Bought a 1988 paso 750. wow

[Desmo_Demon]

as I mentioned earlier the puller is required to remove the left engine cover, hence the alternator side.

I made a puller from a small piece of flat bar stock and a few bolts. They are pretty easy to make. I'll have to see if I have any pictures of it. Worked great on my ST2.

[Biohazard]

So ive been studying the engine manual alot before i dig into this. no go on head gaskets or base gaskets for the cylinders. someone told me i can use that cork gasket maker for the heads, but about the cylinder base gaskets is another story. yep, i will drain the oil first check it all out, then pull both side covers, if nothing in them then will do the heads , time them then pullem, check the valves, if still nothing, then pull the cylinders. and look down in the case. like i said the engine is gonna stay in the bike so no dumping it upside down. once i time the heads,, the bike CANT be moved.

[paso750]

if there`s nothing in the oil and in the side covers it´s better you remove the engine from the frame. It`s not a big deal and it´s easier to work on. Doesn`t make sense to pull the cylinders (if the heads are ok, too) when it`s still in the bike. It´ll also be easier to change belts, adjust valves etc. Jm2c

G.

[Biohazard]

ok will check both sides first. i did drain the oil. nothing there. has a hint of fuel smell in it. it sat tho for close. to a year. the chain is off right now. does the front spot where the chain goes around spin freely? ( the front sproket is not on ) maybe cuz its in nuetral....

[Biohazard]

couple questions... when i take the engine out, does the bottom part of the frame unbolt? when it goes back in, will the chain ne already aligned? and the shifter, isnt it supposed to click when shifting? i can shift it once up and the front chain gear wont turn by hand, but no clicking....

[streetsurfer]

Do you have the front sprocket and chain on hand? Seems to me you ought to be able to install those if so, remove spark plugs, place bike on centerstand, shift into a high gear and rotate the rear wheel slowly and gently to see if you can produce the noise. Listen on different points of the engine while doing so. If so it might be easily discernable as to where it stems from, or at least the general area. This method can be used to turn the engine over during a valve adjustment so it ought to be safe so long as you don't force things should you encounter resistance. This might save you lots of work in the event it is just something loose under the alt. cover, a clutch puck hanging up from corrosion to the cover's bore, a bad throwout bearing from brake fluid leaking past damaged oring, overly tight or loose valves, or if it is indeed nearer to the bottom end or the tranny gears. You may be able to feel it through the driveline as well if nearer the gears. You won't have the engine noise to get in the way.
Of course you would want to move very gingerly to start out.
What do you all think?

[Biohazard]

bring the new chain and sproket in tommorow. but the no clicking when ya shift is weird... maybe its just me...he already moved the bike with the chain, a while back and no noise....

[scimmione]

Streetsurfer is right: put it up on the center stand, put it in 2nd gear and slowly spin the rear wheel. If you don't get the noise, shift up the gears to speed-up the the motor rpms until you do hear something. Get someone to spin the rear wheel while you listen with a stethoscope or screwdriver against the cases and heads. Also try pulling in the clutch while your friend spins the wheel and listen for a clutch related noise.

Take pics and keep us posted.

Thanks

[paso750]

does the front spot where the chain goes around spin freely?

freely like the wheels ? No. It will turn freely (when in idle) when you put the chain back on and turn the wheel.

when i take the engine out, does the bottom part of the frame unbolt?

yes, the lower frame rails also have to be removed if you try to get off the engine side covers.

when it goes back in, will the chain ne already aligned?

yes as you don`t change anything on the driveshaft or swingarm/wheel

and the shifter, isnt it supposed to click when shifting?

I`d say this depends. I have a new engine, new gearbox etc. One can switch from neutral in first or second w/o pulling the clutch, sometimes even in a higher gear when rotating the rear wheel. there´s not necessarily a loud "clack" noise when shifting gears. Specially the lower gears seem to change smoothly and with little noise.

Turning the engine over by hand is definetely worth trying I just wonder if it´s the oil pressure or engine vibration which makes a part in the engine move. If so this will be hard to reproduce.
Remove the spark plugs if you try to turn the engine over in gear or this won`t work.

[Biohazard]

as u can see the guys weld and patch job goes a little over the clutch cover. so i will have to do some grinding to get the cover off.....

[scimmione]

That looks like silicone seal not a weld. Is there a weld underneath that? Looks like they laid the bike on it's side, maybe cleaned-up the damaged area with carb cleaner and then smeared on the goo.

[paso750]

that`s probably JB weld or something like that.
Btw the clutch cover is on the other side of the engine )

G.

[Biohazard]

yea weld underneath. since thats where the chain went through, figured the damage has to be in there, and where do u use that special tool on this side? also when the bike is sitting like this is it even possible to switch between all the gears at all. thanks. also the guy lost the ignition key, are these ignitions easy to find or maybe have a new key made for this itnition..
thanks.

[scimmione]

that`s probably JB weld or something like that.

You're right; the flash makes it look shiny and lighter.

[Mc tool]

Biohazard , buddy , fellow paso lover, ect ect. Reading thru these (42 ) posts one thing is becomming very obvious , your no bike mechanic. This aint a bad thing ( well it is at the moment , but not generally ), and I might be wrong. All the good advice and helpful comments in the world are of little use if you cant work with it . I have spent the last 2 years as an orthopedic paitent , being shown x rays and being given great explanations , 5 leg opps , 2 300mm long pins and countless screws , but Im still not ready to have a go myself, just not my thing.
Interesting that you make comment about gear selection , one of my early thoughts was that there was some damage to the gear selection mechanism and the clunking noise was two gears almost engaging ( dogs just touching as they pass ). Seems to me that if there was a foreign body in there the noise would be a bit random / intermitant , unless there is a sliver of ally or JB weld mashed into the root of a gear tooth ,This could show up as a regular tight spot whilst trying to rotate front sprocket , in any event I think you should consider taking or sending it to an experianced mechanic , could save you a lot of angst and money in the long run