Speedo/Tach cables ... same thing?

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paso750
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Re: Speedo/Tach cables ... same thing?

Post by paso750 »

or in the documents section of the main page.
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plasmid
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Re: Speedo/Tach cables ... same thing?

Post by plasmid »

fasterdammit wrote:Now why I hadn't I seen that before now? sigh ...

Thanks, G. Saving my butt like usual.

Parts catalogue, for those looking for it, located among other gems in the Paso magazine articles and other downloads thread.

Heads up on Stein Dinse.

They might lose the parts you order,
they might send you a different part than on the site, or a defective part,
and if you're not in Germany you will be stuck with the problem.

Since they moved, their service is absolutely abysmal. Communication - almost
2 weeks to respond to an email and so on.

If a problem surfaces as a result of their actions, they will expect you to pay for resolving it,
especially if you're not in Germany.

If you're used to the usual US customer service that is constructive and looks for a solution,
look elsewhere, because with the exception of 1-2 people who are not in the upper management,
they're a nightmare.
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fasterdammit
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Re: Speedo/Tach cables ... same thing?

Post by fasterdammit »

eesh. Well, hopefully, since I'm going through a proxy (MG Cycle) that won't be a problem ...
Just because you're not dead doesn't necessarily mean you're living, either.
1988 Paso 750 #753965
1997 Monster 750
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paso750
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Re: Speedo/Tach cables ... same thing?

Post by paso750 »

In all the years I didn`t have any negative experiences with SD and if there was something to clarify I`d do it via telephone not email ;)
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plasmid
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Re: Speedo/Tach cables ... same thing?

Post by plasmid »

paso750 wrote:In all the years I didn`t have any negative experiences with SD and if there was something to clarify I`d do it via telephone not email ;)

I didn't have problems with them before. After they moved they're completely abysmal.

Secondly you're German and in Germany. Dif. scenario.
See what happens when they ship you the wrong part or a defective part and you're not in Germany.


If they don't answer their phone calls and you want a written record of their countless promises
that are not fulfilled, you will write an email.


And, anyway, as you recall there was a problem when you wanted me to buy that part for you with your discount.
We ran into the usual Stein-Dinse 'mentality' = absurd, illogical, robotic, and completely counter-productive.

Countless phone calls to try to resolve something a normal company would have resolved in 5 seconds
and would have been glad to have an order for a higher amount.

But that's Stein-Dinse. More exactly their upper management.


Personally, I had to appeal to my credit card company to resolve the issue,
and we were one step away from a lawsuit.

Some of their employees are absolutely ok and solution oriented if a problem occurs,
but their upper management and Lena Stein have been destructive and counter productive.

If you're not in Germany and there is an alternative, buy somewhere else,
because if a problem occurs, you'll be faced with abysmal customer service
and you will be expected to pay for their mistakes.
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Derek
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Re: Speedo/Tach cables ... same thing?

Post by Derek »

I just bought a new speedo cable for my 907 from Mdina Italia in the UK. http://www.mdinaitalia.co.uk/cgi-bin/co ... egory=BTIN
They had one in stock but it couldn't be found, so new batch was ordered and they had one to me in less than a fortnight.
I tried first tried, through my very helpful parts guy at Ducati Glasgow, to find a suitable alternative but none of the currently available cables from Ducati are long enough (Monster, SS, ST, 748/916).
1994 907ie
2017 Supersport 939
2015 Scrambler Classic
1982 Pantah 500SL (now sold)


Scotland
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fasterdammit
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Re: Speedo/Tach cables ... same thing?

Post by fasterdammit »

Just to make things funny (more ironic than ha-ha), now my speedometer has stopped working. So yesterday I went to pull both cables off the bike, and they both appear to be fine. :( Actually, the speedo cable looks a little mangled at one end, but the tach cable is fine. It appears the tachometer itself has quit; I can't get the needle to budge even a little, spinning it by hand. It was a little depressing yesterday morning, on my way to work, to see that the only functioning gauge was the fuel gauge. (The oil temp works ... sort of). And since I like my tach more than I like my speedo, I'm looking for a new gauge cluster ... I do have a line on one. The good news is this one appears to have its mounting studs intact. (Upgrade bonus!) LOL
Just because you're not dead doesn't necessarily mean you're living, either.
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paso750
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Re: Speedo/Tach cables ... same thing?

Post by paso750 »

Remove the instrument panel, then remove and check the angle drives at the back. They should be slightly greased.
When they are removed try to spin the instruments directly to see if they are really not reacting.
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Re: Speedo/Tach cables ... same thing?

Post by fasterdammit »

G - you're the reason I dig further into things than I thought I should. ;) But ultimately, worst case, I find another one if need be, which I thought I might have to do anyway.

So, it appears the worm gear slipped off the back of the tach drive shaft. Everything in there is lightly greased, and I don't really see any abnormal wear. However, something has happened to the index spring on the tach needle; as soon as relieved the tension on the gears, the tach's needle sprung forward. Initially to about 5k, but I've tried 'unwinding' the needle to expand the spring, and it's now dialed to about ~1.5k. I worry that excessive unwinding will damage the tension spring so that it will no longer count revs accurately.

Edit: I answered my own question, which originally appeared in this next paragraph (answer to follow):
I don't see any means to re-index the needle to zero, unless someone wishes to confirm for me that you can safely pop the needle off the shaft & reposition it? Or, do I need to separate the metal input shaft assembly from the white plastic spring/needle assembly and attempt to adjust from there?
On second thought, nevermind. I was able to grip the plastic section of the indicator shaft in between the tension spring, and the backside of the gauge face, and manually tweak the needle's base so that it points to 0 be default. I'm not convinced that it's going to give me an accurate reading (I'll forever question that tension spring now) but at least it will appear accurate at rest. ;) We'll see, once I fire it back up.
Just because you're not dead doesn't necessarily mean you're living, either.
1988 Paso 750 #753965
1997 Monster 750
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