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cant get my 907 to start
Posted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 10:03 pm
by Stingray230SX
ok ,here goes nothing........just found the time to get the 907 out of the garage and do the usual spring get ready stuff: top off/charge battery/clean all connections for starter and charging circuit/ etc...
now heres where the problem starts or rather doesnt start....
i have power to the starter and it will spin up however it either gives me a kind of grunching sound ,followed by the drive just free spinning or i get a couple of revolutions,then the drive kicks out and free spins.....i can almost get enough for it to fire but not this time and i am wondering if i have the infamous "starter sprague issue" or just a weakening starter that i need to remove and clean/rebuild?
i just see one wire going to the starter so i am not sure of how it drives the bendix(starter gear)out into the flywheel and i guess i will soon find out.
i did a search and while i am still looking for my manual(i have one of those desmo times books on the 2 vavle 900's)however it is eluding me at the moment so i am looking into getting the haynes or similar(i have 907 factory but not the "real 906" manual)the search indicates that i need to remove the left cover to remove the starter so i guess i will start there.
fork seals need done before i can ride this year as well so looks like a busy couple of weekends for me(once i round up all the parts)wish me luck
doug hunt
Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 12:29 am
by jcslocum
Doug,
Sounds like your starter sprag is giving you trouble. Take a look here for some info from the 750 forum:
Click Here
And some more info
SPRAG INFO
It can be fixed by replacing the sping and a new sprag is about $120 last I heard. It's about a 2-3 hour job depending on how handy you are.[/url]
Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 12:42 am
by Stingray230SX
Thanks Jon,
i kind of figured,since i have read of this many times.
i just returned from my dads house(where i keep the 907 in his garage)and removed the fairings so i can get a little done each day and maybe get it ready to put back together by next week.
the starter just spun most of the time i tried it this evening,though i did get the grunching a couple of times.
looks like drain the oil/antifreeze/then disconnect hoses/remove shift lever-linkage/remove side cover(left)
then more when i get inside
oh yea
thanks again
ps:after looking at those pics thats gotta be whats wrong,should i get a new sprag spring or just shorten up the old one(can i even get a new one?)everything i get will have to be off the net cause theres no duc dealer in my state at the moment.
ive got an e-mail in to the gowanloch boys about new dust seals/tube seals for my forks,seems as if someone here got some back in december so i will try them,if not there are at least some fork tube seals on e-bay that i can get and just reuse the dust seals(one of mine is starting to crack)
doug hunt
Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 2:13 am
by jcslocum
Doug,
You can get a new spring out of an oil seal. Just read the info from the 750 forum. The part number is listed there. I wouldn't shorten it.
I can reccomend a couple of mail order dealers that are quite trustworthy. BCM in NH and Aldrin at Rockwells in NY.
Chris Kelley has the side cover gaskets
http://tinyurl.com/jo38c
Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 2:30 am
by Stingray230SX
Jon i did read that and i plan on getting that seal for the spring,but i guess i would have tried to get an oem part if i could.
two questions:
(1)do i use that oil seal spring the length that it is?ready to go,as they say?
(2)that gasket looks like its for the right side(im thinking i need the left side gasket to get to the starter sprague/alternator rotor area etc...?
nevermind :screwy: i just reread his webpage and there it is(alt cover gasket) sheese
thanks again
doug hunt
Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 2:50 am
by Stingray230SX
just ordered the alt gasket from cycleworks,as i can probably get the seal for the spring locally at NAPA(going to get my oil filter from them as well)
as i have never had one of these apart before,should i use a gasket sealer with that gasket or just clean it well and put it together dry?
again as always
thanks
doug hunt
Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 5:01 am
by Skins
I believe that nice clean surfaces, lightly oiled, is all you need.
Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 6:21 am
by Finnpaso
There MUST put gasket silicone OR paper gasket, but NOT both.

....Anyway check same time Pick up clearances: 0,7-0,75mm.
Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 10:06 pm
by Stingray230SX
OK , sunday repairs went well,left side cover came off without a hitch and starter sprag was removed and spring(from oil seal)was installed without a problem.
didnt get side cover gasket from ca-cycleworks until monday though and still havent had a chance to finish buttoning it all up but its almost complete(found out my 2 year old tank repairs are failing and i have a weeping tank)thats next to tackle along with the fork rebuild(still have to place that order with gowenloch)
heres a picture of the twisted up/stretched out original 13 year old sprag spring(a little blurry but you can tell its wasted)
thanks again guys
doug hunt
Posted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 3:54 am
by Fraser
Doug,
When you get around to look for fork seals try "Leak Proof Fork Seals". That is the brand name and there are plenty of suppliers in your part of the world on the net. Have used these seals on my 750 about 2 years ago and they were very successful.
Fraser.
Posted: Mon May 01, 2006 12:52 pm
by Stingray230SX
SUCCESS, HOO RAY
repairs on my tank were completed on friday by the shop that did the original lining and they repaired it again after it leaked over the winter storage(free repair as well,not bad after 2 years)
the previous starter sprag repair was finished as i finally received my side cover gasket a day after pulling the flywheel and completeing the sprag sring replacement
anyhow, all buttoned up and started up right away,runs great as before managed to get a 50 mile jaunt in late yesterday before time to put her away till later this week
thanks to all who helped me with this
doug hunt