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Posted: Sat Nov 25, 2006 8:31 pm
by Kasman
I have changed oil, filter, belts and battery a week ago.
Costs where about 65,00 Euro's and 90 for the battery.
The oil I did use is from Castrol TRW 10W60 full synthetic.
Only one thing was strange - I couldn't get 3.5L in the engine.
When I had put in 3L the MAX was already pased
Posted: Sat Nov 25, 2006 9:12 pm
by Finnpaso
Ducman wrote:
I bet 90W would be real quiet LOL
The weight of the oil has nothing to do with its ability to perform better
I think, ALL these NEW fully synthetic oils can do they job, no matter, what is brand, but i have read sooo much about this viscosity of oils in very many MC chats and magazines and I am ONLY happy to go 15W-50 in my all Ducatis. U can put 120W or water to Your Ducati engine, i really dont care about that at all, but i only wanted to say, where Ducati guys are going.... I know so many of them and so many have changed to 15W-50 after using some "water"(10W-40) inside engine.... water is not so good to engine.... "water" can function, if trips are short and engine cant reach enough high temperatures, but in my case, i drive long distances and engine is running high temps(and high rpms also) long time, then surely higher viscosity is better to me... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: ... and gearchange is quiter.... :funny: :funny: :funny:
Posted: Sat Nov 25, 2006 9:20 pm
by Finnpaso
Kasman wrote:
Only one thing was strange - I couldn't get 3.5L in the engine.
When I had put in 3L the MAX was already pased
Propably U didnt fill Your oilfilter, BEFORE U put it on??? I allways fill new oil filter before take it to its place.... When that filter element gets that way "wet", it start to pass also oil much faster, what is very important in Ducati engine, cause it takes so long time for new oil to go to sylinder heads.... U should run engine after first filling and look again oil level ! BUT NEVER WITH HIGH RPMS after changing oil before engine gets warm!!!!
Posted: Sun Nov 26, 2006 8:37 pm
by Kasman
Can you tell me what the numbers are saying Finnpaso?
Like what means the 15 and the number after the W40, 50 or 60?
Let's talk some oil magic or black magic if you changing the engine oil.
Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 1:49 am
by Ducman
Most people are familiar with oil's Viscosity Rating—10W40, for example. However, very few know that the "W" refers to "winter," not "weight." And most of us have no idea what the weight-rating numbers mean other than that the vehicle's manufacturer specifies a particular viscosity.
Low-viscosity oils flow better than high-viscosity ones—the lighter-weight fluid is easier to pump and therefore circulates faster through the engine's various galleries. Low-viscosity oils also maintain a lower oil pressure, but the oil pump delivers a greater volume through the galleries than it would with thicker (higher-viscosity) oils. Heavier oils also tend to operate at higher temperatures because the oil pump has to work harder to force the lubricant through the system. Oil does not compress readily, so the added pressure increases the temperature. In the end, high-viscosity oils maintain a higher oil pressure, but the pump delivers a smaller volume of oil.
If a biker doesn't like 10W40, then use 20W50. It can do everything a 10W40 can do except pass the sub-zero viscosity test at -20 degrees C.
Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 10:00 am
by Kasman
Your right about that and the different oil thinkness, but the W stands for warmth (heat) because the viscosity of the oil depends on the temperature of the oil.
If you have a ducati with a lot of milage the engine has more tollerance on the moving parts in the engine.
When you use a oil wich is thin when you do a coldstart the oil goes to fast and you will see a low oilpressure. This also explains the gearbox noise of the engine.
When the engine gets warmed up the tollerance will slightly dissapear untill it reached a minimum left - this has to be otherwise your engine will breakdown.
When you have a engine with a lot of tollerance because of the milage its better to use a oil wich remains its thickness even when its warmed up.
Conclusion is that synthetic oil is only good for engines with low milage - when you have a lot milage on the engine use a oil like 15W50 mostly its mineral because there is no full synthetic for that value or its a half synthetic.
Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 10:52 pm
by Rasser
Hi
Have today passed 98900KM on my 907. Had a revision done last Winter and I had to insist to get new bearings. My mechanic thought it a bit of a waste, but when we had it open I wanted it done.
I nearly always, since KM26000 when I got the bike from Italy have used what you call thin oils. 5-40, 10-40 etc. Mostly R4 or GPS from Castrol. I was always told by frinds that this old bike should have "thicker" oil, pure mineral or semi-synth, but I am convinced that quality synthetic high tech oil will outperform the lesser advanced in the long run.
I commute 65km/day for 8-9 months in heavy traffic from early Spring to almost Winter temperatures as well as long distance high rpm trips in plus 30-35C. All on the same types of oil.
In a regular shop they charge 20-25USD a quart/liter, but I get some 30-40% discount which makes it ok.
An oil filter from the Danish importer is just around $15 incl 25% vat. He keeps reasonable prices especially when I compare to what I had to pay for H.... VFR parts some yrs back.
Just to enlighten your day: The new basic 1098 will sell about 7% cheaper than the 999, but in Denmark with our 180% tax this is DKK 321,000.00 or $$ 53,000.00 or Eur 43,000.00. That should keep you smiling.
Per
Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 11:21 pm
by beemerboy
Rasser wrote:Hi
Have today passed 98900KM on my 907. Had a revision done last Winter and I had to insist to get new bearings. My mechanic thought it a bit of a waste, but when we had it open I wanted it done.
I nearly always, since KM26000 when I got the bike from Italy have used what you call thin oils. 5-40, 10-40 etc. Mostly R4 or GPS from Castrol. I was always told by frinds that this old bike should have "thicker" oil, pure mineral or semi-synth, but I am convinced that quality synthetic high tech oil will outperform the lesser advanced in the long run.
I commute 65km/day for 8-9 months in heavy traffic from early Spring to almost Winter temperatures as well as long distance high rpm trips in plus 30-35C. All on the same types of oil.
In a regular shop they charge 20-25USD a quart/liter, but I get some 30-40% discount which makes it ok.
An oil filter from the Danish importer is just around $15 incl 25% vat. He keeps reasonable prices especially when I compare to what I had to pay for H.... VFR parts some yrs back.
Just to enlighten your day: The new basic 1098 will sell about 7% cheaper than the 999, but in Denmark with our 180% tax this is DKK 321,000.00 or $$ 53,000.00 or Eur 43,000.00. That should keep you smiling.
Per
Wow, that's a lot of riding. I see lots of older Ducs with low mileage and wonder why people don't ride them more often.
I realize that as owners of such high performance machines we have to deal with the maintenance costs and view them as the price we pay for having fun. I own two BMW's and know full well the cost of European motorcycle ownership.
When compared to my Land Rover with my last lube/oil/filter service at the dealer costing $52 US, the cost of the synthetic oil and factory filter seems high. The one bright spot is that doing the work myself helps understand the 907 better.
