Having a Nightmare with electrics.

[englishstiv]

Okay folks

This is really starting to pee me off now

Bike is being rebuilt.

Electrics all attached as removed and on initial refit everything worked.

Couple of weeks later and nothing was working except lots of clicks at various switch points etc.

Swapped the Regulator ( thank you Derek )

Still having nothing so stripped down and checked all fittings and re-attached.

Nothing !!!

So what I have now is this scenario.

Key in no lights but ticking and working clock.

Turn on - no lights and a few switch clicks and the clock stops ticking.

Second position same as above.

Turn key one click opposite direction from key in same as above.

Whats fried?

Battery is correctly fitted and earth is correct, all fuses intact none have blown... ever.

If it was toy I'd thrown the whole bloody thing in the bin by now.

Any ideas I'm off to Budapest for a small holiday so you have a week , please, please, please discuss I need to sort this out.

[higgy]

stator issues

[paso750]

was the frame painted ? If so were all ground points cleaned to bare metal. Ground connection issues can have the weirdest effects.
If that`s not it something is probably connected wrong. Fuses don't always blow if there`s a short.
Were there any modifications done to the wiring loom?

[englishstiv]

Frame was repainted and yes all relevant earth points cleaned back to bare metal. The wire loom is bog standard and I have no alterations to the lights etc and anywhere on the loom as far as I can see and from the service manual.

triple checked the relevant gear neutral light and side stand etc that is okay.

No oil light or other indication lights.

None of the lights, turn indicators or bulbs work anywhere.

All wires are plugged into their respective correct opposing connections.

Just that bloody clock - ticking around ! ! ! ! Like Captain Hook's Crocodile ?

Totally flummoxed me this has

[nickta]

Start disconnecting things, other than the Headlight and the dash. Did you tie the loom back to the frame with cable ties? Measure all the 12v points through the loom, at various plugs and sockets to their respective earths in the plug/socket. When all else fails, start plugging in each plug/socket combo. When the lights go out (literally) you will have found the issue.

I had an issue with a fire alarm in the last week or 2. It turned out the cabling to one of the sensors had a tiny nick in it, about 2mm long. Moisture had got into the nick and corroded the wire from the inside. It all looked normal, but for a small amount of discolouration at the stripped end of the wire. The wiring on the 907 is getting on for 20 odd years old, so there may be odd things going on under the sleaving and insulation. An over tight cable tie could be causing all sorts of problems!

Cheers.

Nick.

[englishstiv]

thank you Nick

On this occasion I have already checked through the loom and at this stage it has not yet been cable strapped to the frame because of these issues appearing before I got that far. this is the most frustrating thing about it.

[nickta]

Hmm, the thing that stands out is the clock stops ticking when the ignition key is turned to On. 12 volts from the 25 Amp fuse goes direct to the clock when the ignition switch is off (and all other times). Looking at the Colour Wiring diagram it goes into the dash on Pin 1 of the 6 pin connecter on the Orange wire. The 12 volts from that fuse also goes to one of the "ON" contacts of the Ignition switch (on the Blue wire) through the Ignition switch and back out on the Brown/Black wire, and back to the Fuse box to the 2 * 15 Amp fuses in the fuse block. Back probe the Orange wire on the Dash with the ignition off and 12 volts should be there. Turn on the Ignition and if it disappears pull both the 15 Amp fuses mentioned above. If its still gone, the Ignition switch has collapsed inside. If the clock starts ticking again, the problem is after the fuses. Put the 15 Amp fuse back in that is next to the 25 Amp fuse (it has the least amount hanging off it) and see what happens to the clock. No ticking, problem almost solved. If it keeps ticking, more things to check. Unplug both handlebar switches too, and to be a little safe, unplug the ECU. That is about 95% of where the switched 12 volts goes to. Plug back things back in one at a time to see what causes the clock to stop.

Have you done the Ignition switch Relay mod? Not unheard of a relay shorting out internally.

Cheers.

Nick.

[englishstiv]

Thank you Nick have now got somewhere and something to mull over and to start with, will look at this next weekend on return from Budapest.

Have not modified the starter relay as of yet.

Any other ideas welcome.

Could the ECU be fried in any way?

[nickta]

Power to the ECU comes through the Kill Switch on the RHS bar controls. If the kill switch isn't in the run position, the ECU is just sitting there like a stale bottle of beer. Once it powers up, it turns on Relays and powers up other bits an pieces. It could be fried, but disconnecting it from the Switch gear is more to protect it in case it isn't.

The voltage going to the Clock should indicate what's wrong. It may not drop to 0 volts, but may float at something in between 0 and 12 volts. This may affect things down the track, like the ECU.

If I had to tip something remotely, I think I would go with the Ignition switch.

Cheers.

Nick.

[higgy]

usually what goes wrong with the ECU is the fuel pump circuit blows a diode.
Are you missing a ground wire at the battery ? there should be two, the big one and a little one for the headlights.

[Derek]

The clock should be supplied with 12V at all times. A fault on one of the other circuits could pull the voltage down but to pull it down enough to stop the clock would almost definitely blow a fuse.
The clock is supplied by the 25A fuse which also feeds, via the blue wire, the ignition switch. When the ignition switch is ON the brown wire supplies the two 15A fuses which in turn supply all the other circuits on the bike.
A high resistance between the battery and the junction of the orange and blue wires (ignore the black/violet wire to the fan) will allow a high enough voltage to allow the clock to operate but the higher load from the rest of the circuits when the key is turned will cause the voltage to drop. In this case very drastically so that the clock stops and nothing works.
Pull out the 25A fuse and check for corrosion on the blades. If I'm correct they will probably be white and powdery.

[nickta]

I meant to ask, what is the age and condition of the battery? Have you load tested the battery out of the bike?

Cheers.

Nick.

[Mc tool]

Got the wiring harness plugs in the back of the dash in the right holes , and don't just assume that because your not supposed to be able to you havn't................................I aint sayin' no more

[angelix]

OK, to be safe start disconnecting the ECU, all the electrics except the fuel pump should work anyways.

Then, are all grounds and positive cables connected? on my 907 I have 2 grounds and 3 positives connected to the battery.


The other thing is the connectors around the headlight... I know some "old" wiring looms (Ducati, not necessarly 907/Paso) have interchangeable connectors, meaning that you can actually swap the kill switch connector with another one causing everything to stop working.... or to burn! how do I know? well my SS-Special nearly costed me a laboratory when it caught fire because I swapped two connectors... and the beaty oif the whole thing is that by swapping the connectors somehow all the fuses were bypassed and the whole wiring loom became RED then melted causil all the plastics co catch fire and only when I managed to cut the barrey wires I could put the fire down; when i think of it I am still terrified, I had a temporary fuel tank connected to the bike just hanging from the cealing.

I would re-trace all the connectors and make sure everything is as it should; then look for all the connections at the battery, I got sort of crazi with my Monster loom when i could not understand why all electrics stopped working after a change of battery only to discover I missed one of the grounds.

[englishstiv]

Many, many thanks folks it would appear that I had a faulty earth lead on the loom. Initial fault finds appeared after I did a bit of wigglin.
Huge thanks folks after a wonderful week in Budapest today has been a very pleasant end to the week. Now I can start concentrating on prep and repainting the panels..