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Bleeding clutch
Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 4:45 am
by Moz
Hi everyone, I'm a new member from the land of vegemite (Australia) and I've just bought two low mileage 750's which I'm refurbishing. The bikes were garaged for many years prior to this strip down. The first is almost complete but I'm unable to get clutch pressure. With the cover removed the piston pumps out only 1-2mm when squeezing the lever. Does sound familiar of a known problem, or is there any special techniques required for bleeding?
Cheers Moz
Re: Bleeding clutch
Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 6:12 am
by ducapaso
No matter, well known problem:
Just bleed the pipeline at both the ends, either the "banjobolt" closr to the main cylinder and the other one on the clutch cover
Be careful not to damage the exagon bolts while you loose them!
By the way: WELCOME ON BOARD!
Re: Bleeding clutch
Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 7:55 am
by Moz
Cheers Nicola, I'll try that in the morning.
Ciao Ciao
Moz from Oz
Re: Bleeding clutch
Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 12:08 pm
by jcslocum
Moz,
A vacuum bleeder will make it much easier to get that pesky bubble oout of the line. Bleed, Bleed, Bleed.
Good luck!
Re: Bleeding clutch
Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 5:32 am
by Moz
Hi Jon, I tried under vacuum but never came good. I was using a home-made device though, so maybe I need to buy the real thing. Nonetheless I tried Nicola's suggestion this morning and it worked a treat.
Thanks guys.
Re: Bleeding clutch
Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2008 1:48 am
by Ducman
Vet's syringe and clear plastic tube will bleed it as easily as anything else and cheap is a bonus
Re: Bleeding clutch
Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 4:59 pm
by gasfireman
Just tie the lever in to the handlebars overnight and when you come back to it next day, the air bubble has often found its way out. Its worked on a few of my Ducs which must mean Im bleedin lazy.
Re: Bleeding clutch
Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 6:47 pm
by nilaus
The way I have found work for me is.:
1. Handle bar turned fully right, so that the brake head cylinder is as horizontal as it can get. ( at all time make sure that the reservoir is filled
).
2. Mount a piece of se through hose on the air bleed screw.
3. And her I usually suck the line until the fluid runs by it self into a bottle. This is to go on until there are no bobbles to be seen in the hose. Still being careful that the reservoir doesn’t go empty.
4. Then I carefully pump the lever. In some cases there will be small a resistant and in most cases there will be none. Then I put a cloth over the reservoir, to preventing it squirting all over the bike and start bleeding the clutch, by pulling the clutch lever farley quickly/hard (this will in most/all cases squirt from the reservoir) with the bleeder closed and when the lever in the bottom position, open the bleeder screw let the fluid just pas through, and then closing the bleeder screw, and then release the lever slowly. Continue this and there will slowly build up pressure on the clutch.
This procedure works for me. It will take about 15 or so minutes. if I am lucky but,,, at all time make sure that the reservoir is filled
, or els you will have to start all over again .
Pump a way
Re: Bleeding clutch
Posted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 2:46 am
by rocket_man
I just rebuilt my clutch master cylinder. After putting it back together, I had difficulties bleeding the lines: using the bleed valve. As Nicola suggested, and Moz confirmed, bleeding the fluid at the master cylinder did the trick. Pump a few times, hold clutch in, loosen line connector nut (bleed), retighten....repeat. It took me less than five minutes to get full pressure.
Thanks for the tip!
- Michael