Plates to move foot pegs?

[du907]

I'm getting old. My knees don't bend like they use to. Does anyone know about any way to lower the foot pegs or even move them forward. Maybe some kind of plate or adjustable rearset that will allow the adjustment of the foot pegs. Does someone make them commercially.
Thanks,
du907

[Tamburinifan]

Here is a type for ST2:





http://www.desmotimes.com/?utm_source=L ... esmo+Times.


Dunno if it fits but maybe easy to copy?

[Finnpaso]

Good mail from Gert! ....But if want to go to race track, then such have take out from bike....

[persempre907]

Good mail from Gert! ....But if want to go to race track, then such have take out from bike....

Of course....
But, not too bad in ordinary roads. I'm getting old, too .
Ciao

[Finnpaso]

Frankie, You are looking "another girls"(at least sometimes!!!!), so, You are not getting old..... So, You DONT NEED SUCH AT ALL....

[persempre907]

Frankie, You are looking "another girls"(at least sometimes!!!!), so, You are not getting old..... So, You DONT NEED SUCH AT ALL....

When we aren't looking anymore for girls, we are dead .

But when the bones become painful .

Besides, I have to move to the north. Here there is a cold winter (not -33 C, of course), wet and fog .

Ciao

[Finnpaso]

Here was already 42 cm snow(one very big snowstorm), but near all is smelted away, so now only ab. 3 cm and dry/ -2 C.... Normally we get snow(what stays till end march) for christmastime.

[davo]

Hi du907, I lowered my pegs for touring by 2 inches. Made a big difference. Ground clearance is still ok as I think they were mounted quite high in standard trim. I rode a VFR750, which boasted more leggroom according to the write ups, and it felt as good if not better than the Honda.
The left side, I made a plate using the original holes to mount it and then drilling 2 lower holes.
The right side, i made a peg bracket from scratch - bit of work! This also ment cutting a foot peg and re-mounting it to my fabricated piece.
The main consideration making all this, was the clearance to the staintunes. Which, in the end worked out no worries.
And of course I made some small adjustments to the gearshift linkage and footbrake actuator, but nothing to dramatic.

Hopefully this has helped, you maybe able to improve on this idea..................

PS. I have pictures if anyone is interested, but not sure how to attach them?

[Desmo_Demon]

I'm getting old. My knees don't bend like they use to. Does anyone know about any way to lower the foot pegs or even move them forward. Maybe some kind of plate or adjustable rearset that will allow the adjustment of the foot pegs. Does someone make them commercially.

I can think of two options.....If you are really serious about it, I can either take my Paso 750 bike over to my buddy's bike shop and have him cut some adapter plates, or.....you can ride your bike the 2-1/2 hours to his shop and have him cut them for you, if you make arrangements ahead of time. If you call him, tell him that Terry sent you.

You can contact Rick Cayce at Motorcycle Parts Plus in Mauldin, NC. He's done some work for me and he has a plasma cutter, so not only can he make some brackets, but he can even cut some cool designs in the metal, if you want. Here's a website I made for his shop...

http://www.desmodemon.com/motopartsplus/main.html

This is a bracket he burned for the Pingel electric shifter on my wife's GSXR....

[du907]

Great response everyone!
Desmo_Demon, davo, do you have pictures of your bikes? I figured an alum. plate with tappered screwheads so the original plate mounts could be installed with the origianl screws and moved to the appropriate position that would be determined. Adjustments for the shifting rod and brakes would have to be made as well as clearence from pipes etc.

[Desmo_Demon]

Desmo_Demon, davo, do you have pictures of your bikes? I figured an alum. plate with tappered screwheads so the original plate mounts could be installed with the origianl screws and moved to the appropriate position that would be determined. Adjustments for the shifting rod and brakes would have to be made as well as clearence from pipes etc.

I looked at my Paso yesterday or the day before. If you try to move the rearsets forward, there may be some concerns with the frame being in the way, which would mean you may have to move the rearsets down, forward, and outward. I do know that 748/916/996/998 rearsets have the same hole spacing, but was curious and discovered that the ST2/4 and 90's SS750/900 rearsets will not simply bolt onto the bike (mounting hole spacings are wider), so it's not like you could simply change rearsets with some other model. You are correct, though, there may be some concerns with the shifter rod and the rear brake if you move the rearsets too far, but I'm sure those issues can be easily compensated for with some ingenuity.

My Paso is fairly stock and is still running the original rearsets in their designed locations, but if you are interested in the saga of the Paso Project..... http://www.desmodemon.com/vicks_paso.html

[davo]

Hi du907,
Follow up to my privious reply: Footpegs lowered by 50mm or 2 inches.
I just noticed the entry by jcslocum `How to insert pictures`, so here they are.




This bracket I made, used the original mounting holes. It has a fold on one edge, just for strength. The gear shifter was adjusted to suit my usual position by adjusting the length of the connecting rod. From memory, I may have slipped the connecting rod bracket off the spline to get the shifter in the ball park first.
Also after I did this, another problem arose, the gear shifter arm hit the side stand.
So I made a side stand which tucked in closer to the frame rails.
I made it slightly longer, as I felt paso`s (owned 2)and 907`s (on my second one) allways leant over too far anyway.




This side was also a challenge. As the rear brake actuator was already close to the staintune, I made a `lowered foot peg`.
This involed starting from a solid block of steel and cutting a slot in the middle for the spring. Then i just shaped it similar to the original. To lower the peg itself, i welded on a piece of stainless steel (so it wouldn`t flex) to the block.
This was when I bought a spare foot peg off ebay.
I cut part of the peg off, where the spring goes through, just befor the rubber part. It had to cut at the correct angle to sit write on the flat piece of stainless.
I neally stuffed this part of the operation up........
The cut off peg was attached to the stainless extension by some metal screws drilled and tapped into the aluminium.
Another problem arose. To lower the foot brake arm to suit my usual position. I wasn`t going to achive this with the small adjustment on the actuator pin inside the slave cylinder. So I made a slightly shorter pin. I just copied the orginal using a piece of stainless rod the same diameter.

Sounds like a lot of work............It was.
But it was a labour of love!

Hope this helps to give you some ideas.

[du907]

Great pics. Exactly what I was looking for. Now I will have to come up with a similar way to fabricate my own. I especially like the way you did the left side, gear side. That is basically what I had envisioned it. I was thinking of using a aluminium plate there but the basic idea is the same.
Du907

[Finnpaso]

davo, tell to us more about Your wheels !!! Are they polished, or what??? What method You have used???? ..very courious!

[davo]

Hi Antti, the wheels were polished when I bought the bike. According to the chap, they were just stripped and polished.
How they were initially polished, I`m not sure. He said he had a friend who polished wheels.
Every so often I use an metal polish on a rag to clean them up. But they generally stay quite shiny.
I had intended to have them repainted back to orginal condition, but I still can`t make up my mind which I prefer, painted or polished.
I used to be unsure, but now now I`m just undecided.............................