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My Paso misfires when I turn the indicators on (but not always), and sometimes when I cancel them - (but not always...)
I had a mechanic look at it - he said he cleaned a few things and checked the earthing and thought it was OK - but it didn't fix it. I took the left-hand switch off myself - the spacer for one of the screws was free and lying across some terminals - I thought I had found the problem but it didn't fix it. I would appreciate any ideas...
Regards

you should clean all electrical contacts incl. all the grounds. Then check battery voltage and your regulator. After that measure the voltage directly at the coils. It happens that there is a 2-3V voltage drop at the coils. The easiest solution would be to add a relay to the coils that`s fed directly from the battery. I would recommend this though only after you checked everything else as this is not a real fix but a bypass of the problem.

G.

sounds like a loss of power out of the main switch. If the flasher drains the most of the energy available, it might not be enough for the ignition

I had exactly the same thing on my paso , headlights did it too .You have a poor connection in the power supply to the ciols and or the ECU , Im picking its either the connector plug to the RH switch block , or the connector to the ignition switch, (if you havnt got a wiring diagram.... get one ), best soloution is to find and repair the connector and then organise a new power feed to the ECU and the coils , via a relay

One very good way to extend the life of your switch is a pair of relays. One for the headlights and one for the coils. It is also a good idea to check every single ground and connector terminal and your wiring for the stator. If you find even one burned terminal you can bet your stator wires need attention as well.

Thanks to all for the advice - I will have a go at it and see what happens...
Take care

I do have an electrical diagram - although it is difficult to read with my failing eyesight :-) Mc Tool - what makes you say it might be the RH switch? and not something else?
I have to admit I am only a novice mechanic - would much prefer to have someone just fix it - but I am a little disappointed in what the real mechanics have been able to do so far....

Its the voltage to the Digiplex that is half the problem. Because it is the last appliance on the loom doing things like flashing the headlight or sounding the horn drops the voltage and cuts the ignition. Cure it with a relay and also check the primary coil impedance. If the coils impedance is below 1R5 change them for ones measuring about 3R5 to prevent over driving the Digiplex, Kawasaki GPZ500s coils swap over just great.

Bainesy wrote:I do have an electrical diagram - although it is difficult to read with my failing eyesight :-) Mc Tool - what makes you say it might be the RH switch? and not something else?
I have to admit I am only a novice mechanic - would much prefer to have someone just fix it - but I am a little disappointed in what the real mechanics have been able to do so far....

The kill switch works by cutting the power to the ECU. If , as mine was , the connector plug is all corroded, this can cause power supply problems too. My paso also had a bad connection at the plug for the ignition switch / main harness ( the plug itself was so hot I left fingerprints in the plastic ) this caused power problems just about everywhere else.
As for the wiring diagrams, I got the local print shop to do several blown up copies, and with a fine hi lite pen I traced out only the part of the circut I was interested in,and you can scribble notes on them.
I think that its good that you are having a go at this Bainsey , they aint magic, and you'll find it rewarding in the end

After a ride this am on my friend's 450 Ducati single (we are off to the motogiro d'Italia in June - we have sent some scramblers over and I need to practice with the gear change and brake on the opposite side..), I took the fairing off the Paso and got set to do some detective work..I pushed and pulled a few connectors, cleaned a couple of terminals and then started the engine - it started fine and there seemed to be now no issues when I either turned on, or turned off the indicators. I topped up the battery (don't know why it was a little low on acid - it is only about 6 months old) and put the fairings back on, testing the engine after each step. Finally, fully back together and all seems OK. I haven't actually taken it for a run, but at least it seems to start OK and not misfire...Don't know what I have done -??maybe the wires to the indicators were touching/shorting?? The only thing now is that the neutral light on the dash isn't working - but that happened once before and it came back again, so I am hopeful that the same might happen again>..
Thanks again for the advice - for the moment, all seems OK...
Take care...

Bainesy keep an eye on that acid level. A bad regulator can fry the battery.
Also a spill tank is a good investment and not expensive. This is a small clear plastic container/tube that connects to the overflow hose that most batteries have on the side. This will save you from having ugly white spots on the swingarm from battery acid. All it needs are 4 small holes in the plastic (rear fender/battery holder) and you can fix it with 2 cable ties.
http://www.amazon.com/MOTION-BATTERY-OV ... B0012TURJM

Also available from Bevel Heaven http://shop.bevelheaven.com/detail.aspx?ID=697

... and very easy to make such in garrage...hahahahah....

I hope you can remember which wires , connectors and terminals you wiggled / cleaned, coz you'll probly have to do it again

Mc tool wrote:I hope you can remember which wires , connectors and terminals you wiggled / cleaned, coz you'll probly have to do it again

almost all connectors!