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Guys,
I'm about to start the scary job of changing my cam belts and replacing idler and tensioner bearings. I have the Haynes manual on hand and undertand the procedure. BUT, how do I get the cam sprockets to stay put? Is there a way to hold them or lock them in place?
Thanks
Ricardo

"sprockets to stay put?" ????? What U mean now???? Maybe i missied something, but IF U change belts or/and bearings of rollers, then no need to touch upper and lower "cam sprockets" at all !!! You only loosen those tightening nuts of adjusting systems and take them away.... Surely U can find such bearings from local SKF bearing shop, ...remembering, they are "normal stuff", nothing special and so, quite cheap, like near all Ducati bearings, what is very good point in all Ducatis. Ducati bearings can be found from local "grocery store" :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: When U put all new stuff in they places, then remember to check those timing marks, that belts are in they right teeths !!!! ....And that "5&6mm allen wrench rule", when check right tightening, then all is ok!

The only "tricky" part on belt change is vertical cylinder closer springs want to turn cam about one tooth. Easy solution is to turn crank like ammount, install belt, then back up to timing marks to make sure of correctness. Do your tensioning and,done.

I have noticed same, as You...

Antti,
All great minds think alike.

My trick is to mark (with a line) the old belts and pulley's with white nail polish before taking the belts loose. Lay the old belt on top of the new belt, line up the teeth carefully and transfer the marks. Then line up the marks on the new belts with the marks on the pulley's, slip them on and tension.

Good Luck!

Btw, i turn engine with screw and locking nut, what i put to crank thread under that left side small cover, what is taken easily away with taking 2 M5 screws away, then add only 13mm wrench to that nut and turn.... AND when put that cover back, REMEMBER to put that thin o-ring back to cover inside !!!!

Or two other alternatives, buy $50 "official" Ducati tool, or remove spark plugs, put in 6th gear and rotate with rear wheel. :neener:

My screw and nut didnt coast anything, cause i steal them from my workplace! .... also that 13mm wrench! :funny: :funny: :funny: :funny:

My suggestion is to switch form standard bearing to modified bearing (see spare parts book) that are safer and have a very longer life (a duc mechanical told me that). modified bearings aren't cheap but they're a great insurance for your engine's life!

If bike is kept in good order/maintained well, then those bearings need to be changed maybe one time/hole bike life, so i go for normal bearings, if something happen to them. To MY bikes; not yet, still originals....

What's the difference beetween those bearings (stock and modified)?
Ciao

Yes, can you please be more specific and provide some part numbers for both the idler as well as the tensioner bearings in the 750 Paso. What manufacturers (FAG, SKF, TIMKEN, etc.) have them available at the present time. I'm having to pay almost $25 apiece for the small FAG 630/8 that make up the idler bearing setup--and, as you know, it takes four of these little puppies to do both idlers on the two belts.
Do tell!!
Thanks,
Ricardo
PS: I apologize for having started this thread in the Classified section rather than the Technical Discussion--my bad.

Hey Nicola, question to You!!!!! What are "special bearing" numbers/manufacture????

I'm sorry for my late reply... troubles with the internet line!
instead of the couple of bearings #751710827 (the smaller couple), the later desmo2 have a single pack, complete of seal rings and screw. I was told that the higher amount to face is compared by the longer life of the bearings (" I never had troubles with these")
I made the upgrade last winter (I mean "northern winter" 12 months ago :-) while changing timing belts and I have no longer the number of original spare parts, hovever avaliable in any duc dealer asking for "idler bearing for monster desmo2"