ducatipaso.org

I don`t see the alignment marks on the outer part of the center body. There`s a square instead of two lines.

from section 8-22 (many other detailled photos there)
http://www.box.com/public/oq4fober14

Yes the only alignment marks are down at the bottom if you look at the picture i posted and there are none at the top aside from those on the End Cap. I took the starter to an Auto Electrician and he had it turning clock- wise on the Bench and in the mean time i got a second hand one and fitted it and run it. I have not heard back from the Auto Electrician but will contact him in the morning.

The marks on the center housing that can`t be seen must be on the rear side which would mean the end cap isn`t mounted right. At least there should be some. As mentioned a square not two lines like on the other parts.
Assuming your new one works correctly did you check it for the marks ?

Here is what it should look like,sorry for the poor quality,in the middle of getting the 907 up to speed for a SPIRITED ride this Saturday, belts,sync and valve check. Ran into some PO issues doing the belts and had to scramble for good parts from a real hack job





guess I'm lucky my valves are still working.
But then in some ways my luck never runs out 9 lives with this one being number 9

so the marks in the front and rear are on the opposite side and Harry`s endcap is reversed.

Yes..............

Yeh i should of mentioned that i did get the Bike going with the secondhand Starter it only cost me $20 because it had been sitting in a parts bin for a long time so i was happy with that purchase and i have talked with the Auto Elec that i gave the original Starter too he said that at some stage the Starter has been reconditioned totally and that the way it goes back together to turn in the correct rotation does not have any relation to the Marks that are on it? im not sure how that works but he has it re-assembled and has put new alignment marks on it so that when i pick it up it will become a spare i did read somewhere that when they recondition that they will totally rebuild Starter Motors with new windings and Magnets etc so yes i wonder if the owner before me had done this and he was the one that new how it went back together. Next job on the list is coil replacement with Dyna Coils should i run 3 ohm or 5 ohm.

Harry wrote:Next job on the list is coil replacement with Dyna Coils should i run 3 ohm or 5 ohm.

3 ohm coils are what you need.

Harry, when you pick up your repaired starter would you post some pictures of it again ?

G.

Yes i will post pictures

......... It's happened again,I don't feel so stupid now. knowing that at least 3 other members have put their starter motors back together ass about and spun them backwards. J

I should note that I just stumbled across this thread ,as I dont read the 900 forum very often,but I helped someone else on the 750 thread with the same problem last year, as I had done the same thing the year before I thought G participated in that discussion ? anyway This time it should be labeled clearly in its own thread,before someone else considers pulling their engine apart to fix a simple mistake. J.

my sprag just went belly up on the 907 40K miles
now I have two bikes down
rode the 907 yesterday anyway,60 degrees out

least i do have a spare sprag, so i guess i will have a pictorial to upload next week

The starter sprag in my 906 packed it in the other day. I pulled the sprag out and found the spring had stretched & let go. I took the spring down to the local bearing supplier and he matched it up with one from an oil seal for me. This is the second time I've had to replace the spring, the last one has lasted 20,000+ kms and the seal only cost me $15. Apart from the spring the sprag looked ok so I'm hoping to get the same life out of this spring.

paso750 wrote:it`s easy with the right tools
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DUCATI-ALTERNAT ... es&vxp=mtr
G.

I just ran across some old pictures I forgot I had and figured I'd post another alternative for future reference...

All you need is a piece of plate steel, two fairly long bolts (M5?) with one nut each, and a bolt to fit into the end of the crank. Drill the two holes large enough that the two bolts easily slide through them...



To use it, place the one bolt in the end of the crank, place a nut on each smaller bolt, put the plate in place, install the bolts, and then evenly align the nuts so the puller is parallel with the cover (Note - make sure that the long bolts are several turns into the cover but not far enough to bottom out on the flywheel so that you don't accidentaly strip out the threads).

To remove the cover, simply turn each nut about 1/2-turn each while preventing the bolts from turning with another wrench, alternating back-and-forth between them to evenly draw the cover off the engine. Once the cover is far enough off the bike and stator rotor, you can use the puller as a handle and pull the cover off...

The cover screws are M6 and the thread in the end of the crank is M8. Instead of an engine turning tool you can fit an M8 screw with a locknut to the end of the crank and use it for turning the engine with a spanner, easy if the spark plugs are removed. Very useful when fitting new belts etc.