Check Water Pump

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Whiff Ducbreath
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model: 907 I.E.
year: 1992
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Check Water Pump

Post by Whiff Ducbreath »

Ciao Ducatisti

I just replaced my starter. I have ridden it twice and both times it has overheated. The temperature gauge goes to about 80% of maximum and the cooling fan is activated for 5 or 6 minutes after I turn off the bike. The Temp gauge usually stays to 50-60% maximum unless stuck in traffic. It has coolant. How do I check the water pump? Is there anything that changing the starter could effect the water pump? Any help appreciated.

This is the greatest support group for any motorcycle I have ever come across. My 907ie would be a useless pile of junk if it were not for the wealth of information available collectively from this group.

If I have to replace the pump, where is the best place to buy a replacement. I have had little luck in rebuilding Ducati parts.

Thank Everyone Again
Russell Brown
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paso750
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Re: Check Water Pump

Post by paso750 »

I wonder if the thermostat is opening.
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englishstiv
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Re: Check Water Pump

Post by englishstiv »

Check that your fan is actually attached to the fan spindle, I use waterless coolant and only realised the problem when I had the fan running for over five minutes after a run. Only when I checked did I realise issue http://forums.ducatipaso.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7374

I would also check and test the thermostat and also the connection to it.

the pumps themselves are pretty robust also have you got the bottle cap screwed on correctly or possibly an air lock ?
DUCATI 907ie 1992
HARLEY DAVIDSON ELECTRA GLIDE CLASSIC 1991
Mc tool
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model: 906 Paso
year: 1990
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Re: Check Water Pump

Post by Mc tool »

To check the water pump and to verify the drive to it , its probly best to remove it . The pump ( if its not leaking out the tell tale hole at the bottom ) really only needs the bearings checked and make sure all the impeller fins are intact and that the drive end and the impeller end are firmly attached. Sounds more like a t/stat to me , or maybe an air lock but , whilst being fiddly to fill up I don't recall the engine being prone to air locks :)................there is a bleed screw on the pump housing :)
I wish I was young again............Id be heaps smarter than last time
nickta
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model: 907 I.E.
year: 1992
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Re: Check Water Pump

Post by nickta »

Is it possible you didn't line up the drive to the water pump when you removed/replaced the Starter Motor? To get the starter motor out, you would need to remove the Alternator cover. The cover also has the Water pump in it. From memory there is a slot to line up on the Water pump shaft to the drive off the flywheel etc?

Cheers.

Nick.
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Derek
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year: 1994
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Re: Check Water Pump

Post by Derek »

I don't think you'd get the cover on if the slot isn't lined up with the impeller shaft. It will sit proud of face by about 3-4mm.
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Whiff Ducbreath
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model: 907 I.E.
year: 1992
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Re: Check Water Pump

Post by Whiff Ducbreath »

I finally took my entire cooling system apart and my thermostat was stuck shut. Thanks everybody for all the mostly correct comments. At least I learned how my cooling system works. Now if I can put it back together without it squirting water everywhere.
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du907
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Re: Check Water Pump

Post by du907 »

Get that water pump shaft to line up. It's a little tricky.
While you have the cover off, loosen up the big nut holding the rotor onto the crank shaft. Then re-torque it to factory specs. This is a standard shop thing to do whenever the cover is off. Trust me, you want to do this. I had to have my engine rebuilt after the rotor split and locked up my engine on the track going way to fast. Evidently the nut can tighten over time and cause the rotor to crack.
du907
Mc tool
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Re: Check Water Pump

Post by Mc tool »

du907 wrote:Get that water pump shaft to line up. It's a little tricky.
While you have the cover off, loosen up the big nut holding the rotor onto the crank shaft. Then re-torque it to factory specs. This is a standard shop thing to do whenever the cover is off. Trust me, you want to do this. I had to have my engine rebuilt after the rotor split and locked up my engine on the track going way to fast. Evidently the nut can tighten over time and cause the rotor to crack.
du907
Excellent tip :) I can see how that could piss you off.
Before I got all Paso-knowledgeable :roll: and heard about this , I had occasion to remove the rotor ,not only was the rotor nut unbelievably tight but the rotor itself on the taper was so tight I had to use the hydraulic puller and when it did let go it came flyin' over the bench towards me , puller and all :)
I wish I was young again............Id be heaps smarter than last time
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