ducatipaso.org

that self retracting foot rest for the one legged pillion is what higgy is talking about.

Ken is the guy who wrote the cam timing doc.
http://www.box.net/shared/76966gjgn8

G.

, I've been know to ride almost as far, in the rain,at night,in nothing but a Tshirt for a bottle of water as a friend whose Norton is in need of some tlc reminded me yesterday
That was our last attempt to make the Desmo Picnic . I am one for three for the picnic. The one I did manage to get to I was late. Still had a great time.
As G stated,you have the right handle in mind and Ken wrote the Cam timing doc which you can also get here and at my Weber tuning site http://mysite.verizon.net/vze2hw9t/
Kens document will give you everything you need to do the cam timing.
You can get what you need to make your own turning tool for under 20 bucks from McMaster Carr in a day or two. All you need to make your own turning tool is a drill and a hack saw and the time,a vise is also handy.
If you have a printer or access to one you can print out your own degree wheel.( Ken's Doc)
If you use a rigid stop to find TDC do not use the rear wheel to turn the engine over you will punch a hole in your piston top for sure. I see you have already discovered the "accuracy" of the factory marks

Jon Slocum( Desmo Prez) also has a very informative website for the DIY kinda guy http://www.ducatisuite.com/
If money is an issue and when is it not these days You can rent the tools http://www.ducatitoolrental.com/

Yes, turning the rear wheel is not the most accurate thing in this world JUST for cam timing. But for cam timing the right procedure is adjusting piston squish and for doing that there's no other mean that fitting plastic gauge on the piston head. For valve adjusting, the rear wheel procedure accuracy is more than enough. Keep in mind that when adjusting valves, you keep the camshaft in a position where both valves are closed and that happens not only at TDC but even a BDC just before de compression stroke.

Some Paso are not equipped with the lift handle to help to get her on the center stand. If it's your case, you can lifht her this way:
- Turn handlebar full left.
- Lean the center stand on the floor and step on its lever.
- Put all your body weight on the lever and pull back the left handlebar.
This procedure works but anyway, getting the Paso on the center stand is not an easy procedure as far as the center stand lever is too short.
In mi F1 it's much easier because I can hold the frame and use it as the Paso handle.

But for cam timing the right procedure is adjusting piston squish and for doing that there's no other mean that fitting plastic gauge on the piston head

would be more about blueprinting than strictly cam timing....and if you really want to go that far better check your bottom end clearances first Might as well check those deck heights,while your there might as well true that crank, get some good rods weld that head up and redo the intakes and combustion chambers maybe do another plug hole
FCR's anyone ?? MYecu ?

- Turn handlebar full left.
- Lean the center stand on the floor and step on its lever.
- Put all your body weight on the lever and pull back the left handlebar.

like to see that on a steep downhill Where's my truss, some body see my balls anywhere