New member - in need of some advice ...

Frank.61 · **Posted:** Wed Nov 18, 2015 11:29 am

Frank.61 wrote:

Have mounted my engine on the engine stand and now I want to clean it quickly and then remove the cilinder heads and cilinders/pistons.
To dismantle the cilinder heads, do I need specific tools (apart from the tool to remove the belt pulley)? :?:

Want to dismantle the heads and get them mediablasted before a fresh respray and overhaul (hopefully only new valve guides are necessary .....).
Will ask a Ducati specialist to do the new valve guides, general inspection and set the valve clearance).
PLEASE let it be o.k. this time, sofar all parts that could be worn were! :zip:

O yeh, the rubber disks between the cooling fins, do I have to place them back after I have painted the cilinders/heads?
Assume it is only to reduce noise level (a necessity to meet the legal demands) but I have no idea if it makes a huge difference .....
The rubber disks are hardened and me intention is not to use them anymore (my wife's Monster 796 doesn't use them either).

Let's hear it ....

Frank

Anyone?????

englishstiv · **Posted:** Wed Nov 18, 2015 3:01 pm

It's a personal choice, if you are showing it somewhere you might get a gripe but doubt many would care, as the heads are fairly standard you actually be able top get new replacements

Quote:

Similarly, there have been a lot of questions regarding removal of the rubber blocks in the air runners of later year bikes. Again, these blocks incorporate a nice smooth venturi that simply accelerate the flow through them on the way to the airbox but are designed to restrict airflow very little. They really don't hurt anything if you leave them in. Their purpose is to reflect sound waves so as to reduce induction noise to achieve overall legal limits.

MarkST · **Posted:** Sun Feb 07, 2016 3:24 pm

Hi Frank, I've just discovered your very interesting thread !!

Any movement on this ?

Cheers,

Mark.

Brutus · **Posted:** Mon Feb 08, 2016 12:59 pm

Hej Frank, spring is commin..

Frank.61 · **Posted:** Sat Aug 27, 2016 7:18 am

Hi,

I'm working now on the electrical side (to be honest not my forte).
Have decided to change the original R/R for a Shindengen serie R/R (SH755).
This mainly since I like the operating principle (just "burning" redundant energy, what a shunt regulator does, doesn't feel right to me as a mechanical engineer).
The several posts from Higgy on this topic convinced me to not only change to a mosfet R/R but also to go from shunt to serie.
The fact that also the stator will run cooler, due to a lower load gives me a quiet feeling (all that extra torque will improve my 0-60 mph figures! ) :lol:

I have been studying the factory wiring schedule (big thanks to DESMO_DEMON) but what I would like to know is: the new R/R has 1 plus and 1 mass conection, should I connect the GR-BK with the red wire and leave the B for what it is? :?:

I assume the bleu is for the battery charge warning light and will not function anymore? :fart:

Aside: why are there different versions of the 750 stators?
Mine has 3 wires (although I think mine has 3 yellow wires and not 2 yellow and 1 yellow/red) but if correct some have also a 2 wire stators.

Hope someone can advise me on the wiring (output side R/R and the dashboard warning light). :phone:

Have a nice weekend! :beer:

(32 degrees celcius here in Italy)

Frank

nickta · **Posted:** Sat Aug 27, 2016 9:10 am

It's 32 degC here everyday! Even in winter/the dry.

Cheers.

Nick

New member - in need of some advice ...

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