This is a winter time job I think. But it is much more complex than simply doing that, as CB discovered with his D250. I'll see how this works, and if it doesn't break, I won't mess with it.Duc906 wrote:1) Turn the sprocket back the right way and get a proper spacer made to go between the sprocket & carrier.
It's 2mm. Engineers I have spoken to outside of this forum, including a guy who worked with chains for 20 years says "2mm over a reach that long is a non-issue."Duc906 wrote:2) Check the alignment between front & back sprockets. Anything over 1mm needs attention.
I think loose washers isn't such a good idea. I'll just not use any at all.Duc906 wrote:3) Loose the washers.
Thanks everyone - for all your input. I have learned several valuable lessons here!
1) Don't just tell a bike shop to do some modification without doing any research first, or at least looking at the parts for myself.
2) Don't trust a bike shop to use an appropriate bolt. It was they who installed the cap-screws instead of bolts with shanks.
3) Don't replace bolts without first checking to see if the bolts are appropriate for the job.
4) Don't use grease on bolts. Use locktite instead.
5) Don't add parts unnecessarily. I added washers. Probably a bad idea.
6) Do use the proper torque wrench to apply the correct torques.
Does that cover it?