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This morning, great weather, I started the bike but she was keeping on the battery light sometimes on, sometimes off.
After some km. white smoke from front fairing and smell of burning.
I stopped the bike and then I tried to start again.
She starded, but the smoke became more threatening and I was scared the bike could catch fire.
From the metal plate into the fairing fell black drops on the fairing... so I called... Europe Assistance .
Any advice before to buy the Electrex RR51?
Ciao

Frankie, if You need Electrex RR51, i have 2 in my garrage(as spare), so if You pay same price, what i have payed from that + post coast to Italy, You get one.

Send me PM, if You need one. To:

finnpaso@gmail.com

Ill check that mail tom. morning. And check price, what i have payed, cant remember it just now.

Ps, i have fitted one to my 907IE and function since very well...

Propably that black shit came just from rectifier, cause its filled with such black material, that "nowbody can see, how its built"....

But surely, if You find one from Italy, then it can be viser to buy it from there...

Finnpaso wrote:Frankie, if You need Electrex RR51, i have 2 in my garrage(as spare)

You don't want to stay without riding the Pasos even for a minute !!!

Really, I have just inquired the Electrex distributor for Italy.
He told me the price is €. 92 + VAT and shipment (24h).

If you think 2 spare regulators are too much for you, I'd buy one from you, but if you want keep them both I'll buy from him.

Let me know.

THANKS !!!

Ciao

P.S. Let me know also what I have to do/check etc. before fitting the Electrex!!!
Ciao

Frankie,

Once it begins burning there is no was to do any real diagnosis with the possibilty of more damage. There is some things you can do in advance of installing a new regulator though.

Clean the grounds (earth) connections from the battery to the frame and engine. Clean your battery terminals.

Check the wiring from the alternator (on left side) to the regulator and make sure that they are clean and in good condition. Pay very close attention to the plugs/connectors in this wiring as they are a known weakness in Ducati's. I would clean every connection that goes between the alternator and the regulator. Very clean. Very very clean. Clean like you were going to dring Vodka from them in the sauna in Finland!!

Once all is very clean (see above) make sure that the new regulator is mounted with a very good contact (heat paste?) with the frame. The heat generated by the regulator needs to go somewhere. I have seen regulators mounted on top of a plate of aluminum to act as a heat sink.

Here is a pic:

http://www.procutting.com/pages/ST%20Re ... 02_jpg.htm

Another interesting solution:
http://members.aol.com/TBoling125/ducati_st2.html

And from my other web site: http://www.ducatisuite.com/wiring.html


Good luck and have fun with this!!

Thanks Jon for good tips. Wondering, is that putting regulator inside airbox good for air intake to enigine

I add some notes also here:

1. Just those 3 wires connections coming from stator to regulator are very often dirty and make resistance to much, what smelt them(like near happened to my 907, when i bought it from Italy)and then if such happened, then usually loose also stator inside left cover. It coast about double to regulator, so STATOR WIRINGS MUST BE CHECKED also after rectifier failure!!! You can find good advices to that from Haynes 900 manual with table of multimeter readings. Remembering, that there is also readings to check regulator... Those are propably most important measurings. ONLY good way is to weld those stator wires to regulator wires and use good insulation tubes around welding part.

2. You should check also possible feed out of battery, when engine is stopped. Clock takes little(cant remember just now exact, how many mA).

3. Check 30A MAIN FUSE in left side under side panel. It is cooneted just between regulator and battery/fusebox main feed.

4. According ST4S workshop manual battery voltage should be 14.5V +-0,5V at 3000 RPM. Measuring direct from battery poles!

5. U can also check generator output by dissconnecting just those 3 wires from generator and measure voltage between wires:
2000 RPM 27V +-10V
6000 RPM 78V +-10V These both values are FOR ST4S !!!!

DONT SHORTCUT them to each others OR to ground, when testing !!!!!

6: its good idea to make GOOD earth wire(ab2.5mm) from regulator cooling fins to good frame. Regulator MUST BE WELL earthed!

7. Current feed wires from regulator to battery MUST BE in good order and connections without any shit!

Anyway SOME problem maybe burned Your rectifier/regulator, so better check ALL charching wires 100%.

Prices are same in Italy and in Finland, so better You buy it from Italy(lower shipping coasts). Here also sometimes my Ducati friends are asking RR 51 from me, so i keep some in my garrage (like other samekind stuff, what someone can need, like belts, oil/air/fuel filters, Shell 15W-50 oil, what i buy by 55l cans...)

You need multimeter now Frankie!

I went to garrage and forget to warn one thing, so had to come back to pc:

Do NOT dissconnect the battery cables while engine is running!!!! Disconnecting battery cables when engine is running will damage the regulator.

Can it be, that You had loose battery connections, or shit there(too much resistance) or wire broken, etc ??? I mean in battery terminals.

Many thanks !

Finnpaso wrote:You need multimeter now Frankie!

I already have it, even if it's a cheap chinese stuff.
I hope I will be able to do it myself.

I have seen many people (as in the Jon's website) keep away the connectors and weld the wires.

Can I put some better connection or it's always better weld the wires?

Last question.

Later, I saw the clock is stopped.
Perhaps, can the battery be damaged?

Ciao

persempre907 wrote:
I already have it, even if it's a cheap chinese stuff.


Can I put some better connection or it's always better weld the wires?

Allways better welded and well insulated !!!!!

Your chinese stuff will make job well, but dont burn it, like Your regulator! :laugh: DONT measure voltages/amperes in resistance position!!!!

persempre907 wrote:
Later, I saw the clock is stopped.
Perhaps, can the battery be damaged?

That fuse broken, what feed current to clock? OR MAIN fuse(30A)?, Or battery so down , that it cant feed enough current to clock... U MUST check all fuses now!

If Your regulator fails, then You may loose also battery, cause its not anymore charching it! ...And injection take plenty of current fastly. Fastly now charge Your battery with some charger!!!! hipihopi Frankie to put charger on !!!!! :laugh: If battery stays some days without current/voltage, its easy to loose battery!

persempre907 wrote:Later, I saw the clock is stopped. perhaps, can the battery be damaged?

On October 3rd,

persempre907 wrote:Today my battery bulb seems go crazy: sometimes it stayed on until 3000 RPM, sometimes until 2000 RPM, sometimes it stayed off when the engine idles.
Is the regulator dying?

Franco,

You've been riding around for a couple of weeks with a bad rectifier. Riding with a bad rectifier drains your battery. You probably damaged your battery. Try charging it. If your lucky, your old battery will take a charge. If it doesn't, then you need a new batttery also.

Elton

Thanks !!!

Ciao

How many wires come out from the generator?
I can see two yellow wires but also a red or brown wire which has been cut .
P.S. many connector were melted .
Ciao

persempre907 wrote:How many wires come out from the generator?

2 Yellow wires. Cant say more, cause i have fairings still on.

Thanks Antti,
I also tought it, seeing the factory manual, even if from my generator it seems come out 3 wires, but 1 cut.
Perhaps, the previous owner has changed the generator wires, so used a 3 wires cable, I can't understand.
Ciao