Broken Neutral Switch

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Rickman
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Joined: Sat Sep 15, 2018 1:12 am
model: 750 Paso
year: 1988
Location: USA

Broken Neutral Switch

Post by Rickman »

I installed a new copper washer on my leaking neutral switch, it just began to snug when the head of the switch broke off. The plunger itself is all that's holding the head to the threads. If I break the head off I think getting the threaded part out of the engine case won't be too bad, but, I fear the plunger part of the switch will fall into the motor. So my question is; If the clutch assembly is completely removed can I access the backside of the neutral switch?
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Duc906
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Re: Broken Neutral Switch

Post by Duc906 »

Rickman wrote:I installed a new copper washer on my leaking neutral switch, it just began to snug when the head of the switch broke off. The plunger itself is all that's holding the head to the threads. If I break the head off I think getting the threaded part out of the engine case won't be too bad, but, I fear the plunger part of the switch will fall into the motor. So my question is; If the clutch assembly is completely removed can I access the backside of the neutral switch?
Hi Rickman
It depends on where the switch is broken.
-If it's broken at line A then you should be ok to unscrew the switch without issue as the plunger should still be retained in the head.
-If it's broken at line B, I think this is what you're describing, then you may need to get at the back of the switch, unfortunately you will have to split the cases to do that.
You might have some luck if you can get some locking pliers onto the head an apply a pulling force while trying to unscrew the switch.
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Rickman
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year: 1988
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Re: Broken Neutral Switch

Post by Rickman »

It broke off at the B-line. My thought is that if the bike is in neutral, shouldn't there be something pushing against the plunger? I think if the bike is in neutral and I break the head off the switch, I may be able to unscrew it. With the head gone there should not be much tension or pressure on the threads.
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Derek
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Re: Broken Neutral Switch

Post by Derek »

The end of the plunger bears against the gear selector drum which has a bump on it to push against the switch at the neutral position. A friend had a similar breakage with the neutral switch on his 900ss. He managed to unscrew it easily with nothing left inside.
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Rickman
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Joined: Sat Sep 15, 2018 1:12 am
model: 750 Paso
year: 1988
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Re: Broken Neutral Switch

Post by Rickman »

I'm feeling better about tackling this thing, now that I've had a few days of being busy, and time to think about it. I think I should shift the bike into gear so as to relieve any pressure on the threads, and then I think I will be able to get it to come out. Just need a little time and a warmer day. Been freezing here!
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Derek
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Re: Broken Neutral Switch

Post by Derek »

I would leave it in neutral. Pressure on the threads will only be that exerted by the spring which isn't a lot. In the neutral the cam on the selector drum will keep the plunger almost fully depressed so it has no chance of falling out into the gearbox innards. As it is being increased the gap will increase and the chances of that happening too but in the neutral position that gap will be at a minimum and the risk lessened.
1994 907ie
2017 Supersport 939
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1982 Pantah 500SL (now sold)


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Rickman
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Joined: Sat Sep 15, 2018 1:12 am
model: 750 Paso
year: 1988
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Re: Broken Neutral Switch

Post by Rickman »

I was going to try it that way first. Maybe New Years day, I've got the day off and I was able to set up my propane heater in the garage yesterday. I'll post what happens, thank you for your input!
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paso750
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Re: Broken Neutral Switch

Post by paso750 »

Derek has a point but if the switch has broken off in position B and only the hollow & threaded part of the switch is left, the spring may have already jumped/fallen out. If not I'd probably remove it and insert a little bit of silicone sealant to secure the plunger from falling into the engine. If the threaded part doesn't turn it is possible you screwed in the switch too far and there's pressure on it in which case putting the engine into gear may help. Once it's loose you may be able to get it out with the eraser side of a pencil or something similar that has grip. If it's sitting tight and depending on how long the spring was, inserting a torx key may also be an option. You could also find a long thin bolt and glue it in. Best to do the last two when the gearbox in is neutral.
I'm still wondering why the switch snapped off. If you're still using the old one how thin was the new copper washer you used? The original one is 1.5mm.
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Re: Broken Neutral Switch

Post by Tamburinifan »

Gert

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Rickman
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Re: Broken Neutral Switch

Post by Rickman »

I had to modify a screwdriver, but it came out pretty easily. I tried to pull the bolt head and turn but it broke off. Luckily when it did it bent the end of the plunger, so the plunger could not slide into the motor. I then modified a long thin screwdriver and was able to turn the threaded shaft outward, as soon as there was enough for a bite, I used hemostat's like small needlenose and threaded it out. Luckily I have two more switches!
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Duc906
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Re: Broken Neutral Switch

Post by Duc906 »

Good outcome :thumbup:
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