Kill Switch - OFF to Start...ON to Run

Desmo_Demon · Post by **Desmo_Demon** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 1:20 pm

I ran across this issue in another thread, but can't seem to find it with the searches, again, so, I'll make this easier for future websearchers....

My Paso will not engage the starter with the kill-switch, on the right handlebar, in the "ON" position. I have to have it in the "OFF" position to get the starter to engage. The other problem is that, according to my multimeter, I am not getting any voltage to the coils when the starter is running.

In the other thread, it was started that you have to engage the starter with the kill-switch in the "OFF" position, and while the motor is turning over, you then put the kill-switch in the "ON" position to get the bike to start/run.

So, my question is......How do I correct this and make the starter engage in the "ON" position and get it to start as it should?

(*Note - For those following the progress of my Paso Project, I don't have the carbs back on the bike, but was checking various systems on the bike with the battery connected when I discovered this).

Post by **paso750** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 1:58 pm

your starter solenoid is ok ?
If nothing was rewired from a pervious owner it`s probably a bad switch or bad contact or ground connection.

G.

Desmo_Demon · Post by **Desmo_Demon** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 2:13 pm

paso750 wrote:your starter solenoid is ok ?
If nothing was rewired from a pervious owner it`s probably a bad switch or bad contact or ground connection.

Starter solenoid is fine. I believe it is a bad switch (contact in the switch), and from what I read elsewhere, fairly common on the Pasos.

Desmo_Demon · Post by **Desmo_Demon** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 2:48 pm

Finally!!! I found the original thread where I read about this...

http://forums.ducatipaso.org/viewtopic. ... highlight=

I was already planning on doing the wiring upgrade, so now it looks like it is practically mandatory.

Here's the direct link to jcslocum's wiring mod that he documented (it's a pdf file)....

http://www.frontiernet.net/~jcslocum/75 ... 20rev1.pdf

I read this mod several times in the last few days, but for some reason was only associating it with the low voltage to the coils and hard starting, but not to the kill switch problem.

Post by **jcslocum** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 3:38 pm

Funny, but there is no "kill switch" problem. All you do when you place the switch in the off position is kill the power to the coils which allows the starter to get enough juice to crank. Once it's turning you can then switch on.

Make the wiring upgrade and all of your electrical problems will go away...

Desmo_Demon · Post by **Desmo_Demon** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 3:47 pm

jcslocum wrote:Funny, but there is no "kill switch" problem. All you do when you place the switch in the off position is kill the power to the coils which allows the starter to get enough juice to crank. Once it's turning you can then switch on.

Make the wiring upgrade and all of your electrical problems will go away...

With all the reading I did on the wiring mod, this explains everything very, very simply. Thanks for the time you took to document the upgrade! I'll be performing this mod on the Paso quite soon.

streetsurfer · Post by **streetsurfer** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 5:24 pm

I agree the wiring mod is a must do, but I also had a very dirty start switch which even after the mod did not allow enough juice through to strongly crank the starter. This caused the same symptoms, only able to crank in the off position and fire when switched to run.

There is a tiny detent ball and spring in the kill switch so be careful disassembling it. It is not a big deal to remove and clean. Worth a check anyway. Mine looked like someone had globbed a pool of grease over the contacts then sprinkled Lucas dust (the oposite of pixie dust) on it. Cleaning made all the difference. This may or may be your problem.
Sorry for not having an internals picture. On an earlier disassembly I had also found the off/run/off switch to be just as dirty, but for some reason I didn't do both at the same time.

Seeing as how you are working on your own bike you probably don't need a picture but here you go anyway. If you look at about three thirty o'clock to my thumbnail you see the spring that surrounds the contacts, through the larger round hole. One end of the switch pivots on molded in pins which snap into the black case. The other end has the detent ball and a tiny spring. So, two springs and one ball to watch for. Gently prying the case apart releases the orange lever/button.

ducapaso · Post by **ducapaso** » Fri Sep 01, 2006 5:41 pm

to test the kill switch you can just search his plugging to the main eletrical plant... it might be full of rost! your multimeter will easly tell you how the switch is working.