Re: still having issues
Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2014 1:23 pm
Could be anything, starting from a dodgy connection to something more mechanical.
start ruling out the electrics proceeding per grades:
- check the battery connections, to and from, clean them from oxyde and fit them with a little grease (I had a "sneeze" on my 907 and was the battery POSITIVE Oxydized!!!!!)
- check all connectors for play and oxidation, refit with connectors grease
- check ALL grounds take them out, clean, put them back with connectors grease
- check the KEY SWITH , they get loose and with the vibration they start to heat up and create circuits breaks.
- check the EMERGENCY STOP SWITCH , The loom tends to short where it meets the switch
- do you have the DIGIPLEX or the Modules? you have to borrow separate sets from someone and check if the problem is there.
Mechanical...
have you checked compression? maybe one valve is burned and there you have the back fire and the sputter.
FUEL
The carbs must be synched properly, only with a meter you will see that; They are chap or you can make your own meter using two plastic bottles and some clear pipe.
Plugs
replace them, years ago I got crazy with an old BMW I was restoring, everything was new and properly set and still it would backfire and eventually one cilinder would die, I then fond out that for some reason one of the spark plugs (new out of the box) was the culprit.
start ruling out the electrics proceeding per grades:
- check the battery connections, to and from, clean them from oxyde and fit them with a little grease (I had a "sneeze" on my 907 and was the battery POSITIVE Oxydized!!!!!)
- check all connectors for play and oxidation, refit with connectors grease
- check ALL grounds take them out, clean, put them back with connectors grease
- check the KEY SWITH , they get loose and with the vibration they start to heat up and create circuits breaks.
- check the EMERGENCY STOP SWITCH , The loom tends to short where it meets the switch
- do you have the DIGIPLEX or the Modules? you have to borrow separate sets from someone and check if the problem is there.
Mechanical...
have you checked compression? maybe one valve is burned and there you have the back fire and the sputter.
FUEL
The carbs must be synched properly, only with a meter you will see that; They are chap or you can make your own meter using two plastic bottles and some clear pipe.
Plugs
replace them, years ago I got crazy with an old BMW I was restoring, everything was new and properly set and still it would backfire and eventually one cilinder would die, I then fond out that for some reason one of the spark plugs (new out of the box) was the culprit.