New cure for hard to start Paso bikes

[paso750]

true, most crimping pliers can handle only up to 6mm² wires. There are some though that go up to 10mm². For everything larger than that you`ll need much bigger tools that will also cost 10x and more. Doesn`t make sense to buy that for most people unless they use them professionally or very often.
I didn`t mean to criticize btw if that is how my comments were understood.

G.

[micklm]

Just a good discussion as far as I can see

[higgy]

ditto,no worries G

[Motolectric]

I didn`t mean to criticize btw if that is how my comments were understood.

G.

None that I saw. I'm very much a DIY type person and was just pointing out the limitations to going DIY on some aspects of the bike.

Even with my professional crimpers for other types of terminals it is possible to get a "looks good" crimp that is not a good termination. Even the ratcheting crimpers have to be calibrated for each crimp before they get them right.

Safe riding,

M./

[ducinthebay]

Yup. Bigger wires are better.
I too did the Powerlet upgrade on my ST2, and later my ST4s. Good improvement.

Proper crimping is the key with any connector, and bigger connectors are more difficult/prone to problems. Putting some dielectric grease on those also helps that the connection doesn't degrade over time.

If you have a cable that is a bit sluggish, cut through the crimp and take a look at how ugly it can be inside. A little bit of water and time will kill it. If it wasn't crimped tight originally, water will creep in and degrade everything. Just putting on a new connector often helps, but you have to clean a new section of cable, and it may not be long enough anymore.

Cheers,

[Duc906]

Will soldering the crimps be an advantage?

[Duc906]

Which type of grease would be better to use,dielectric or conductive?

[paso750]

I usually solder the ends after crimping. That will fill the smallest gap and grant contact in the full section. Be aware though the brazing solder should not creep in the cable behind the connector as it will become stiff and with vibration that`s usually the point where it breaks.

Dielectic and conductive grease are two different things. Conductive is for contacts/contact surfaces to improve flow of electrical current, dielectic to protect contacts after they`ve been assembled. It seals from moisture. So clean all contact areas and use dielectic grease after you have connected everything. I personally never did but theoretically you can use both.
Mentioning sealing from moisture - it`s important to overlap connector and cable with heat shrinking tube.

[Duc906]

Thanks G.
Legend as always.

[jcslocum]

This is a great discussion and very educational to boot!.

Mike, Thanks for posting (approved by me) the info on your wiring kit. The older Ducs have wiring issues and they are quite hard to resolve in a DIY manner without the specialized knowledge and tools. I have had conversations (written) with Mike and think he's an upstanding guy and trying to do the right thing for our older bikes.

[paso750]

This is definetely a topic I don`t think we ever had before.

[higgy]

Does the current carrying capacity of the same gauge wire vary with the no of strands, void space, manufacturing type, manufactuer?

Long story short,yes and no The reason multi strand wire is generally preferred is due to its physical properties rather than its electrical properties.Multi strand wires stays cooler,are better able to flex and in general last longer connection wise than single strand wire when properly terminated. Multi strand wires are less rugged and more prone to corrosion than single core wire. Single core wire also tends to expand and contract more than stranded core making positive termination more trouble prone over time requiring more frequent maintainance.
Electrically speaking there is very little difference aside from wire gauge in the properties of multi strand versus single core when the material used is the same. Electricity tends to travel along the outer surface of any wire and multi core wire for all intents and purposes acts like a single core wire gauge for gauge. jm2c

[micklm]

Thanks for the considered reply. Makes sense.

So aside from connections the main variable is just the material (i.e copper alloying/impurities).

Well, and corrosion as you say....

[higgy]

So aside from connections the main variable is just the material (i.e copper alloying/impurities).

The material and the gauge of the wire. Larger gauge can handle more amperage. Amperage is what does the work.
Larger gauge wire is less resistance,gold is less than copper and copper is less than aluminum resistance wise. Of course as G has stated there is a point where larger is going to extremes. I just disagree in this particular instance on what extreme is. 8 or 4 is fine,in this case I think 4 is better in the long run in this instance.

[paso750]

Regarding handling of current a 4 (21mm²) is not required for the starter. (You could probably tow a car with it btw ). Even the original cable can handle that. The main issue is the voltage drop. The point where we have a different opinion is to use thicker cables just to compensate their degragation over time. It seems this is one of the remaining arguments. Every cable will degrade a bit over time specially the ones which are exposed to weather. Therefore it`s important to make the new cables neatly, clean all contact surfaces and then seal them. If this is done with the necessary care there won`t be any problems for a long time.
If you still want something thicker take a 6 or 5 (16mm²), that`s more than sufficiant and easier to install than a 4. Of course a thicker cable will get less warm.

G.