Replacing clutch slave piston

[PasoRoo]

Hi All,

During a recent ride the clutch on my Paso was making noise. Pulling away from traffic lights was a slow affair and the clutch felt really juddery. I have taken off the clutch cover and checked whether the piston is turning freely in the bearing. I can feel a few slight notches, so I guess it is best to replace the slave.

I have purchased a piston set from Dreamvee in Germany (I know G, not the cheapest option but my local ducati dealer is hopeless in getting any Paso parts. And I did make sure to order the 26mm one).

My main question is: how do I go about replacing the piston with the new one? Is this a question of pushing the old one out with the pressure from the clutch lever and dropping the new one in? As always. your advice is greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Mike

[paso750]

the alternative is not a Paso part and with the order number that is available in the FAQs any dealer can order it.
However, yes press out the old piston until it pops out. Do that over a bucket or so as some fluid will come out. If it gets over the cover clean it with a wet rag or sponge as it may etch the paint.
Put some brake fluid on the O-ring and press the new piston in, slightly rotating it may help.

As you have the cover off you can immedetely bleed the system. Open the covers bleeding valve and fill up the clutch pump. Hold up the clutch cover with your right and keep your thumb on the piston. Then pump a few times until fluid comes out the valve. Close valve. Fill up again (put pump cover on and wrap pump with a rag, wet or dry). Pump (you know from the old piston when it popped out so don`t pump too long) and hold, then let loose and slowely press the piston back in with your thumb (keep it on the piston the whole time you`re bleeding). Repeat a few times and some air will go up to the clutch pump (therefore it`s wrapped in a rag, you wouldn`t want brake fluid on fairing or instrument cover). Then bleed normally after you put the clutch cover back on the bike and refilled the pump if necessary. I normally also remove the left steering half so I can hold it a bit in angle so the highest point isn`t the joint of clutch line to clutch pump as often air gets blocked there. Some guys go mad bleeding the clutch, this always worked for me and the little more effort removing clutch cover and steering half is worth it.

G.

[PasoRoo]

Knowledgable as always!

Thanks,

Mike

[Mc tool]

Yeah ! the clutch can be a bitch to bleed . I used a large syringe ( horse sized ) and a lenght of tube to pump the fluid "backwards " thru the open bleed nipple and up to the master cylinder . I started with the system empty and pumped fluid up untill the resivior had the correct level and then closed everything .As stated by Paso 750 the handle bar must be removed to eliminate the air trap at the hose / cylinder union.
A juddery clutch can be caused by oil contamination . If your clutch plates have sticky black stuff on them it is almost certainly leaking oil at one or both oil seals .It takes an almost imperceptable leak to cause problems . Hint :thumbup:If checking these seals, Dont blow out dust untill you have removed the clutch , then use compressed air and if the dust doesnt blow away .... its wet ... change the seals . if it is all nice and dry in there replace the seals , coz its easily done and cheap and your right there. My paso had done 67,000k's and the seals were leaking enough to cause a juddery , grabby clutch ( as I explained to the officer " if I try to take off slowly it just stalls ".... we didnt mention the webber ).

[88WhitePaso750]

I will be working on the same thing. My 88 Paso greeted me this morning with this!!! Looking for Quad ring (X ring) ordering info from US vendor, or possibly a vendor for new slave cylinder.

[Mc tool]

If you are going to replace slave piston have a look in the faq re the fitting of a 900ss slave piston assy , berring and button , a much better setup

[88WhitePaso750]

A little steel wool and a new Viton o-ring and the slave cylinder is back in the bike and working great.

Now looking to find at least 1, and possible also a spare DRUM CLUTCH NUT LOCK WASHER. This is the stamped sheet metal piece with the tab the goes in the hole in the clutch center and then folds over to lock the nut.

Does anyone have a source for this part?????

[fasterdammit]

Now looking to find at least 1, and possible also a spare DRUM CLUTCH NUT LOCK WASHER. This is the stamped sheet metal piece with the tab the goes in the hole in the clutch center and then folds over to lock the nut.

Does anyone have a source for this part?????

This is where I am, at the moment. Mine's ruined. Part's no longer available through Ducati, and the local shops have no such thing. Talked to two local machine shops who could make one, for maybe $100. If I wanted 50 of them it might cost $150, but it's that first one that's the doozy.

So, Plan B? Lock-Tite? Double-nut? Both?

[Mc tool]

Sounds like your bike shop aint big on helping out . There have been millions of those washers put on just about every bike ever made ( specially from Japan ). Get your old one for an example and go look for something close of a Japper . Tabs can be re-bent and holes filed slightly bigger if needed........and if it all fails just make one ...... doesn't have to look pretty , just needs a hole for the shaft , a tab to fold up against the nut , and with the new washer in place simply punch the washer into the hole in the clutch drum to form a tab
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cagiva-Mito-Pla ... cd&vxp=mtr
.
I know this aint the right one but it could be made to fit ?, but there are heaps on ebay that might do the trick I searched for " Ducati clutch lock washer " :)http://www.ebay.com/itm/DUCATI-750-900- ... WH&vxp=mtr

[angelix]

come on!!!

these are called TAB WASHERS and I bet that any garage/shop (I mean ANY, cars, Tractors, lawnmovers, etc) will have a box full of these used (but reusable) and new.

Often they are used in brake hubs, flywheels, Pulleys and gear shafts, in fact I think the Old Ducatis have at least 5 or 6 scattered across the cranck case.

Online there are specialists selling only Tab washers and I am sure there will be one fiting perfectly the Paso.

Another route is to call one of the Ducati specialists and I bet they will send you a handful for 5 quid.

The first very passionate that springs to my mind in the US is Ed Milich , he know Dukes (and Guzzis) inside out http://www.ducpower.com/

The other option is to go to a bodywork shop and ask for a piece of any car wing or bonnet , then remove all the paint with a blowtorch or on the cooker... cut drill *& file and voila', Tab washer done!. The Steel used on the car bodywork should be of the right thickness for the aplication.

[fasterdammit]

come on!!!

Right?!

There are a handful of tractor supply and even specialist fastener shops in the area, so trust me - I looked. I didn't think it would be this big of a deal either. Maybe it's because the reps were only looking for an "exact match" - but none of them professed to carry such a beast. I was just going to hammer one out myself, but then G pointed me in the direction of a NOS one on ebay. After this point, hopefully I shouldn't need to touch it again.

My favorite mechanic (and one-time Paso owner & Ducati racer) mentioned that just using the busted washer & a drop of red Lock-Tite would be just fine too.