy dose of JB Weld (you could use Bondo too, I guess?) and lots of sanding.
The issue then was getting a paint match and covering up the grey JBW. Instead of ordering a can of touch-up paint, I actually took the bike one of the better paint stores in the area. They have a 'gun' that will 'read' the color index of any particular object. I brought in the patched-up pod to have them scan that, and then check another spot on the bike (unnecessary, but I was curious how much differential there'd be between the paint on the fibreglass vs the metal). Anyway, the purpose of this was so that the paint code they got from the bike itself would take into consideration the 15 or so years of time since the bike was painted - any paint fade, clearcoat haze, etc - would be accounted for because I matched the paint to the color of the bike, and not the number that somebody wrote down 15 years ago. Which may or may not even apply to my bike.
The end result - you can't even tell that that pod has ever been removed from the bike. It's a perfect match.
Also, if you got into patching plastics w/ JBW/Bondo, you've got to be careful for air pockets in the patch. In fixing my mirror pod, in order to avoid this in the final painting, I'd spray the pod with a light shot of primer and let that set. This will show you how smooth the patch is - any tiny air holes will be instantly obvious. Let that dry, then sand it down using 600 or 800 wet, and hit it with another shot of primer. Lather, rinse, repeat, etc - until the primer shows you a nice smooth surface, free of little air holes. Now you're ready to paint.
So I don't have the paint code, but if you can find a shop that will 'read' the color index of your existing paint job, I think you'll be happier with a custom mixed can of paint that you can be certain will match that of your bike.
Good luck! Hope the accident wasn't a bad one!
Jake (from NY)
Just because you're not dead doesn't necessarily mean you're living, either.
1988 Paso 750 #753965
1997 Monster 750
1988 Paso 750 #753965
1997 Monster 750
