Resrvoir bottle conversion success
Posted: Sat Apr 18, 2009 5:41 am
Hi folks.
First- thanks to John and the 907ie tech forum. The reservoir bottle redesign was fantastic.
Second- I wanted to share my experiences and the modifications that worked for me:
I removed the whole of the Y valve hose and replaced it with a single new one from an automotive parts store. No problem.
As the hose passes close by the back end of a frame bolt, I cut the end off of a vacuum plug and stuck that on the screw for abrasion protection.
As my rewervoir tank was badly cracked, I thought I'd give plastic welding a try. The material is polyethylene and nothing sticks to it. It cannot be glued. If the material is gently brought near- not to-surface melting, it can be joined with the addition of similar material. If it is melted and pools, it will not work but rather will drop away as a melting wax figure. White food grade cutting boards are said to be similar material, as are some drink containers and glue gun sticks. I sliced some pieces off of a cutting board and used that. It seemed like it worked but eventually the fluid leaked around the "fix" and I could snap off the cutting board material. I tried again with glue gun stick and it worked fantastically. One might say that the polyethylene in the glue stick is very similar to the material in the coolant reservoir.
The other significant observation that I made was that the Honda part recommended as a replacement has a cap identified with the number 1.1- as in .1 bars of pressure for the release valve. the black reservoir cap indicated .9- a 10% difference. If the plumbing of the system is overbuilt there is no problem, but if your hoses or clamps are not in good order, the extra pressure might lead to new problems. I sourced a new $8.00 .9 bar cap at Canadian Tire. It will be similarly available at your local auto parts supplier.
The fix looks like a gem. I'l be testing it out on the road tomorrow.
Again, thanks for the tech analysis and having an easy to follow plan for retrofitting the system.
Sheldon
First- thanks to John and the 907ie tech forum. The reservoir bottle redesign was fantastic.
Second- I wanted to share my experiences and the modifications that worked for me:
I removed the whole of the Y valve hose and replaced it with a single new one from an automotive parts store. No problem.
As the hose passes close by the back end of a frame bolt, I cut the end off of a vacuum plug and stuck that on the screw for abrasion protection.
As my rewervoir tank was badly cracked, I thought I'd give plastic welding a try. The material is polyethylene and nothing sticks to it. It cannot be glued. If the material is gently brought near- not to-surface melting, it can be joined with the addition of similar material. If it is melted and pools, it will not work but rather will drop away as a melting wax figure. White food grade cutting boards are said to be similar material, as are some drink containers and glue gun sticks. I sliced some pieces off of a cutting board and used that. It seemed like it worked but eventually the fluid leaked around the "fix" and I could snap off the cutting board material. I tried again with glue gun stick and it worked fantastically. One might say that the polyethylene in the glue stick is very similar to the material in the coolant reservoir.
The other significant observation that I made was that the Honda part recommended as a replacement has a cap identified with the number 1.1- as in .1 bars of pressure for the release valve. the black reservoir cap indicated .9- a 10% difference. If the plumbing of the system is overbuilt there is no problem, but if your hoses or clamps are not in good order, the extra pressure might lead to new problems. I sourced a new $8.00 .9 bar cap at Canadian Tire. It will be similarly available at your local auto parts supplier.
The fix looks like a gem. I'l be testing it out on the road tomorrow.
Again, thanks for the tech analysis and having an easy to follow plan for retrofitting the system.
Sheldon