ducatipaso.org

I finally have the spare time to introducé myself to my other paso friends.
My name is Sebastiaan, 30 years old and live in scheerwolde, netherlands.
With my wife kristel and two children. Dewi and my main man aden.
I began riding about 6 years ago. First bike, a 1990 zzr 1100. Awesome bike, Lots of fun and always starting. Second bike a hayabusa. Great motorcycle, fast and heavy. Also fun but still something is missing. And there was my first paso. Traded iT for the zzr. Fell in love. She is fat, slow, doesnt want to start. Just perfect. Drove home and there goes the clutch. Luckily i saw this site and replaced the clutch and upgraded iT with the skate bearing and all. She had mikunis and hyperpro. Came in Some money issues and sold her after a year of so. A few years went by and bought again a paso. 1986 build year. I checken the frame Numbers.
She looks Allright. But needed service fast. New belts. Oil and filter. Rebuild weber. I did iT all. Except the valve clearance and here is my first issue. She rides like iT just rolled of production. But she wont idle. She couchs out of the weber. Meaning valve clearance when hot is not good. I checken clearance and yes, they are not good. Want to replace the shims but i cant. I dont have the proper tool to extract the shafts holding de rocker arms. Anybody with a idea. Or a self made tool solution???? For now check the pictures, i replaced the Exhausts 2. The ones that were under were cut open at the end and were too loud.

Greetings, Sebastiaan.

Hi Sebastiaan , Im pretty sure there is a clip on each opening rocker shaft that , when removed ( just pull it off ) allows the rocker to be slid side ways far enough to remove the opening shims, sometimes you have to rotate the cam back and forth a bit to allow the rocker to clear other cam lobes . Don't drop the closing shim collets down the oil return hole

Hi Sebastiaan, welcome to the forum. Since you have a early 750 paso and I assume without the gold colored valve covers then you will have to take the side covers or cam bearing covers off and although there is a special tool for this I believe you can just screw in a bolt, maybe 5mm? into the rocker shaft and probably tap it out or pull it out away from the head. The 88 and up are much simpler in that you don't have to remove the shafts to change the shim. I'm sure someone will chime in shortly with the exact procedure and that hasn't had a glass of wine before respondinng Regards Arch.

I got lucky Had an early head that had minimal to no corrosion on the rocker arms, and well oiled. however was able to remove the rocker shaft with a 5mm? allen bolt and a set of vise grips. However there is a tool for this that is not overly expensive and have used myself since.

The insertion tool on the bottom made replacement very easy surprisingly.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DUCATI-TOOL-ROC ... c0&vxp=mtr

Thanks guys. I know this site is a juge bundle of information. And i saw the ducati valve moves. But as a330us and wcmiller2002 say, ive got the early model. Going to shop today for Some stuff and make my own special tool. Is iT also normal to sand your shims to the correct size or am i saying something stupid?

Hej, Sebastiaan. Goed om te lezen dat er een is gered van de sloop. Er zijn inmiddels niet veel paso's meer in goede staat. De as verwijder ik met onderstaande schroefoog. Schroevendraaier erdoor oid en je trekt het er zo uit. Shims schuur ik ook gewoon op maat op p800 / p1000 schuurpapier op een vlak plaatje/glas. Wel met water.



Translation:

Nice to see that one is saved from parting out in the Netherlands. I remove the axles with item above. Stick a screwdriver through and its pulled out easy. I sand the shims on p800 / p1000 sandpaper (wet).

sanding shims is sometimes the only way to get it correct

Today i adjusted the valves. Yesterday i found the problem that the vertical cilinder the closing rocker was too tight, what explained the popping out of the weber. So tonight i assembled it again and tested it. It runs, it idles. And still when warm it is popping out of the weber. I again synchronized, afr checked. Double check with colortune. Strange thing here what happened. One of the hoses of the synchro kit fell of, now no popping out of carb, but out of the Exhausts. This paso just doesnt like idle running. Again it rides great, but when it needs to idle, it pops and dies. Time after time. Does anybody here have a idea? Im getting frustrated, angry and what not. Again, i need someone who has Some idea because im out of ideas. When warm, popping carb. Anybody

Popping or sneezing through the weber indicates a lean idle mixture. Popping and banging from the exhaust indicates a rich mixture. Maybe put a video on youtube, so we can hear the bike react.
Lean idle mixture could be solved with larger idle jet. When installing a bigger idle jet, the problem could arise that the transition to main stage will be to rich and will give a stumble. Maybe it helpes if you adjust the idle screws a bit outward. This will give it more fuel while idleing.
Also try to check if there isn't any air leakage. The idle jets have o-rings that could fail and the bearings of the main shaft in the Weber sometimes leakes.
Léon

i was a mechanic. Bought a paso. And became a mechanic.

you mean you had been a mechanic, Now you are a meccanico


color tune is useless with modern fuels, but they will still sell you one

Thanks higgy, i Will change it. So, ive recieven new intake rubbers from Brutus. What is happening now, Well, the popping changed from the vertical cilinder that pops, to the horizontal cilinder. Im losing my mind now. What to do with the air Bypass screw??? One closer, one open, both closed, or both open. Still open for ideas guys!!! Help this paso.

One bypass screw should be closed ( the one on the cylinder that flows the most air past a closed throttle plate ) and you really need a carb balancer to get this right , and as with one bypass screw closed there will be differing amounts of air flowing over the idle / progression ports in the carb and allowances will have to be made for that , the cylinder with the bypass screw open will run leaner even if both idle mixture screws are set the same. .................. and , has any one told you that the likely hood of both cams being timed correctly ( or even the same ) is slim , mine were 8deg apart. You could worry about this but its probly easier to accept that two , supposedly the same cylinders , may require different carb idle jet / bypass settings on each venturi to get an acceptable idle . One thing is to make sure you have acceptable and ( reasonably) constant fuel pressure to the carb ( lots of different ways of doing this ). Make sure you have good battery voltage to both coils and the digiplex

So today i have succes. The paso idles, not at a steady rpm, it Goes up and down some rpms. It ran idle for about 4 minutes, so Lets check those spark plugs, Carbon fouled plugs. Not Nice coffee Brown but black. Lean is white, black is fuel, Brown is superb. My paso doesnt like superb. It likes fuel, so i should presume that this is normal??? At least normal with the weber installed? My first paso had a Brown spark plug, but it had mikunis. Would like to hear your opinions.

Hej Sebastiaan. Mine has coffeebrown plugs. Could it be that wrong type of plugs are installed?
Léon

I`m with Mc tool check the voltages.

G.