Paso 750 clutch plate sequence

discussions specific to the 750 Paso

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Theo

Paso 750 clutch plate sequence

Post by Theo »

Hey guys can somebody tell me the correct sequence for installing the plates .Im alittle :confused: I read the Replacement procedure from Paso750 @yahoo.com but noticed I have 2 larger metal plates and two with marks punched on them that I know go first but where do the big ones go.

Any advice would be great
Thanks
Theo
Theo

az

Post by Theo »

Sorry guys ,what I was trying to ask was there are two thicker plates that are not listed on the microfiche or stated by other people in the Forum. So Im not sure if the clutch parts are correct or what order they should be in.

Thanks
Theo
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jcslocum
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Post by jcslocum »

The info is out there I have seen it. Read this and see if it's of any help:

http://tinyurl.com/bcpua

Found this too in my archive:

Clutch Replacement: 6 Jul 2001 from: "Gerhard" <paso750@yahoo.com>
Take all the screws from the cover out, take cover off., don't press the clutch lever ! (or piston will come to far out or even pop out - then you have a little problem ;-) Remove the 6 screws of the pressure plate and take the plate and the 6 springs underneath off. Remove the thin circle which is put on the edge of the clutch basket and which holds the last disc. remove all discs (all !) Put the new ones in. Start with a metal one (there should be 2 with a little mark punched on them (not the missing thing on the outer ring !) take that one of those first) then a double sided clutch plate then the second (with a mark) place it so it has the outer missing edge 1/4 turn away from the first disc (do this with the other discs also so there won't be a misbalance - don't ask me what the missing edge means ?!) then the second double clutch plate then go on metal plate / clutch disc (the other metal plates don't have this marked dot) ... then you have metal plate no.7 and following the thick one sided clutch plate. Put in the circlip (see that on the clutch basket there's a position which holds one end of the clip so it doesn't turn around - at least on my bike) put the springs back on, position the pressure plate, put the 6 screws back in, the cover back on, the screws in, ready - job done. (If you don't remove the pressure plate, you will be able to change the discs, but usually not to position the circlip at it's place). At last one should check if the clutch disengages. If not and you have two left hands you should have at least this done if you feel it is necessary.

ON PASO 1989

You put first (on the bottom)

3.5mm single-sided friction plate (friction outwards)
1.5mm curved plate: concave side outwards
3.0mm friction + 1.5mm driven x 5 lots
3.0mm friction

and the last

1.5mm curved plate: concave side inwards

ON PASO 1990

You put first (on the bottom)

3.5mm single-sided friction plate (friction outwards)
1.5mm curved plate: concave side inwards
2.5mm friction + 1.5mm driven x 6 lots
2.5mm friction

and the last

1.5mm driven

SINCE 1992 BY DUCATI

You put first (on the bottom)

1.5mm driven
1.5mm driven
2.5mm friction
1.5mm curved plate: concave side outwards
2.5mm friction + 1.5mm driven x 5 lots
2.5mm friction

and the last

1.5mm driven

Ducati say its better to put 1 driven instead of the single-sided friction plate
Theo

Clutch plates

Post by Theo »

Thanks Jon

Ill give this another try

Theo
speedtrifle

Paso 750 Clutch Plate sequence

Post by speedtrifle »

I've just bought a genuine 750 Paso clutch plate stack and there are definitely 14 plates of 4 different types, as per the parts manual posted elsewhere on this site, as follows:
2 x Thicker plain dished plate 41-067516530
6 x double sided friction plate 42-067616670
5 x thinner plain plate 43-066116530
1 x plain/friction plate 44-066516690.

According to Baines Racing the assembly order is as follows:

OUTSIDE
-+-Friction/Plain Plate (Friction side in)-+-
/--------Dished Plate (Dish facing IN------\
+++++++++ Friction Plate ++++++++++
------------------ Plain Plate -------------------
+++++++++ Friction Plate ++++++++++
------------------ Plain Plate -------------------
+++++++++ Friction Plate ++++++++++
------------------ Plain Plate -------------------
+++++++++ Friction Plate ++++++++++
------------------ Plain Plate -------------------
+++++++++ Friction Plate ++++++++++
------------------ Plain Plate -------------------
+++++++++ Friction Plate ++++++++++
\____Dished Plate (Dish facing OUT____/
INSIDE

Plain plates can be paired if you wish to increase the compression force, although in my opinion this reduces the amount of space available for the plates to separate.

I'm still unclear as to whether the dot indicates the concave or convex side of the dished plates so I'd advise checking with a straight edge.

Hope this helps.

Steve.
speedtrifle

Post by speedtrifle »

One further thing which occurs to me; in "Gerhard" <paso750@yahoo.com> 's notes he has a plain plate as the last one before fitting the circlip. If you were to do this you would then have a plain plate spinning against the circlip whenever you disengaged the clutch.

I think he may have his 'top' and 'bottom' mixed up as you definitely want the plate against the circlip to be stationary with respect to it, this plate being the combined friction/plain plate.

Hope this is clear,

Steve.
Theo

Clutch plate sequence

Post by Theo »

Thanks for the help Steve, I installed a stock clutch pack from BCM a few weeks ago. Its all I could find. They said the thicker plates were possibly just for spacing and none of the plates were concave. It seems to shift better now. But now with this info. I wil take it apart and check plates with a straight edge.

Thanks
Theo :thumbup:
speedtrifle

Post by speedtrifle »

Theo,

I replaced our clutch because of a dreadful squark and judder on engagement but after fitting the new plates in the order the old ones came out there was no change in behaviour. Hence my search for the correct details.

When I checked the old thicker plates with a straight edge I found that they were indeed very slightly dished but didn't have a centre punch mark anywhere on them.

I trust Baines' opinion as they have been in the business for quite a while, certainly when the Paso was a current model.

Regards,

Steve.
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paso750
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model: 750 Paso
year: 1987
Location: southern Germany

Post by paso750 »

Clutch Replacement: 6 Jul 2001 from: "Gerhard" <paso750@yahoo.com>
Take all the screws from the cover out, take cover off., don't press the clutch lever ! (or piston will come to far out or even pop out - then you have a little problem ;-) Remove the 6 screws of the pressure plate and take the plate and the 6 springs underneath off. Remove the thin circle which is put on the edge of the clutch basket and which holds the last disc. remove all discs (all !) Put the new ones in. Start with a metal one (there should be 2 with a little mark punched on them (not the missing thing on the outer ring !) take that one of those first) then a double sided clutch plate then the second (with a mark) place it so it has the outer missing edge 1/4 turn away from the first disc (do this with the other discs also so there won't be a misbalance - don't ask me what the missing edge means ?!) then the second double clutch plate then go on metal plate / clutch disc (the other metal plates don't have this marked dot) ... then you have metal plate no.7 and following the thick one sided clutch plate. Put in the circlip (see that on the clutch basket there's a position which holds one end of the clip so it doesn't turn around - at least on my bike) put the springs back on, position the pressure plate, put the 6 screws back in, the cover back on, the screws in, ready - job done. (If you don't remove the pressure plate, you will be able to change the discs, but usually not to position the circlip at it's place). At last one should check if the clutch disengages. If not and you have two left hands you should have at least this done if you feel it is necessary.
just as a sidenote. This was indeed posted from me. The listing about clutch disc order in different Paso models years was posted from a guy in France. Don`t know the source of that information. I didn`t come across it in the books and manuals I own.

G.
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wilbur
Posts: 70
Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 12:00 am
model: 750 Paso
year: 1987
Location: Port Murray, NJ

Post by wilbur »

I just purchased a Ducati clutch pack for the Paso, using part#19020022A. The following plates are included.

2 x plain dished plates, the ones with the dot
2 x thicker plain plates(thicker than dished plates)
3 x plain plates(same thickness of the dished plates)
6 x double sided friction plates
1 x plain/friction plate

Anyone know the order with this setup? :roll: Where do the thicker plain plates go? :confused:

There seems to be two different orders here on the plates. I have not seen the clutch in the bike yet so I don't know if they are the same as what I'm holding in my hand.
Thanks

Tim
Port Murray, NJ
1987 Ducati 750 Paso
1995 Ducati 900SS SP
1999 Ducati 996
1998 ST2
2000 Honda RC51
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jcslocum
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Posts: 1714
Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2004 12:00 am
model: 750 Paso
year: 1988
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Post by jcslocum »

Tim,

You will probably figure it out when you utake the old one out. There is plenty of conflicting info out there.

Have you joined the local Ducati Club? We are having out Holiday party in 10 days.

http://www.desmoducati.org
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wilbur
Posts: 70
Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 12:00 am
model: 750 Paso
year: 1987
Location: Port Murray, NJ

Post by wilbur »

Jon,

Thanks for the heads up on the Holiday Party. :thumbup: I did not know about the local Ducati Club. Very nice! I will definately join and may just show up for the party. It sounds like fun. I'll know more in a couple of days.

By the way, my clutch came from Rockwell Cycles. Long story but I'll make it short. My local Ducati dealer (Rizzon Cycles) is no longer a dealer but they can get parts. I know the guy behind the parts counter (Mark) well so he orders my parts without a deposit which is nice. Little did I know they just order them from Rockwell Cycles. I think next time I will call them up directly. Who is the person to talk to up there at Rockwell Cycles?

As far as the clutch plates go, when I get to it I'll post the order here.

Thanks again!
Thanks

Tim
Port Murray, NJ
1987 Ducati 750 Paso
1995 Ducati 900SS SP
1999 Ducati 996
1998 ST2
2000 Honda RC51
PascoPaso

Post by PascoPaso »

So I read this and the other discussions on this topic, plus I read a few external links as well. Most of my questions were answered, but a few more things came up. Then I also found a serious problem with my clutch when I went to replace the discs.

Questions first. My clutch pack arrangement seemed to work best in the original Paso sequence. Although I will "tinker" with the sequence some more in order to get the feel I like, smooth, quick, and no judders.

One question that I have is can the outside ring closest to the slave cylinder be a 1.5mm driven ring or must it be one with the tabs on the outside? As it is now the single friction 3.5 mm rests on the large c clip? If no, could I substitute a 3.0 mm two sided friction with the exterior tabs on the outside for the 3.5mm and then arrange a stack that adds up to the 32mm total thickness that is in Paso's?

Now here is my serious problem. The original face plate on the clutch pack, the thing that the clutch slave piston pushes to disengage the clutch from the engine-trans, broke loose and is spinning in the hole. So I managed to get another "used" one, and it had the same problem but was welded back together! Should work ok? Nope. The pin is not aligned so the whole thing rotates out of round on the pack.

What do you guys recommend? Machine a custom part? New part? Weld the pin from which side with brass or wire feed and hope it rotates true?

Thanks, Mark
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jcslocum
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Post by jcslocum »

The button us broken?

I have one and can meaure it up if you want to have one made.
PascoPaso

Post by PascoPaso »

I have two of the pressure plates with the button. Both buttons have broken loose were the four small factory tack welds are. Each one has been welded on the clutch pack side. The original one from the bike I had it welded the other day. Both of them are not true, or on center from the edge. As this spins with the rpm of the motor I would think it should be within a certain degree of tolerance from center.

I was hoping someone else had this problem and solved it. I am leaning towards a custom made part. Thanks for the offer Jon, your offer is much appreciated. The good news is now I have a complete extra Elefant Pantah motor and most of the parts interchange. Ha! I like kick starters, maybe I will someday use it in something, LOL!

The Paso went 200km Friday, started out ok, then started to take too long to engage on dead stop launches. I will take it apart for the third time and see what happened today.

Thanks again Jon.
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