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Pasoist,

I'd like to think I'll bundle up and get out to ride frequently this winter, but I'm guessing this year will end up like all the rest. Spring will roll around and my Paso will have 6 months of stale old gas in the Paso along with bone dry cylinders. I've still got a couple hours of daylight left here so I think I'll attempt to actually winterize my Paso. Here's my preliminary list:

1. Wash and dry it.

2. Put a few ounces of 2 stroke oil in the gas tank and run it for about 5 minutes, to coat the motor with oil.

3. Pull side body panels.

4. Pull float bowls (Dell Ortos in this case) and the fuel line that connects to the fuel petcock. Blow the fuel line that connects to the petcock with about 40 psi compressed air. Reinstall float bowls.

5. Fully drain gas tank. I'll take it off to do this if I can't be sure I can get it all through the petcock.

6. Lube chain.

7. Put in it's winter resting place and cover with sheet, then blanket, extending to the ground to fully cover and keep most dust out.

Okay FinnPaso, Gerhard, and the rest of our northern latitude Paso brothers, what am I missing?

dave

this is not specific to cold climate - just depends on the humidity...

my 907 tank had rusted badly inside.
the concentration (ultimately - pinholes) was at the little triangular apex where the side cover / tank / fairing intersect.

this seems to be the point where a lot of scale collects, too.
the flakes and scale will breed more rust if not cleaned out - particularly if moisture is present.

if you are draining the tank I'd be inclined to put in some dessicant (silica gel) to absorb any moisture.

observe the warning and DO NOT EAT the silica gel.

P.S. I ended up re-lining the tank with epoxy resin.

Dave,

get a front and rear bike stand to lift the Paso up. For the front I`d consider a one armed stand, the type that holds the bike at the bottom of the steering axle. This comes handy also if one day you want to remove the forks and will be good for your steering bearings also. If you let the bike stand on the wheels raise air pressure a bit and move the bike once in a while.



there are cheaper variants like this that are just mounted to a standard rear bike stand (this is the upper part) (I have it with different top adapters so I can use it on different bikes)



Do drain the carbs and fuel line but fill up the tank to prevent any rust. (Plastic tanks should be left empty, metal tanks should be full)
In spring you can either drain the fuel and use it for your lawn mower or just add some fuel reconditioner (you can get that at any bike shop). I`m doing this every year and the bike fires up and runs well like this.

Never heard about the 2 stroke oil idea ...
Some remove the spark plug and squit in some oil. So or so you should put the bike in gear and turn the engine over by hand once in a while. For the rest of the time keep it in neutral.

Some people recommend to to put a large rubber band on the clutch lever to have it disenganged. This only to prevent that with the standing time the discs get stuck to each other.
I suppose this is more a problem if you store the bike outside or in a humid place or if you have an open clutch cover.

Clean the fork sliders and all chromed parts. Put some tallow (?! can`t find the correct english term) or silicone on the rubber seals of the fork so they won`t dry up. It`s the same stuff you use for your car door seals so they won`t freeze up so fast in winter. Silicone spray may also be used for the seat to bring back some shine and to stop the material from drying out.

If you don`t want to start working on the bike when bike season starts you may consider already now to change filters, oil and spark plugs.
Remove the battery and charge it.

If you cover the bike get a cover that is not full plastic as it may sweat underneath and start corrosion. If the bike is in the garage an old linen cloth or woolen blanket will do fine.

Spray MOS2 oil or wax on aluminium parts, bolt heads etc. to prevent oxidation, some spray it also on the brake discs which I wouldn`t do. Sand the discs if necessary and spray some brake disc cleaner on them, that will do if parked in the garage.

Wipe down the exhaust with an oily rag and then stuff it in the exhaust opening.

I`d also check and wax the rims as if there are some chips in the clear coat oxidation will start fast and the wheels will look ugly.

If you are already working you may give the accellerator cables and carb linkages some oil.

thant`s all I can think off.

G.

Simply some things, what i do:

I empty fuel tank, cause fuel dont function anymore well after 5 months and if some water have been dropped to tank, it dryes out in wintertime. Have to say, that i keep my bikes in dry 2 car garrage hole wintertime and teperature is close +15C, so humanidy is "dry" and its best for motorbike. Moisture makes plenty of harm to elctrics.

Normally i take batteries out from bike, charge them 1 time/month, put them to store to my wine cellar. But another good way is to start every bike every month and run till fan starts and (possible) moisture from engine fades away.

I try drive "right amount of kms" till end of season, that i can put new oil to engine and run new oil to lubricate hole engine inside, so there stay new oli in engine just wintertime. I have noticed, that these machines work well, if sometimes start engine and run it, no matter do u drive it in street, or no.

If bike have carburators, then its maybe better to keep some fuel in carbs after clean bowls from shit, cause sometimes i have seen, that those gaskets inside carb can go to bad condition, if carbs are dry.

Most important is to keep bike in DRY place and over 0 degreess celcius. And surely bike have to wash and dry(by running engine) well before store it!!!

ps. i didnt have time to read, what others write about this thing, but these were only my opinions after short check here.

Good tip about raising the front wheel. I've got a very slow leak at the bead, so this will help keep the tire from getting a flat spot.

I pulled the battery and put it on a trickle charger (the type that won't overcharge and boil off the water).

Now you've got me thinking about the fuel system. I cleared all the fuel out and sprayed a small amount of silicone inside the fuel tank. I even put a small amount of armor all on the float bowl gaskets. I'm in a dry climate. Even still, I'll probably pull the covers and check inside the gas tank sometime in January to make sure things are rusting.

What's the best gas tank sealant to use, to prevent rust? And how long does it last?

I also put some fresh brake fluid in the reservoirs (didn't fully flush the system; time was running short).

THANKS for the tips!

Good tip about raising the front wheel. I've got a very slow leak at the bead, so this will help keep the tire from getting a flat spot.

I pulled the battery and put it on a trickle charger (the type that won't overcharge and boil off the water).

Now you've got me thinking about the fuel system. I cleared all the fuel out and sprayed a small amount of silicone inside the fuel tank. I even put a small amount of armor all on the float bowl gaskets. I'm in a dry climate. Even still, I'll probably pull the covers and check inside the gas tank sometime in January to make sure things are rusting.

What's the best gas tank sealant to use, to prevent rust? And how long does it last?

I also put some fresh brake fluid in the reservoirs (didn't fully flush the system; time was running short).

THANKS for the tips!

Even still, I'll probably pull the covers and check inside the gas tank sometime in January to make sure things are rusting.

I hope that is not what you really want

Best tank sealant is to fill it up to the top so there`s as little air in it as possible.
As mentioned I use fuel conditioner like this one listed here:
http://www.bevelheaven.com/stuff-for-sa ... enance.htm
and made good experiences with that. I don`t have starting problems after 6-7 months of winter storage.

Do you remove the tank in spring time to wash out the silicone you sprayed in it ?

As for starting the engine once in a while. TÜV Germany does not recommend this. Not even a short run as this will create corrosive condensation which will impact proper conservation negatively.

Remember guys, that if some water have drop to tank(what happens very easily after bike washing and fueling in rainy day), it stays under fuel just down there, where it makes corrosion. I think, its important to dry tank, to get just that(possible) water away. It makes most of that Paso tank rust. I coated last winter my 750 Paso fuel tank and seems, that it was just right manouver and propable ill coat also 907IE tank this winter. I have already all stuff for that. 907 tank is little more complicated, cause there are those pump holders, etc...