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For those that are contemplating overhauling their Paso engine I have compiled a list of roller bearings and oil seals that are required for the job. The part numbers and detail positions were taken from the original 906 parts catalog.
Enjoy!
Ken (Duc906)

Gearbox
Position.....Ducati Part #....Description.............Size...........Quantity
4.............70120011A.....Split Needle Roller....K24x28x10..........5
17............764020002.....Split Needle Roller....K22x26x10..........1
Clutch
19............46340269A........Oil Seal.............35x47x7.............1
21............751132566........Bearing.............16005................1
23............46370226A........Bearing.............6005..................1
Clutch Cover
17............937842030........Oil Seal............20x30x7..............1
26............46340477A........Oil Seal............75x95x10.............1
Timing (Belt Tensioners)
20............037029350.......Idler Roller...........?**..................2
25............751661238.......Bearing................6201-2RS2/LHT23 ................4
Crank cases
4..............751423380........Bearing.........7207 X2TB (NTN)......1
7..............751302566........Bearing............6305 C3...............2
8..............937832552........Oil Seal............25x52x7..............1
9..............757911747........Bearing............NJ203EC..............2
12............751102054........Bearing.............6004 C3..............1
30............757941542........Bearing..........RNU202 ECP............1
32............751433380........Bearing.........7307 X2TB (NTN).......1
34............937851830........Oil Seal............18x30x7...............1
Water Pump/Alternator Cover
4..............751101747........Bearing............6003 C3..............1
9..............751202374........Bearing.............6001..................2
18............937831524........Oil Seal............15x24x7..............1
26............937831624........Oil Seal............16x24x4..............1 (CORTECO 12010799B)
28............937831625........Oil Seal............16x24x7..............1 (CORTECO 12010801B)
Starter (Driven Gear)
21............061950075.......Needle Roller.....K35x40x13............2
Head Timing (Cams)
12............020470105........Oil Seal............22x35x7..............2
14............751101747........Bearing............6003 C3...............2
19............751102054........Bearing............6004 C3...............2
24............751731542........Bearing............6202 RS1 C3.........2

(As always, this info is given in good faith. All care, no responsibility)

edit by G.:
The waterpump gasket is #78810063A and the same on
Ducati 748 `99 SPS
Ducati 748 SP, Biposto
Ducati 851 Superbike Racing `91
Ducati 851 `90 SP
Ducati 851 `91-`92
Ducati 888 Superbike `92
Ducati 888 `93->
Ducati 906 Paso `88
Ducati 907 I.E. `92
Ducati 916 `94
Ducati 916 Monop.-Senna `95-
Ducati 916 SP `96
Ducati ST 2 `97

that's brilliant Ken, thank you.

Most of the bearings (actually all) can be purchased from the SKF catalogue (the Ducati bearings are SKF standard bearings) for 1/3 of the Ducati list price.

few years back I did two engines, one was my SS-Special750 and the other was an 851 and most of the bearings were the same; the total expenditure was around 130-150 US$ for SKF parts.

it is a little bit fiddly to find all the SKF part numbers as you need to remove all the bearings from the engine, but it is very duable and the saving is substantial.

Just type the bearing number into google and you will find a good loac source. For example:

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRCM2?PARTPG=GSDRVSM

now thats quite a little list there and the money saving tips are a big help too! just gotta persuade my mechanical mate that he can do it when he gets back from his holidays. what are the most difficult proceedures involved in the complete overhaul?

nnnnnnorman wrote:now thats quite a little list there and the money saving tips are a big help too! just gotta persuade my mechanical mate that he can do it when he gets back from his holidays. what are the most difficult proceedures involved in the complete overhaul?

I guess getting the crankshaft and gearbox tollerances right.

the shop manual explains everything, therefore it shouldn't be an issue.

Of course i assume you have proper tools and you know how to work on engines

apart from tolerancing (as mentioned) removing some of the bearings in blind housings can be fun.. aligning crankcases and spigots on re-assembly is another, also fitting pistons to barrels needs plenty of patience until you learn the knack - the expander springs in the oil scraper rings can be hard to compress sometimes. BTW, (in my opinion) I would definitely stick with these type of oil scraper rings and don't be tempted to use the aftermarket st. steel type.

giocast wrote:apart from tolerancing (as mentioned) removing some of the bearings in blind housings can be fun.. aligning crankcases and spigots on re-assembly is another, also fitting pistons to barrels needs plenty of patience until you learn the knack - the expander springs in the oil scraper rings can be hard to compress sometimes. BTW, (in my opinion) I would definitely stick with these type of oil scraper rings and don't be tempted to use the aftermarket st. steel type.

For the Pistons the best is fitting them in the cilinders half way leaving exposed the piston pin hole.

then fit the assembly on the conrods remembering to put the seegers correctly and being very carefull with the ORINGS in the oil passages when you push down the barrels on the crankcase.

One thing.... the old engines had a gasket between the two halves of the crankcase, now that has been replaced with a grey silicon paste (Ducati part, you can buy it at the store)

The paste is MUCH better than the old gasket and if put correctly will not leak...

angelix wrote:

For the Pistons the best is fitting them in the cilinders half way leaving exposed the piston pin hole.

agree.. by far the easiest way - have to remember to nudge the piston down the bore very carefully as in order to fully expose the small end gudgeon pin hole (in piston) ready to fit pin, the oil scraper is extremely close to popping out of the bore! (so back to square one )

thanks for the tips guys sounds a little tricky in places!!!!!!!

For the Pistons the best is fitting them in the cilinders half way leaving exposed the piston pin hole

+1.

But do put rags over crank, you don`t wanna loose the gudgeon pin clip in there!
It could fly anywhere if you loose it in the critical moment....

Tamburinifan wrote:

For the Pistons the best is fitting them in the cilinders half way leaving exposed the piston pin hole

+1.

But do put rags over crank, you don`t wanna loose the gudgeon pin clip in there!
It could fly anywhere if you loose it in the critical moment....

yeah right... and keep count of how many you HAVE and how many you FIT....

Long time ago while reassembling my RD350 with Wiseco pistons I ended with a circlip laying around workbench just minutes before starting the engine after a complete overhaul.

So, I had to reopen it (a pain as it implies the removal of the YPVS) and check if all the clips were fitted....

of course those funny guys at wiseco had 5 put in the box (instead of 4) so I opened the engine for nothing...

of course those funny guys at wiseco had 5 put in the box (instead of 4) so I opened the engine for nothing...

Blues song Born Under A Bad Sign comes to mind:
"If it wasn`t for bad luck, I wouldn´t have no luck at all"

This ring compressor has been real handy over the years. The band is about 35mm wide and comes apart, and can be fed in round studs, clamp the rings and slide cylinder over the rings then remove compressor

a good piece of teflon or delran and a few well placed wire ties can do the trick in a pinch .......