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I don`t understand why you lowered the fork. Only for not getting too close to the fairing ? How about the front cylinder under full braking?
The 907ie swingarm is longer so the steering angle already becomes steeper and as the fork is shorter the angle changes even more so from this point of view there`s no need lowering the front at all and you now dropped it another 15mm. This could cause steering wobble, specially at higher speeds.

Did you check chain alignment (w/ laser) or are the front sprockets of 906 and 907ie the same ?

G.

paso750 wrote:Did you check chain alignment (w/ laser) or are the front sprockets of 906 and 907ie the same ? G.

Chain alignment:

Hmm, I didn't check. I just presumed would be okay. Dumb. Just checked the Parts catalogues. They are different numbers even though both 15 teeth. And yes, the 907ie front sprocket has teeth in the middle rather than inside, since the 907ie swingarm is a little wider.
The front sprocket in the 906 Parts catalogue is 44910031A 15 teeth
The front sprocket in the 907 Parts catalogue is 44910071A 15 teeth

I got the right one from http://www.jtsprockets.com/ JTF737-15

paso750 wrote:I don`t understand why you lowered the fork. Only for not getting too close to the fairing ? How about the front cylinder under full braking?
The 907ie swingarm is longer so the steering angle already becomes steeper

Think my term was confusing - I meant lowering the forks down in the tripple clamp to make them longer, not lowering the front of the bike itself.

I lowered [edit: meaning lowing down in the tripple clamp to make longer by 8mm] to try and get closer to 907ie geometry. General feel in the seat is far better. With 906 I had to steer more the bike around corners, now it glides around easily. Maybe still a little sensitive when coming to a stop.

Some posters here also said it was necessary so the new tyre won't hit the fairing or radiator under hard braking.

It seems the 907ie front forks are 10mm longer, raising the front up more than the 906. I lengthened front forks 8mm and my front 16" wheel with higher profile tyre is still lower than 907ie by 6mm that 907ie. But I think this is fine because actually, it is up 2mm from the 906 - the 907ie is raised 10mm in the front.

NOTE: The height of the 906 and 907ie distance from axles to ground are the same difference, ie 18mm higher in the back:
906: Front (130/60x16) is 78 height & back (160/60x16) is 96 height. 96-78=18
907ie: Front (120/70x17) is 84 height & back (170/60x17) is 102 height. 102-84=18 [907ie add 13mm front and back for the 17" rim]

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sorry, my misunderstanding. You were talking about dropping the fork, I understood dropping the front. I guess I should read better.

hi all,

I saw an ad. from a local Duc dealer who has halfrings you can put in the place of the original excenter of the rearaxle and make the swingarm longer.
just enough to adapt a 17" wheel.
look at www.startwin.nl

ducbertus

Can you check the link?
I have tried to see it, but I got an error message.
Ciao

I'm just on to it.
http://www.startwin.com/
this is the URL. (I've checked it!!)
when I found the half rings I'm gonna post it.

ducbertus

these half rings are not on their web site yet.
I found their ad. in the Dutch Ducati club magazine.
with these half rings (kind of Omega shape) and longer bolts you can mount a Avon AV46
Azaro ST 150/80 ZR16 tyre. Reading this post I remember I had read the ad and thought it was to adapt 17". this is not soo. my mistake.
but maybe it's helpfull to someone.
halfrings and bolts cost € 100. you also have to elongate the chain by one link.

ducbertus

Can someone make direct link to those "half rings"???

they will be on their website shortly.
I called them and explained the guy I spoke there's a lot of interest in those halfrings.
He promissed to put the halfrings shortly on the website.

Ducbertus

WOW raise this , lower that, paso geometery, 20mm longer that !faaarrrkk what a head spin ! If I put a 17" wheel on the front ,it should raise the front,( who cares how much !) which is good , then do same for rear, also raised.... good ( I keep scraping that stupid cross thing in the exhaust so a bit more ground clearance is good ). If the wheel hits radiator ..... move the radiator ( the brackets are all cracked , so there's 2 reasons ). I think that any noticable changes in handling will be because of the 17" wheels / tyres rather than because of the changes in geometery caused by the fitting of said wheels /tyres. A little bit of the old " head in the sand " aint so bad ( just ask the pomm's, they won 2 wars doin' it ! )There is a bit of ride height adjustment at the rear using either the eccentric ( wether you set the axle hi or low gives a inch ) and there is adjustment available at the shock itself......... that will do me .
Hamish

Does anyone know what size disks this calliper bracket is suited for?

It was made for 906 forks converting to 4 pot Brembos for a 17 inch hub, but i don't know what disk size they are for.

as the caliper mounting holes are so far back they are most likely for 320mm discs

thank you for writing in Arial 72.
now I don't need me glasses.
I've watched the website of Startwin several times, but any information didn't show up.
meanwhile I learnt to put pictures in a post.


using these half rings ables you to mount a 150/80-16 Avon tyre.
the chain needs another link.

Bertus

OK Here's what it says:

Ducati Paso rear tyre problem is history.


Thanks to the rear fork adapters designed by Star Twin the 16" rear tyre problem is solved. Thanks to the extra space provided by the adapters you can now mount a Avon 150/80 ZR. The adapter kit comes with longer pinch bolts and the chain needs to be extended by one link.

Kit price 100 Euro
Installation (labour) 75 Euro. This includes lenghtening the chain.
Rear tyre 267.75 Euro
Complete set (incl. installation) 400 Euro