ducatipaso.org

Should the stand automatically retract when you stand the bike up? When I first obtained the bike, the springs and the curved piece of metal that the springs attach to, were up the other way. Meaning the piece of curved metal was attached to the lug on the stand it's self and the hooks on the end of the spring were attached to the lug on the bike frame. It didn't look right to me as this had the springs wrapping around the pivot bolt causing the springs to deform and sustain some damage. The picture is not very clear (Sorry), but you may notice 2 springs. One of which is inside the other. This causes the hook on the end of one of the springs to easily slip off the lug on the stand. Perhaps this is because of the damage the springs have sustained or maybe the wrong springs/setup. Can anybody offer any suggestions please?
Cheers

PS Change of topic but, what is the average cylinder compression pressure people are getting please.

Stand setup in your pic is good.
Pressure: Between 10-11 (forgotten what it`s measured in...).

Thanks for that. The stand seems unusual as it is spring loaded to the up position and requires you to precariously put the stand down while still sitting on the bike and leaning over on the stand to ensure it doesn't flip up. I guess I'll get use to it, hopefully without dropping it.
Cheers
Kirk

I got used to the auto retract 'feature' and quite like it, but I recognise many people's alternative view that it is a bit risky and if some friendly passer by nudges it towards vertical it will fall back all the way to the ground.

There is a link to a plan for a modified version of the pivot plate somewhere on this site.

Alternatively, when the bike is on the side stand you can manually pull the pivot plate out so it slips past the centre pivot bolt.
The stand will then not auto retract, but will return when you kick it with your foot - if you remember to.

I have done this when parking all day somewhere when I felt the bike might be at risk from friendly passers by and I still wanted it on the side stand.

Dave

kirk332 wrote:The stand seems unusual as it is spring loaded to the up position and requires you to precariously put the stand down while still sitting on the bike and leaning over on the stand to ensure it doesn't flip up. I guess I'll get use to it, hopefully without dropping it.

This is commonly referred to as the "sui-side" kickstand and has caused many a Duc to fall over. There are replacement bolts out there to make it work like a standard kick-stand. I think Ferracci has one on thier web site among others. You can just grind the head off of the bolt as well so the plate just goes over it.

jcslocum wrote:You can just grind the head off of the bolt as well so the plate just goes over it.

I have done this way many years ago and satisfied....

There is a link to a plan for a modified version of the pivot plate somewhere on this site.

http://www.geocities.com/750paso/paso/s ... plate.html

G.

I just bought a stock bolt from my local car dealer.
problem solved

I think there is two sides of this:

I`ve started a bike w the stand still down, felt quite lucky not to crash!
I`ll keep my suicide stand on both my Ducs.

Some good suggestions there, thanks guys!

http://www.geocities.com/750paso/paso/s ... plate.html

It is another good site for me to delve into.

It's a long road ahead. I have only just recently got the bike going after 12 years of hibernation. I have overhauled the Webber, installed new belts, adjusted valve clearances (not tight but to within specs), replaced the clutch Pac, overhauled clutch slave and master cylinders, front brake callipers and fitted a new front brake master cylinder and light switch assembly. Cleaned up all EARTHS on the frame and checked/cleaned all wiring plugs. (HIGHELY RECOMMENDED THIS ONE). Some very doggy wiring, repairs needed and green corroded connecters found. Replaced all vacuum hoses, new inlet manifold and exhaust gaskets, cleaned up all radiator hoses, new fluid and tested thermo switch, (cuts in and out at 82 degrees Celsius). New spark plugs also.

She idles nicely at about 850 RPM to 900 RPM, when warm but I have a severe flat spot from about 4500 RPM onwards when under load. A sever vibration, from the engine at around 6000 RPM. Could it be timing? I can't get the carbs to balance however they are within a ¼ of a PSI from each other and don't think this would cause my flat spots or vibration. I had to replace the original clutch basket due to 3 cracks in the mounting face which I now feel was caused from the vibrations. Also the rear wheel sprocket was very loose and the gear change lever was also very loose, both which are secured with locknuts. Again I feel these were caused from the vibration coming from the engine.

The new battery is being charged nicely, around 14.5 volts and stable at all RPM’s.

I am away from the bike ATM and won't be able to play with her for another week or so but would like to go home armed with some ideas. I haven't yet checked the compression and will be interested to check it out. Any one checked theirs lately? I’m after a figure to compare with, preferably in PSI. I guess if both cylinders are within +/- 10 PSI of each other it would indicate they are OK. She doesn’t seem to burn any oil, no smoke coming from the exhaust anyway, either during acceleration or when backing off and seems to have a fair bit of grunt up till when the flat spot kicks in anyway.

What sort of vacuum should I expect? I currently have 4 ¾ to 5 PSI.

Is there any way of testing the Digiplex unit? I have noticed there is a spare plug that connects into this unit. I’m guessing this is for a computer to connect to. Do most/all Ducati bike shops have the ability to test the units? Is there any method of connecting to a laptop and self diagnosing any issues?

Has any one done the wiring mod for the coils? I’m wondering if this is a good idea or not! The coils on most older cars, (at least the ones I have owned) have resistors on them to cut down the voltage to the coil so that they don’t receive the full 12 volts. It is, from memory, around 9 volts. I don’t really know why but it is obviously there for a reason. Is it the same for the PASO I wonder!

I have added relay for coils in my 750 Paso, but no need for that in 907IE.

kirk332 wrote: She idles nicely at about 850 RPM to 900 RPM, when warm but I have a severe flat spot from about 4500 RPM onwards when under load. A sever vibration, from the engine at around 6000 RPM.

Welcome to the pain of the Weber carb. I'd rip it out and replace it with Mikuni's or Dellorto's.

You should be measuring vacuum in Inches of Mercury, not PSI. A vacuum guage is what you need.

the trouble might be both a small grain of sand inside one of the main jets of the weber (this may happen when you disassemble it, or when it sands for quite a long time), or a digiplex mapping fault (no way to test it, but make the engine run in bad conditions and watch the spark plugs :thumbdown: )

You should be measuring vacuum in Inches of Mercury, not PSI. A vacuum guage is what you need.

I have been using a car tuning test gauge which measures both pressure and vacuum but I can't remember what the measurements are, just know that it's reading around 5 somethings. I will check it out when home next week. Ta

I gave the weber a thorough clean/soak/scrub/flush/blast of air three times over then sealed it in plastic before installing, so I am quite confident she is clean.

(no way to test it, but make the engine run in bad conditions and watch the spark plugs :thumbdown: )

Do you suggest riding the bike and then when she starts playing up, pull the clutch - switch off the motor - roll to a stop - and pull the plugs and check?
Question, do you switch the motor off with the kill switch or using the ignition key to turn off. I have read something some where that suggests using the key to turn off is better than the kill switch// WHY??

What Nicola is saying is to watch the plugs over time to see what color they become.

There is a good amount of information in the 750 Paso FAQ at the top oif the 750 forum about the weber and trying to tune it.

That's probably 5 inches Hg (mercury). I have never put a vacuum guage on my bikes only a carb stick. It's a very small manifold and only 1 cylinder so little vacuum to work with.