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Fast,
When you turn ing. off then back on, can you do this and does it run again. In other words it's running and starts to cut off, you switch the key off and back on quickly and it runs again?
If so, check the fuel injection relays on the heat sink plate behind the left mirror. When a relay gets old and weak (its basically a magnet) it will lose it's grip and releases and opens the circut. Turning the key off on or switching the kill switch off on quickly and it runs basically sends a jolt of electricity to the relay and makes it pull the contacts closed and then eventually it weakens and releases again.
I hope I explained that good enough to follow but you make take a look at it. It happened to me with a BMW. Shop wanted to replace many a parts at lots of money, I figured it out myself, relay was $20.
Good luck.
du907

Fast,
When you turn ing. off then back on, can you do this and does it run again. In other words it's running and starts to cut off, you switch the key off and back on quickly and it runs again?

I think he said he did the relays ,but maybe he missed those particular ones, It does sound electrical in nature But then what on a Duke is not Btw, you can get them for less than 5usd each on fleabay if you know what you are looking for

er ah ok, clutch noises,fuel issues,valve clatter,belt issues, paint codes ,hydralic problems

du907 wrote:Fast,
When you turn ing. off then back on, can you do this and does it run again. In other words it's running and starts to cut off, you switch the key off and back on quickly and it runs again?
If so, check the fuel injection relays on the heat sink plate behind the left mirror. When a relay gets old and weak (its basically a magnet) it will lose it's grip and releases and opens the circut. Turning the key off on or switching the kill switch off on quickly and it runs basically sends a jolt of electricity to the relay and makes it pull the contacts closed and then eventually it weakens and releases again.
I hope I explained that good enough to follow but you make take a look at it. It happened to me with a BMW. Shop wanted to replace many a parts at lots of money, I figured it out myself, relay was $20.
Good luck.
du907

I put new relays in and the problem still exists. The bike will start again if I turn the key off and back on again. Thanks for the input though.

Fast,
A couple more places to try:
On the left side of the frame about at where the tank bolts down, remove the side cover and take a look at the two connectors zip tied to the frame. The white plug will come apart and if it does the engine quits. It's more of an instant off but I would check it anyway.
It still sounds like something is warming up and then failing. Prime example of a relay, but you've changed them all according to your post. Check your plug into the ECU. The metal tab that is suppose to keep the plug plugged into the ECU doesn't always do the trick. I zip tied mine so the plug cannot work loose. Can you flip the kill switch on and off quickly when it starts acting up and it runs good for another 25 miles? Could it be the fuel pressure regulator with a hole in the diaphram? How about the main fuse on the left side of the inner rear fender near the fuse box? Is that fuse link in good shape? Is it burnt, wavy looking?
I'll think on it some more.
du907

Mine would stall I would put it into neutral while still rolling and start it back up. I rode it home about 40 miles that way.

clay7185 wrote:Mine would stall I would put it into neutral while still rolling and start it back up. I rode it home about 40 miles that way.

So did you find out what the problem was? I do the same. The bike will sometimes lose one cylinder or both will go. When this happens I just pull in the clutch, turn the key of and then back on and it fires right back up.

Fast Eddie wrote:

clay7185 wrote:Mine would stall I would put it into neutral while still rolling and start it back up. I rode it home about 40 miles that way.

So did you find out what the problem was? I do the same. The bike will sometimes lose one cylinder or both will go. When this happens I just pull in the clutch, turn the key of and then back on and it fires right back up.

that is interesting...its like the P7 overloads or something similar, then by switching it off/on it resets itself...have you tried swapping the chip/FI box (if you can borrow one)...as I said on my previous post, its very unlikely that the FI system is faulty...but then again not impossible

It was the two butt connectors right before the rectifier on the yellow alternator wires. They were a little black on the plastic insulation is what gave it away.

Does anyone live close to Cincinnati where I could use a chip and/or computer to sharp shoot this. I'm willing to ride a day (under 5500 rpm of course) to try this. I went through it yesterday again with the plastic off but really didn't see anything. I played with the throttle cable since it seemed to be rubbing on a wiring harness. I took it for a ride and the smile was wide as it ran great.... for two miles.

Do you know what chip you have? USA 23 or European 23 or aftermarket? I have extras, but I would have to look and see what I have.
du907

du907 wrote:Do you know what chip you have? USA 23 or European 23 or aftermarket? I have extras, but I would have to look and see what I have.
du907

I'm not sure since the chip was replaced by the original owner. It does have the Feracci pipes and K&N air filter as a mod.

The stock chip has a white label on the top: "023" for the EU version or "023U" for the USA bikes.
You only have to unscrew the 4 screws of the lid of your ECU and see at the chip.
Ciao

Today I will check on the chip, reset the TPS and check more wiring. Update will follow.

Rider.... becoming an apprentice mechanic

I'm still working on finding the cause of the bike stalling once over 5500 rpm. Yesterday I took the tank off and started taping up the K&N air filter to see if that produced any change. With two strips of tape I was able to get up to 6500 rpm regularly. With more tape the condition got worse. Now, my bike has the K&N air filter with the top of the airbox removed. I guess when the previous owner put the filter on there was not one that fit with the top cover on. He has since passed away so I don't know when this condition started. Again, it sat in his house for up to 7 years and then in a barn for 3 years. I checked the inside of the airbox to make sure the wasn't anything in the bottom and all connections look good. I was told that he replaced the chip for the filter and the Feracci pipes when he did the upgrade. So I have two questions; does removing the airbox cover cause a lean condition, and did the replacement chips have a tendancy to go bad? I'll get this thing sorted out yet!

taping of the filter reduces the amount of air flowing in. ergo the mixtures enrichens. that's the reason you get her to the 6500 rpm.
taking of the lid of the airbox leans the bike off significantly.
if in case the K&N filter is unoiled it gets even worse.
personally I don't think a chip goes bad. maybe it's connectors are dirty or corroded.
you may take th bike to a dyno centre and measure what goes wrong in the air mxture or ignition.

Bertus