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Esteemed 906 listers,
I went away for 2 weeks for the Easter break and before i left i made my garage and various bikes within secure with 'D locks' and chains as you do for peace of mind sake really, i also locked my bikes steering locks (those that have them) including my Paso.
On my return i unlocked everything apart from the steering lock on the Paso, it just will not disengage......... bugger
I have tried everything i know short of busting the key in the lock using pliers, and or destroying the original barrell or removing it.
Is this a common / well known problem with these models? is there a fix?
The bike stood for 10 years before i bought it and i have had the forks off etc. to replace the seals and i also replaced the steering head bearings upper and lower as they were seized. I do not recall exercising the steering lock at all before i stripped it or indeed ever, before i went away.
The only movement on the key is from the locked position to the parking lights ON position then back to lock, it will not go through the unlock stage to the OFF or IGN position and so once again i am having to resort to lifting / dragging the thing about which is not good for my glass back
Could anyone tell me what tool i would need to remove the 2 ignition unit securing bolts that fix the barrell to the underside of the top yoke i can not see the underside of them, are they the type that need drilling out?
Any advice welcome as i want to get on with my 'CB conversion'
All the best Jon

v2barn wrote: I have tried everything i know short of busting the key in the lock using pliers, and or destroying the original barrell or removing it.

Have you tried drowning it in penetrene, wd40 or the like. After 10 years of sitting it may be going the same way as your head stem bearings.

The steering lock only have two hex bolts, just lose them and the lock will come out, disconect the wiring under the headlight and remove the lock.

The lock is held in place with two shear bolts. These bolts are designed so that the hex heads shear off when torqued into place as an anti theft device. If you are lucky you might get your key out by pushing the handle bar against the lock relieving the strain on the lock cylinder allowing the key to turn. Most likely you have a wire loom pinched between the lock and the stop preventing full travel of the forks
you might be able to carefully push the wire loom down and out of the way. Be sure to check out the wire loom for pinched wires.
If that does not work you can thread a bolt with a jam nut ( or an easy out of the right size) into the shear bolt and remove it . Tap on the bolt or easy out lightly with a hammer before applying torque to it to remove the shear bolt. The shear bolts are very soft and tapping on them can help relieve stress between them and the ignition switch allowing for easier removal.
If in the end all of that fails break out a hammer and a chisel and chisel a slot in the shear bolt to allow for removal with your favorrite screw driver. Do everything you can to save the switch,they are very hard to come buy these days

Don't worry about this! The shear bolts have an M6 threaded hole, get an M6 nut and bolt, put the nut onto the bolt, wind to the top and then insert the bolt fully into the shear bolt, wind down the nut onto the sheer bolt, tighten it and 'undo' the bolt. Shear bolt comes off like magic!

Don't worry about this! The shear bolts have an M6 threaded hole, get an M6 nut and bolt, put the nut onto the bolt, wind to the top and then insert the bolt fully into the shear bolt, wind down the nut onto the sheer bolt, tighten it and 'undo' the bolt. Shear bolt comes off like magic!

This is true most of the time...most of the time they practically fall out, every once in a while you will find one where the m6 and jam nut just strips out the threads in the shear bolt or the jam nut in which case it is hammer and chisle time

JWilliam wrote:Don't worry about this! The shear bolts have an M6 threaded hole, get an M6 nut and bolt, put the nut onto the bolt, wind to the top and then insert the bolt fully into the shear bolt, wind down the nut onto the sheer bolt, tighten it and 'undo' the bolt. Shear bolt comes off like magic!

I have done the same as above twice now except I use two nuts on a M6 bolt and lock them against each other onto the shear bolt thingy. Same technique as removing or installing studs.

Well there you go , I had to drill the heads off mine as I couldnt budge them with the lock nut method, then , of course they were only finger tight .
What sort of hammer was that Higgy BF ?... ( Hi Antti )

MFBFH and a chisel and a holder ! My aim ain't what it used to be
Antti, that is my favorite big friggin hammer And since a picture is worth a thousand words..........





Also removed the headlight,better access...again my aim ain't what it used to be

that looks like harley davidson toolkit

that looks like harley davidson toolkit

Almost,missin the BFS
Antti, thats the big friggin screwdriver

Thanks everybody for the advice and the laugh i thought i was the only one with a hammer and adjustable BFS for a tool kit .
I shall be doing the evil deed on the steering lock this weekend, just when i thought i was making progress.......
Cheers all Jon

SO, how the heck did you make out. Please do tell Did you finally in anger break out the AT and burn the F=)8er to the ground or what? Pictures and details,come on you started this thread

Sorry Higgy et al. Have been otherwise engaged restoring houses rather than bikes - hope to tackle Paso lock soon, just had another little go at it, still won't budge so looks like i will be pulling front end apart.... again Cheers all Jon

just take the top clamp off , remove handle bars 1st ( without disconnecting anything if poss )