ducatipaso.org

paso750 wrote:ok, you asked for it. Go back out in the garage, look for a wire and tie that rear caliper to the frame - now. You may also replace that rag in the engines swingarm bushing with tape as the rag won`t really protect from dust.
Nice engine stand btw.
So what`s the story about the other bike, what happened ?

G.

Already tied up the brake caliper.I noticed it when I was uploading the photos .

Pushing to hard on old tyres.Time for some new ones before it spits me off.

Cheers
Andrew

I wonder if soda blasting would help removing the spots. I cleaned some old corroded carb bodies from my Alfa once. The result came quite good. It makes lots of dust though.

paso750 wrote:I wonder if soda blasting would help removing the spots. I cleaned some old corroded carb bodies from my Alfa once. The result came quite good. It makes lots of dust though.

I tried soda blasting today but it did'nt work.I'm wondering if the original paint did it or the paint stripper stained it?.I'll try a few more things and if I don't get a result I'll paint like original.

Is it too late to change my mind


Hello Nara.....


....not sure

Well, now that you gotten to that point, you are a candidate for a 900 motor, or an SS USD front end with 17' wheels.
At the bare minimum, you have to go for the 4.5" x 17" rear wheel (160 or 170 rear tire).
Cheapest / fastest way it to find a wrecked SS for cheap. Use the motor, swingarm and rear wheel, and the front end, and sell the rest. Could come out close to even. Of course that 900SS sitting next to it becomes a like candidate for a donor bike. Which do you love more? Now its a battle of two mistresses.

Check out Loud Bikes Blog on his Cadillac/ Caddy 900 Sport.
http://loudbike.blogs.com/loud_bike/page/10/

As always with a 20 year old bike of limited production, the question is:
- Should you return it to stock and keep it as a museum piece? (16" wheels, older brakes, 80's suspension)
- Or should I hotrod it to make a bike I can ride and keep up with the boys on the weekends? (17" wheels, new modern rubber, new big brakes, adjustable suspension)

I chose the later, as my bike was too far gone for the former. And yes, it does keep up with the boys on Sunday. But the choice is yours.
Is faster better? Depends on who you ride with.


Cheers,

At this point I'm going to keep it pretty much stock.I never really bought it to ride ( which is the first time I've done that ) but to save it from rusting away to nothing.And besides I don't have any money left to buy any extra bits just at the moment To be honest this is my first project and when I mentioned about comments or suggestions I probably worded it wrong.What I meant was how to's etc liking stripping the paint off or as you mentioned earlier about putting the extra bracing near the steering head.Is there any specific tube size for this or anything special I need to know before welding it on.

Cheers
Andrew

Instead of asking yourself what you`re doing you should realize that you have already arrived at the turning point of your project !
Remove the type plate from the frame, make pictures of the stickers if there are any and then the frame is ready for mediablasting and powdercoating or a new paintjob. When the fork is rebuild you can already start reassembly.

G.

Good call on the stock restoration.
There seems to be reasonable options for tires now, and you have all the rest of the key bits.
The frame is Chrome Moly (CrMo) so a bicycle builder is your best bet to get some tubing that will add what ever bits you need, like the braces on the headset.
Painting the frame is big pain, but if you have the time and energy, it shows nicely. I have the tendency to just fix the dings and call it good.

Here is a new fork product that is getting some pretty good reviews, and may fit your fork.
http://store.ricorshocks.com/
Ricor Intiminators.

Some of the notes from my rebuild:
- Get a package of red zip ties for your rebuild
- Get the best hoses you can buy.
- Silicone dielectric grease for all you connectors.
- Gel cell battery.
- Upgrade the size of the battery ground and starter cables. (forgot who sells those, but search the site)
- Add the ignition relays as described elsewhere on this site. (Eastern Beaver makes some nice kits)
- Clean and repack the clutch release bearing before it blows up. (same as Paso, lots of posts on this)
- New wheel bearings if they are suspect.
- Get a kit of Stainless bolts for an SS model, as most of them will fit the Sport. (e-bay)
- Replace the filter and hoses in the tank

Cheers,

forget the gel cell, get a glass matte IE Dekka

you will just blow the gel cell up

motolectric..........http://www.motolectric.com/

ducinthebay wrote:Good call on the stock restoration.
There seems to be reasonable options for tires now, and you have all the rest of the key bits.
The frame is Chrome Moly (CrMo) so a bicycle builder is your best bet to get some tubing that will add what ever bits you need, like the braces on the headset.
Painting the frame is big pain, but if you have the time and energy, it shows nicely. I have the tendency to just fix the dings and call it good.

Here is a new fork product that is getting some pretty good reviews, and may fit your fork.
http://store.ricorshocks.com/
Ricor Intiminators.

Some of the notes from my rebuild:
- Get a package of red zip ties for your rebuild
- Get the best hoses you can buy.
- Silicone dielectric grease for all you connectors.
- Gel cell battery.
- Upgrade the size of the battery ground and starter cables. (forgot who sells those, but search the site)
- Add the ignition relays as described elsewhere on this site. (Eastern Beaver makes some nice kits)
- Clean and repack the clutch release bearing before it blows up. (same as Paso, lots of posts on this)
- New wheel bearings if they are suspect.
- Get a kit of Stainless bolts for an SS model, as most of them will fit the Sport. (e-bay)
- Replace the filter and hoses in the tank

Cheers,

Excellent info there mate I'm afraid electrickery is'nt ny forte.Luckily the wiring loom came off easily and I taped and marked everything that needed to be.I also took a squillion photos of every part of the procedure.Are the red zip ties just a cosmetic thing.Would they be U.V. resistant?.
I've heard good things about intiminators as well.
Cheers
Andrew

higgy wrote:forget the gel cell, get a glass matte IE Dekka

you will just blow the gel cell up

motolectric..........http://www.motolectric.com/

Thanks Higgy.i need a new battery for the 750SS and was looking at one of these.

http://www.motobatt.com.au/

I'm hoping the one battery will fit both bikes.I'll measure them up and see.

Cheers
Andrew

Red cable ties are just cosmetic. If you put some textile tape on the places you will then position the cable ties you`ll lower the chances for them to rub through the paint. (non very sticky tapes like the ones you`ll find cheap in a sports shop for taping the grip of tennis rackets will work just fine)

[Here is a new fork product that is getting some pretty good reviews, and may fit your fork.
http://store.ricorshocks.com/
Ricor Intiminators. *]

This is interesting, I have just sent all dimensions required from my forks to Race Tech hoping they have a set of emulators that will fit these strange 40mm M1BBs. I'll do the same with these guys and see what they come up with. Anyone on this site fitted emulators or "intiminators" to our forks?

PS anyone in Aus going to the Phillip Island classic bike races next weekend?

I have traded e-mails with the folks at Ricor, about making one for the M1R fork (on Pasos, 417mm) While they don't have an alternative for it now, he said if I sent him my forks, he would make a set for them. When I get some spare time, I'll be packing up my forks and sending them to him.

They do make one for a 40mm fork currently, so it should be plug and play.

Cheers,

Not too much to report as most of what I'm doing is slow going,i.e. cleaning and polishing .

It looks like I'll be needing some new inlet rubbers.Does anyone know who can supply these?.




I've removed the belts so I can clean up the pulleys and rollers....




....and have started cleaning up the rims.I was going to completely strip the rims ( and still might ) but the paint is not too bad.There's a spot or two of corrosion in the paint but generally good.






I also removed the disc for better access.




It's Australia Day here so I'm hoping to spend the day cleaning up the rims.I've started with 120 wet and dry but it's not coarse enough to get through the corrosion quick enough so I'm heading out to find some 80 grit.
Cheers
Andrew