Hello ,

This is my 1st post after many hours of reading all of this great info . Thank you to all who give to this forum .

I am the original owner of a '92 907ie (25,000 mi) . I am waking her up after a lengthy slumber and all has gone well ... until today .All of my questions are related to 'inside the tank' . I do have a tendency to 'overthink' things . Sorry .

The inside of the tank looks pretty good ... not much rust or any real visible clues as to the real health of everything in there . In retrospect , my attempt to start the bike without completely going through everything was in poor judgement . After I reinstalled the injectors after a rebuild/service , I turned the key and the pump did ..nothing . I checked for power at the connector under the tank , and all was well . One thing that I did notice was that when the key was turned , I would have power for about 5 seconds and then I would hear a click from what sounded like a relay (?) and then power would cease . This seemed to be consistent with how I remember it acted many years ago . So ...

1. After getting everything apart ... I hooked up the pump (with no lines attached , holding it in my hand) , and the darn thing shot fuel 10 feet across my shop . When I originally tried it , I had a hose on the 'output/supply' that led into a bucket . Why would the pump not operate then , but yet it did function normally after removal ? Even if the pump is/was fine , I get to buy another one because I broke the hose fitting off during removal . oops .

2. After complete dis-assembly I figured that making sure all of the hard lines in the tank were clear would be a good idea ... I noticed a couple of things that seemed odd.
A. the line that goes up to the bottom of the fuel cap is blocked . It will not accept air . Since the other vent line is clear ... my thinking is that as long as I do not overfill the tank I will be ok . Am I correct in this assumption ? The other vent line is fine .
B. I realize that the 'return' port on the bottom of the tank has a one-way valve in it that prevents all of the fuel from draining during tank removal . When I blow through that line into the tank using just my breath , it seems plugged . When I gently use an air hose it will allow air to pass . Does this seem normal ? I see that the fitting is removable . Maybe a good question would be ... what is the return line psi ?

3. I used a good quality fuel injection hose to make up all new lines on the engine . However , I wonder if being 'submerged' in the tank is ok . What type of hose is rated for that ? All of the vent lines are very thin-walled ... almost like a vacuum hose . What is appropriate here ?

4. The strainer that attaches to the bottom of the tank is in poor shape . Can anyone advise where I might get one . In the US preferably .

Thank you for your time .

JD

When the fuel pump doesn't run at switch on I'd be checking the electrics. particularly the 2 relays, before pulling the tank to bits.

For the fuel line you need submersible fuel hose to the same or similar spec to this :https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/rubber-in-tank-fuel-hose-by-cohline-per-metre-2190-0615
or this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Walbro-SUBMERSIBLE-Fuel-Line-5-16-hose-SAE-J30R10/281996225193?hash=item41a848eaa9:m:mm_mxy_fERv80QVHqqG-wbA
It tends to be expensive.

The line from the bottom of the filler cap is the drain. If it is blocked not only will overflowed fuel not drain away, neither will water from rain or when you wash the bike, with the end result that it will end up in the fuel tank causing rust and poor running if the pump picks it up. I found the drain on mine had blocked and it took me some time poking with a length of thin wire before I finally got it clear.

Hello and Thank you ,

I confirmed that I had power to the connector under the tank before I tore into it . Just judging by the condition of the hoses alone , I am glad to get a chance to 'make new' again .

Now if my hands were a bit smaller !!

The filter seems pretty generic , it fact it appears identical to one that I installed in my R1150RS last week . Is it anything special ?

JD

as Derek stated the spec of in-tank fuel lines is SAE J30R10
You can find more info in this file:
https://app.box.com/s/ut9pl8qs48zin0rbwf016cal8vtybvb2

A Mahle KL145 should do the job, same as used on many BMWs.

Thank you . I had a new BMW filter and am planning to use it .

I have a new 'strainer basket' , that lives at the bottom of the pump and a fuel sender/float(mine is about 1/2 full of fuel) coming from Stein Dinse . With those parts , and the new pump from Bevel Steve , I should be good . However ...

The vent tube that allows water (or fuel) to drain from the cap , is hopelessly plugged . I have tried many different sizes of wire and all seem to go in about the same length and then stop . It appears that it is the curve of the pipe that is prohibiting the wire from advancing , rather that the blockage itself .

I have filled the tube with a 'rust dissolver' and even tried some MEK . So far , I am stumped . I do see an opportunity to cut the tube in the tank , which would then give me a nice straight shot to run wire through ... but geez , that sure seems like a bit 'caveman' to me .

Any ideas ??

Thx , JD

I don't know if it is possible BUT some of the later bikes like the carbed 900ss have a stub in the base of the tank which a rubber hose connects to the other end of the hose connects to another stub on the vase of the fuel filler to drain away water and spillage.
It may be possible to cut the inner steel tube above and below the blockage and slip a rubber tube over the ends to provide a through passage. The tube has to be a good quality that will stand immersion and must be well clamped at the joints or the fuel will leak out of the tank.