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The Cultch on my 88 Blue Paso seems to have no free play. You just start to release it and it is engaged. I started thinking, is this normal?
Never had a bikes clutch work like this.
And is there anyway to lighten the pull? I have weak wrists from riding old Guzzis for years. I think that is how I got carpel tunnel.

OK this is the 750 Paso discussion, most of us ride 750 Pasos and use the clutch. I am asking if this lack of free-play is normal or do I have a problem? The clutch engages right when you start to release it at the beginning. Ok?

Well, I never happen to matter about, but I think your clutch is ok.
Actually, there's only the spring inside the master clylinder to pull back the slave piston ( with the oil depression), but when the handle lever is fully disengaged and the oil is free to flow up and down, the slave piston ( I mean the one inside the clutch cover) is pushed by its spring until he touches the clutch plate, so no free play.

The only way to lighten the pull is make a change at the master cylinder since the slave is built into the cover.

There really isn't any adjustment. Inside the lever at the master there is a screw you can fool with. This positions the lever. Record how much you change it so you can set it back if things go wrong.

There are wear itemns inside the cover. There is a bearing and a button that make contact and can wear. If I were you I would pull the cover and check things out inside there.

sprintex wrote:OK this is the 750 Paso discussion, most of us ride 750 Pasos and use the clutch.

Some of us have day jobs and can't/don't respond immediatley. Have a little patience....

He Sprintex,

There are some drastic ways to lighten your clutch but I only read about them and never tried it. You could replace the master pump which is a ps13 (13 mm diameter) with a smaller version for instance the ps12 (12mm). Trick is however whether you then pump enough oil to disengage the clutch. If you compare the pressure surfaces of the two by calculation you'll see that your clutch will become 15% lighter.

Another option is to remove 3 of the 6 clutchsprings or replace the normal ones with lighter versions. I say three because I think you have to keep the package rotationally balanced. I thought I read something about this on this forum and it seems to work. It wil give you 50% less operating force but there is a risk of a slipping clutch.

regards,

Remko

It sounds like your clutch has too much free play - are you saying that it disengages with the clutch lever pulled very close to the grip, and engages with the lever only a short distance from the grip?

If this is true, then you must have a large amount of free play in the lever, or you must have air in the line.

Try bleeding the clutch line, then see how it acts. If the lever is still too close to the grip when the clutch disengages/engages, then use the adjustment screw on the lever to set the lever position to an engagement/disengagement point that you are more comfortable with.

I assume sprintex was happy with our replies as he has not come back????

Hi all. I have not really done anything with the Paso clutch. Tried the adjustment screw but it is frozen. The Paso is kind of on the back shelf while I put my LeMans back together and the KLR needed a new chain and rear tire.
I also discovered the rear wheel bearings are shot, which kind of surprised since the bike only has 18000 miles on it.
My problem, beside the hard pull is the clutch disengages right at the start, farthest from the handle. Makes it hard to slip the clutch and make a smooth start.

Tried the adjustment screw but it is frozen.

Usually it is secured w glue.
Be determined and use correct size screwdriver and it will come loose.
1 turn out is quite noticeable.

Thanks, I'll try a with a little more effort.

sprintex wrote: I also discovered the rear wheel bearings are shot, which kind of surprised since the bike only has 18000 miles on it.

...but they are also 20 years old.

I recently had to replace a set of wheel bearings that had less than 5000 miles on them on my 748. Water had gotten into the hub of the wheel and when I leaned it against the wall (I have to sets of wheels and interchange them), the water puddled against the one bearing and worked its way past the seal and into it. Strangely, just a few weeks before that, I had set of bearings on the front wheel of my ST2 go bad. They had 31k miles on them, but there was a LOT of wet weather riding on those.

This was the dead giveaway that something was wrong....

Ah come on, a little WD40, some grease. they will be good as new. Oh I'm sorry thought I was on the Guzzi fourm.

What's the difference
Ciao