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Here is the story. Went out for a ride during the weekend, all good, but the chain felt a bit loose and decided that it needed an adjustment. Two days later was in the garage to adjust the chain and noticed a pool of oil under then main stand. Ignored this and went on adjusting the chain. Had it right and was spinning the rear wheel to check all OK and the wheel stopped. The chain was tight at this point, so adjusted it to give clearance and then spun the wheel. The chain was then really loose at all the other points except where it was adjusted, time for a new chain. So decided to leave this and look for the oil leak. The trail of oil was not so clear and had spread around, but there was a suspicious amount below the drive sprocket cover. Removed the cover, drive sprocket, chain and cleaned it all up. Apart from the sludge and build-up from the chain it did not seam to bad. So, started the motor and ran for 10 minutes or so for the oil to get good and hot. No leak. Have left it an hour or so, but still no leak.
My theory is that the tight spot on the chain put a load on the sprocket/drive shaft, which let some oil, seep out. Without the sprocket and chain fitted there was no load and hence no oil leak.

Possible or just wishful thinking.

Fraser.

Yes, it is very possible. I've seen several chains that have stretched at an uneven rate, causing a tight/loose situation when the wheel is rotated, as you have. Definitely replace the chain. It's a good thing that you didn't adjust the chain on a loose section of chain, then run down the road and bent your transmission output shaft or tear up the output shaft bearings.

For the oil leak, I would suspect as you have. You probably won't see any more leaking until you get the transmission spinning, again, and there is a slight chance that the output shaft seal is bad, now (heat build-up...unever wear). I'd just keep an eye on it. If the seal is leaking on a regular basis from this point on, either replace it, or let it lube your chain and keep an eye on your engine oil level......actually, because of the type of bike and how it is driven, I really don't recommend the second suggestion......

My Harley has had an output seal leak for over 30k miles. I just let it lube the chain and keep an eye on the transmission fluid level. On a sportbike, I'd be more afraid of the seal finally letting go and coating the rear wheel with oil.....I only use my Harley for daily commuting to-and-from work......on straight, boring roads. I did try to fix it a few years ago, but I can't seem to do it from the outside of the tranny....I'll repair it when the tranny needs to be rebuilt...88k miles and still holding.

The trans uses a splash for lubrication so you won't see a leak until you ride. Just replace the output shaft seal. It's takes about 1/2 hour and costs $8.

Jon

jcslocum wrote:The trans uses a splash for lubrication so you won't see a leak until you ride. Just replace the output shaft seal. It's takes about 1/2 hour and costs $8.

Is this as easy as pulling off the sprocket cover, removing the sprocket, cleaning off the area, using a small screwdriver to remove the old seal, cleaning the area again, and then installing the new seal with care not to damage the lip of the seal?

Yes it is. Be careful not to damage the surface of the engine cover that houses the seal.

As an alternative you could carefully (I cannot stretch this enough) screw in a wood screw (we call it a parker screw) in the seal, and than
you can pull it out easily with a pair of pliers.

Michiel

Gentlemen,

Thank you for the helpful suggestions. However, in true Ducati tradition it now looks like it is an electrical problem!!
At the rear of the motor, above the swing arm pivot, there is a sensor and electrical cable. Not sure what it actually measures (possibly neutral?) but can now see a trail of oil from where the sensor screws into the motor. Very, very difficult to get to, with insufficient space to get a spanner in to tighten the sensor.

Have put on a new chain though! Thanks for the help.

Fraser.

Aha!

Indeed the neutral switch. And probably it is not leaking at the insert in the engine, but the sensor itself is leaking where the plastic part is
clamped in the metal housing, near the wire connection.

You could try flooding it with break cleaner to degrease it and than put some super glue on the connection, thus sealing it again. I've done this on several sensors and on the crankcase breather, seems to work.

Michiel

That neutral switch is piece of shit. Many have broken and then it start usually leak oil. Need to make suitable tool for changing it, but can be done, cause i have changed some. Remembering, that turning it with tool, U can turn only little by little and thread is quite long...

Michiel, thanks for the tip, have done that.
Also used a horrible cheap tool called a tube spanner ($5.95 for a set of 5) and slid the sensors cable through the tube spanner and then the tube spanner over the sensor to give it a tighten.

Fraser.

Still want to know, did that neutral light function normally? Those, what i have changed, that didnt happen, so have to change new one...

Antti,

Have kept the original sensor. After tightening it and glueing the rubber cap back on it seems oil tight. Had the bike out for an hour on Sunday, all good, no leak. The neutral light still works.

Fraser.

Very Good, Fraser Remembering, that its quite expensive switch...