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I've been working on lowering my footpegs. I'm getting older and after 6 knee surgeries, my knees do not bend as they use to. When I ride, especially going down hill in the twisties, I can hardly get off the bike and I like to ride all day in the mountains so I need to be able to survive. I bought a set of adjustable footpegs that work really well but I thought I could add more. So I have fixed some plates that use the existing holes, brackets, and plates. With both devices I have move the footpegs forward and about 13.5 inches off the ground. What a difference it makes. I'll post the pictures soon.
du907

Interesting...
I also am getting old, so I'd like to see those footpegs.
Please, put some photo when you'd have done the work .
Ciao

Here are the plates I made combined with the adjustable footpegs that I bought to lower and move slightly forward my footpegs. They work really well and what a difference they make in the comfortability level for my knees. As you can see, they don't look bad and you can hardly tell that anything has been done (just the countersunk bolt in the middle of the original plate). I did get another set of plates off of E-bay for a backup so that everything can be put back to original condition. No modifications where made to the original frame mounting areas. Both sides are the same with the holes bored the same.

I first started with this 2" wide by 3 ft. long by 1/8" thick (50.8 mm x 914.4 mm x 3.175 mm) piece of aluminium that I found at the local big box hardware store (Lowe's).



I then pressed a piece of paper up againist the frame mounting area and sketched this template.



The left (gear shift) side with the factory footpeg plate removed showing the frame mounting area.



Here are the two plates that are made identical. It takes two 1/8" thick plates per side. Notice the one plate or outside plate has the one hole countersunk for the countersunk bolt that goes in the uppermost hole at the frame mounting area.


The two plates positioned together to make one plate.


The two plates together with the bolt types that I used. All bolts are longer than the original bolts (they will pass through the original mounting area and the two 1/8" plates plus the original footpeg plates. Notice the countersunk bolts, one painted black and one painted aluminium.


My new plates positioned in place.


The new hole made in the original footpeg plate. The hole is countersunk for a countersunk head bolt.


The adjustable footpegs that I bought off the web.


Here is the one problem area. After mounting and adjusting the gear shift lever the way I like it, the lever hits the kick stand and makes downshifts difficult.


My first adjustment was to put some washers as spacers on the gear shift bolt to move the lever out to clear the kickstand.


I'm still working on this. I may take the kick stand and cut it just behind the pivot point. Then move it in toward the engine and weld it. It won't take much of an angle to make it work


The right (brake) side footpeg. You can't tell anything has been done except for the new bolt in the middle. The lower existing bolt is just the head of the bolt glued in place so everything looks good.


The adjustable footpegs bought off the web.


The footpegs are now slightly forward and about 13 1/4" (336.55 mm) above the ground.


I believe I can modify a pair of rear OEM footpegs and drill them so that they will replace the peg pieces you see here. The rear pegs have more aluminium thickness to work with than the front pegs. I will post pictures when I finish the work.

Well done. I`m curious though, why did you make the mounting plates as an exact copy of the original mounting area of the frame ? If you`d made them longer on the bottom you could`ve used the lower bolt of the footpeg plate w/o having to drill a new hole in it.

G.

Well done,
are those Variopegs?

And,
just the footpeg plate mod,
how much lower was that, 1 inch?

Paso750:
The main reason I could not move the original footpeg and plate any lower was the lever linkages, especially the brake side would hit the exhaust pipes. If you will look at the brake side picture above, look at where the brake rod connects to the linkage, you will see it is just above the exhaust pipe. Luckly with my feet on the pegs my toes point down so I adjust my levers slightly lower than the footpeg itshelf. That kind of adjustment moves the rod attachment point up.
Upon reading your post again I understand what you are saying about the lower bolt hole. However, look real close and you will see the lower bolt hole lines up with the main frame tube so I would have to drill into the main tube which I did not want to do. If I move the whole plate back a little what you said could be accomplished as long as the linkages didn't hit the exhaust pipes.

Tamburinifan:
Here is a link in the USA. I have seen them on some European dealers sites also. http://www.eurotechmotorsports.com

Upon review of my posting above, I did noticed that I did not mention that I shortened the shift rod to make things work. The shift rod is basically a solid piece of aluminium that has been tapped at each end deep enough to allow the adjusters to screw in all the way. After cutting mine, I had to drill a hole centered in the shaft and tap it for no. 6 threads deep enough for the adjuster.

I rode to Mount Mitchell yesterday and everything work really great. It was about a 400 mile day and my knees where not sore at all. I won't mention other body parts but at least it has helped my knees!

However, look real close and you will see the lower bolt hole lines up with the main frame tube so I would have to drill into the main tube which I did not want to do

I wouldn`t do that either. You said though the lower bolt on the footpegplate is a dummie so I assumed there`s a nut on the rear side. If so there may have been the possibility to make the adapter longer on the bottom. I didn´t mean to change the footpegs position, just prevent drilling the plate.

G.

When I was positioning the existing footpeg plates I tried to keep the top and front of the plates in line with the frame tube toward the rear and the larger down tube so they would look correct. Also I was moving them forward a little so that made the lower plate hole line up over the larger frame down tube. A nut wouldn't fit from behind so I cut the head off another bolt and silicone glued it into the hole in the plate. This way I think it looks "correct" and original.
du907

get it, so that`s the trick

du907 wrote: Tamburinifan:
Here is a link in the USA. I have seen them on some European dealers sites also. http://www.eurotechmotorsports.com

Nice, but not cheap, though

http://www.eurotechmotorsports.com/form ... cttype=all

Again, du907, your mods are interesting.


1. How lower did you get w footplates mod?
2. And how much furter lower did the footpegsfrom there?

1. Footplates moved 3/4" (19.05mm) down and 7/8" (22.23mm) forward.
2. Footpegs 1.378" (35 mm) down and 1/2" (12.7mm) forward

Totals: 2.128" (54.05mm) down and 1.375" (34.93mm) forward

Thx!

Gonna be one of the two for me.

W the new pegs,
doesn`t it fel a bit odd to have your feet like an inch longet out from the bike?
No problemos w reaching brake lever?