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Gents, I'm getting ready to convert to 180/60 zr16 tyres, but it seems the bracket of the rear caliper is going to be a problem. In the past I've seen paso's with the caliper on the other side of the swingarm (downside). Only question is how to mount the bracket to the swingarm/frame. This to keep the caliper from spinning around..! Anyone experience..?

cheers Léon

how can there be a problem with the rear brake if you only change the tire ?

G.

What he said! The brake is inside the radius of the tire.

I dont understand now (i think same way, as "G"), as caliper is very far from wheel ???? How caliper can hit to new tire, but not to old tire(Michelin)??? Maybe i am very stupid now... Maybe again some misunderstood...

sorry Jon, I don`t get it. If I use the standard rim I can use any tire and will never have a problem with the rear brake. Isn`t the brake always inside the radius of the wheel/tire ? *headscratch*

G,

I was agreeing with you. The caliper is where you say it is. INDSIDE that radius...

jcslocum wrote:G,

I was agreeing with you. The caliper is where you say it is. INDSIDE that radius...

I'm converting to an 180/60 zr16 Bridgestone tyre. I don't want to change anything of the driveline, but need some space to clear the tyre from the chain. I'm going to do this by offsetting the rearwheel with 5mm. This will mean that the excenter on the 'brake side' is going to be turned down 5mm and the caliper and bracket will be fitted 5mm closer to the swing arm. No problem for the caliper, one problem for the bracket as it has now little clearance at the point it's connected with the swing. I think this is managed to install it on the downside and it looks it can be connected with the frame where the centerstand is fitted. I've seen pictures with connecting rods this way:



Only thing is that I have to make a new bracket for the calliper and I'll be needing a spacer between rear sprocket and rear wheel. I'm going to turn down an old sprocket to a width of 5mm. Last thing is an extra bushing between excenter (sprocket-side) and wheel of 5mm. That's all. Beauty of this is that only one excenter needs to be altered. The rest stays standard/original.

Anyone done this before..?

cheers! Léon

Brutus, A lot of people have trouble to get the wheels in line, because the bike behaves better.
and you are making a lot of trouble to get OUT of line??? to have a bike which walkes like a dog
on which planet are you on?? must be somewhere behind Pluto or something.

I'm gonna drink an extra glass of wine, because I had good laugh this evening.

Thank you very, Brutus. You're fun.

Ducbertus (Brrutus)

ducbertus wrote:
Brutus, A lot of people have trouble to get the wheels in line, because the bike behaves better.
and you are making a lot of trouble to get OUT of line??? to have a bike which walkes like a dog
on which planet are you on?? must be somewhere behind Pluto or something.

I'm gonna drink an extra glass of wine, because I had good laugh this evening.

Thank you very, Brutus. You're fun.

Ducbertus (Brrutus)

check the other post about 'best solution for the michelin drama'. You'll see BMW drives around for decades with the rear wheel 3 or 4cm offset due to the disbalance of the boxer. I'm allmost sure ( ) the engineering department of BMW has tested this setup.. Take another glass of wine..

G'day Brutus

Please reconsider your decision to alter the position of your back wheel.There has been many ideas and suggestions discussed on this forum about changing tyres and the associated work that has to be done to make them fit,I think your idea has to be the worst option.I have just completed my tyre mod http://forums.ducatipaso.org/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3191 and I found it to be rather easy to do and the wheels are still in line which is best,unless your a BMW owner.

Cheers Ken

I think your time and energy will be much better spent by going to 17" wheels. The Paso you showed is a 17" conversion. (GSXR wheels?)

I find it hard to believe that any motorycycle would have their wheels out of line of eachother. That BMW photo is simply a bad photo. I can take a similar photo of my bike, showing the offset on either side. You can't tell if they offset the rear wheel or not, and I have a hard time believing that they offset it at all. A bike like that rides funny. Its very easy to try out. Just adjust your rear tire so that it is close to touching the swingarm on one side and go for a ride. You will notice the difference. Tire wear is dramtically increased with tires out of line also. Probably not something you want when they are hard to get in the first place.

Spend your time putting on 17" wheels and be happy with a good tire selection.

Now engines have been offset I know, Like my 750 Sport.

Cheers,

Gents, I know the offset-option is not the perfect way to go, but it's better then a wrong driveline. I checked once again and it seems that for example the santamonica's (late '80s) had an offset rear wheel 11mm. Offcourse is a perfect setting of the wheels still the better option.. Just proving my point

Hi Brutus,

I've had my wine and now sober again.
putting the wheel off center is a way I wouldn't go.
BMW put their compleet drive train out of center to adapt wide section tyres. But the wheels itself stayed inline.
the chainline is also important. if you have the possiblity to move the rearsprocket more outside, you probably can make a special frontsprocket with the same offset as th rear sprocket. If you want to weld the frontsproket be aware that not all kind of steel good weldable. for instance C45 is widely used for sprockets, but not very good to weld.
An other solution could be to mount the 180 tyre and cut off the rubber that hits the chain.
those 5 or 6 mm of the surface edge are not the most important. But the sidewal must be untouched.
I'm curious to your final solution, Brutus.


Ducbertus

ducbertus wrote:Hi Brutus,

I've had my wine and now sober again.
putting the wheel off center is a way I wouldn't go.
BMW put their compleet drive train out of center to adapt wide section tyres. But the wheels itself stayed inline.
the chainline is also important. if you have the possiblity to move the rearsprocket more outside, you probably can make a special frontsprocket with the same offset as th rear sprocket. If you want to weld the frontsproket be aware that not all kind of steel good weldable. for instance C45 is widely used for sprockets, but not very good to weld.
An other solution could be to mount the 180 tyre and cut off the rubber that hits the chain.
those 5 or 6 mm of the surface edge are not the most important. But the sidewal must be untouched.
I'm curious to your final solution, Brutus.


Ducbertus

Taking a bit of the wheel is an option I didn't think of. This'll help for sure. I did take your advice seriously and looked further in what options would be exceptable. I've noticed that the front sprocket of an 906 is 16mm thick and the one on a paso is 12mm thick. Look below:



This could be the answer. The 4mm difference can be used to make a chamber in the sprocket. A spacer of 4mm between the rear wheel and the rear sprocket. The drive line is ok and maybe it'll need 1mm of cutting the rubber (on the side ). That would be all!!