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Used an epoxy steel , seems nice and smooth so will go with that and some vibratite or similar, also have fitted the new grub screw with oil hole in crank on alternator side, can finally refit both covers and clutch

Both covers on and after a last minute helicoil on clutch side I'm really happy how it all went together, clutch internals are not installed yet just setting the gasket

Looking good mate

Love following this build. Excellent workmanship and good pictures! Where did you source the frame plugs? (simple search and I found them on ebay) I would like to pic some up for my 750 build I recently completed.
Cheers,

You can get frame plugs at a furniture/ hardware shop too

Thanks guys it helps to get other guys views and input as my builds tend to take a while and you can get a bit slack, I got the frame plugs from steinedinse, things will hopefully move quicker now as I don't have a bike to ride, clutch internals now then I need to source a new clutchline and new oilfeed pipes to barrels

Hey tweaking that 750 sport is beepin awesome mate I may need to ask you for a couple of pointers before I finish this rebuild , cheers mate

Is there a certain grease for this job and like Paso 750 said is that a broken bolt in the end of the mainshaft ??

That blue stuff looks like Hylomar.
Does your clutch pressure plate still have its guide pin on the backside? That should move inside the shaft. Hopefully it didn't seize and someone managed to break it off.

Yeah the grease is just a wheel bearing grease and the guide is broken in the shaft , I tried to drift it out the other side but she just went in about 15 mil and stopped , I believe it should push out either side, any ideas for this little hurdle?

With the shaft sitting between bearings it's not ideal to use a hammer but I guess there's no other way. Due to the oil seal applying heat is also a bit dangerous. Can you get to the opposite side and drift it out from there using a long threaded bar or something like that? It's sure easier to push it back out than fully through the shaft. First I'd spray good penetrating oil on it and let it sit for 24h. Then try again.
What I'm wondering is how long the guide pin is and how much way it requires to move. Maybe the 15mm you have now is sufficiant and you can let the broken pin as it is. As it's seized it shouldn't go anywhere.

Thinking about it. What did you need bearing grease for?

Maybe it could be knocked out from the other side using a pushrod from a later model that has the external slave cylinder on the opposite side?
You could drill it out with plenty of grease in place to try to keep the swarf captive but could any of the drillings get into the gearbox from the cavity through the shaft? I don't think so.