clutch issue 92 907

discussions specific to the 907IE
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Ducman
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model: 907 I.E.
year: 1992
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clutch issue 92 907

Post by Ducman »

hey guys here's one for you hope that someone has a suggestion.
I noticed that the clutch lever was not feeling quite the same so I figure about time to check the fluid and it appeared down a bit so I topped it up and followed the procedure for bleeding. Got out the old fluid while adding more. Now no clutch at all. I figure the prob could be at the master cylinder as there is no pressure. Perhaps it sucked some crud in. You can leave the cap off and the stuff should fly out like it did when I did this by accident. :oops: Nothing, does't seem to be pumping at all. Any suggestions, even with some air in the line you should have some clutch action or lever feel. Don't know what the next diagnostic step would be :confused:
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Ducman
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year: 1992
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Post by Ducman »

the mechanic laughed at me and said clutch side hydraulics are a bitch :funny:
LudeDuc

Post by LudeDuc »

I spent a few days with a similar problem. I replaced the master cylinder and still had no pressure. Make sure you replace all the Banjo Bolt washers and tighten them up properly; the bolt on my master cylinder had a slight leak and I had no pressure until I replaced the washer and torque it back down. The bleeding process also can take some time (1/2 to 1 hour) to get air out of the line. Be patient and check everything that might possibly leak air.
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DesmoDog
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Post by DesmoDog »

I haven't played around woth my 907 for quite some time, so I might have some of the details wrong but here's what I remember about it...

If you look at the m/c when the bike's on it's stand you'll notice it isn't sitting level. What I had to do to get things right was to lean the bike over until the cylinder was level and the air could bleed out of it. (Otherwise the banjo bolt is the high point?)

This helped me a lot, you might want to try it before you get too involved in replacing parts.
-Craig
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Ducman
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Post by Ducman »

hey guys thanks, I guess the feeling of frustration is that I have bled brakes on cars, no worries, so I was disappointed in my inability to do a no brainer like this til I saw a bunch of folks have had grief. That makes sense about the banjo bolt as some people crack that or lightly tap it to let the air out, also air can leak thru the threads of the bleed bolt, if like me you loosen it off too much. Unlike a car you are dealing with a small system and very little fluid in the reservoir. Patience yeah, that's why I'm giving it a couple of days before I even look at it again.
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du907
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Correct Bleeding

Post by du907 »

The message above about tilting the master cylinder is the correct fix for your problem. I have done the same thing. Take the master cylinder loose at the handle bars and make the cylinder level. Now do the bleeding. The problem is with the master cylinder being at the angle it is, air is trapped at the top and can never be bleed out with out first making the master cylinder level. Harleys have the same problem with some of their models, that is how I found out about it. IT REALLY WORKS.
du907
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Ducman
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Post by Ducman »

giv'r a go this weekend :thumbup:
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Ducman
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Post by Ducman »

OK so here is the straight dope.
Go to the pet supply store buy 2 60ml syringes, the big suckers
Auto supply store for hydraulic fluid and 4 feet of 1/8 ID clear plastic hose. Take off the master cover. Cut a foot of hose and attach to first syringe, draw out most of fluid. Attach 2nd syringe to remainder of plastic tube fill with brake fluid and fit hose to bleed valve, I used a chunk of rubber hose I had as the plastic is a little small for the bleeder. Crack the bleeder slightly or it will leak where the valve meets the slave casting and GENTLY force fluid into the valve. Too fast and you will have it spraying everywhere out of the master. You have enough hose to stand and watch the master fill as you do it. Tighten the bleed valve. Gently use the clutch lever, if there is nothing going on there, you might have a lock caused by the plunger from the clutch lever blocking the hole in the master so back off the free play adjusting screw and use the lever gently a few times. Keep injecting fresh fluid and removing it from the master and bango rock hard. Screw the free play adjuster back in tighten the bleeder and swear to all the gods Ducati you will never be stupid enough to do this again :thumbup:
qldman36
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Post by qldman36 »

Handy tip; put coin into master cylinder to keep "spurts" off the paint.
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Ducman
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Post by Ducman »

:thumbup:
coin trick is a good one these forums are a good source :D
Shelboss
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year: 1991
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Brake bleeding

Post by Shelboss »

I bought a vacuum pump for bleeding brakes and clutches several years ago for about $20. It makes easy work of the most stubborn jobs. I will suck most of the fluid out of the master cylinder, wipe the remainder out, then top it off and draw new fluid thru. It doesn't squirt back like pumping the lever would and purges air bubbles pretty quick
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KillerB
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year: 1991
Location: Ontario, Canada

Post by KillerB »

Just a little tip from when I bled my clutch awhile ago. If you are going to tilt the whole bike to the right-hand side to raise the master cylinder, a) put your fuel vent pipe into a can, or b) don't do it with the fuel tank completely full. :oops:

Regards, B
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Ducman
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Post by Ducman »

The beauty of reverse bleeding the system is you don't have to worry about the banjo bolt being a tad higher than the master. Vacuum pump works ok, but a 60ml syringe is a buck and a half an' :roll: I'm cheap.
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