ducatipaso.org

I guess I need a crankshaft turning tool. Can anyone tell me if the ones for the current models are the same as my 1988 750? If not where do I get one? Or maybe I dont even need a special tool for mine?

I need to adjust the timing. I did find the belts through info here. After the timing is set I may need to do some carb work. it's a weber. Yay

Any help before a long search of info on the carb would be great.

Anyone know where to get decals for a 750 Paso? It's being repainted after it's running well.

http://www.srsigndesign.com/index.html
Made my decals, near Pittsburg if I remember correctly. Pictures -
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=3 ... 51b4d385e6

21783mike wrote:http://www.srsigndesign.com/index.html
Made my decals, near Pittsburg if I remember correctly. Pictures -
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=3 ... 51b4d385e6

I went to the site. i like some of the decals. None of them say Paso though.

What about the tool?

on the last pages of the cam timing document there´s a drawing of the crankshaft turning tool if you know a shop that can make it for you. http://www.box.net/shared/76966gjgn8

Otherwise there´s ebay. Here`s the whole set
http://cgi.ebay.com/DUCATI-BEVEL-BELT-D ... 19c489f28f

you can find the decals on ebay, too
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ducati-750-Paso-dec ... 5198ac5bb8

G.

Hi Chasaduc, The factory has run a couple of different jetting setups in the webers on the 750.
Before the middle of 1987 the jetting was 142 mains,160 air correctors and 60 idles.This would have been very rich down low with th 60 idles and stumbled around the 2500 - 3000 rpm mark.Today I ran 145,160,55 as an experiment and there was a tendency to go a bit lean around the middle of the rev range.The 60 idles would have fixed this problem,so this jetting was probably fine through the rest of the rev range aside from the rich stumble.
After the middle of 1987 the jetting was 150 mains,170 air correctors and 57 idles.They reduced the size of the idles,IMHO to alleviate the rich stumble,but this would have leaned the middle of the rev range, so they increased the main jets by almost two full sizes,while increasing the air correctors by less than one size,this would have richened the whole upper power band up especially wide open throttle.
I am currently running 150 mains,160 air correctors and 55 idles,this is richer than factory across the middle and top end of the rev range,but will hopefully allow me to drop down to a 54 or 53 idle as I still have a rich stumble condition at 2500 - 3000 (if I open the throttle quickly the accelerator pump shot causes the problem).A 50 idle creates a lean condition at 5000-5500 rpm,which is difficult to get rid of so is too small.
The current jetting is perfect for my bike when cold,but when hot is just a tiny bit rich.If I can't get rid of the rich stumble by reducing the idles,I will stick with this jetting and play with float levels,accelerator pump jets and emulsion tubes to fine tune it. I think this would be a good starting point for you if you are not happy with how your weber is running,but it is hard to say without knowing your climate and altitude.Idle jets are only about $3.00 each on ebay so buying a half dozen to play with won't break the bank and they are very easy to change without dismantling the carby.The jets are available in single increments and it is amazing the difference 4 or 5 sizes of idle jet can make to the running of your bike,when you start to get close to a correct size.

In my experience using a lamda meter as a guide,a stumble down low (2500 - 3000) is a rich problem,remedied by reducing idle jet size and a stumble up higher (4500-5500) is a lean condition,that can be fixed by increasing idle jet size,the trick I think is finding the balance point,which makes the bike most rideable and then fine tuning the other variables(main jet,air correctors float levels etc.)
Hope this wasn't too confusing and is of some help to you. Jay.

the tool in the us can be had at bevel heaven, california cycle works or desmotimes for about 70 bucks

chasaduc wrote:

21783mike wrote:http://www.srsigndesign.com/index.html
Made my decals, near Pittsburg if I remember correctly. Pictures -
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=3 ... 51b4d385e6

I went to the site. i like some of the decals. None of them say Paso though.

What about the tool?

Just shoot him an email.... he made them for me.... tank decal is Item # Duc67 the rest just send him some details as mine is a Limited so decals are just a bit different..... I had red and green stripes done in paint. FYI unless changed the ebay ones had Red and Green reversed on stripes I think....

higgy wrote:the tool in the us can be had at bevel heaven, california cycle works or desmotimes for about 70 bucks

hey thanks all for the many repiles. I am sorry to sound mean but in my post I did say is the same tool used for turning over a paso 750 as the new bikes. I was told there are parts on ebay and on ca cycleworks They are for new bikes. I was also told on bevel drive where I bought my belts they have them. Well to be honest I searched and search and couldnt find them there. The crankshaft turning tool that I keep finding is for newer models.

Grrrrrrrrr. the http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/kandl-supp ... cati-tools
actually said "all models click here for more info." I clicked and said something about all models after 1999. That was yesterday. It's changed.

This is really why i asked. Is it really all models? or just newer.

The paso is not a ducati. Now hear me out! Please? It's a ducati engine and a ducati body. but owned by cagvia.

I am forgiving of this because it's a ducati. period. before that cagvia said ok let me buy your engines. Thats what a ducati is! Gagvia bought Ducati!

Ford, GM, Chrysler were all made in forgein countries. Toyota, Honda? Made in the USA. Yet are foreign cars!

Why does it matter with a Ducatti?

Back to my point. When I was Ducatti making engines for cagvia I might do things different. To make their life hard.

So again what engine or crank turning tool do they use?

Good news!!!!! You don't really need a turning tool to perform this job on ANY Ducati. I own three, an F1, a Paso 750 and a MTS 1000 I do all their maintenance work..... and a bit more!

The timing pulleys marks are there for the Horizontal cylinder ONLY. You just need to find the right position for the vertical one. As timing pulleys turn at half the speed (and therefore turn 360º for every 720º the crankshaf does, being a 4 stroke engine) and ignition timingbetween both cylinders is separated by 270º (360º - 90º), the mark you need you make on the pulleys is 135º off the existing mark. Yes but.... clockwise or anticlockwise? well, it's clockwise the existing marks, but it's really easy to check knowing what you're looking for:

1- Remove spark plugs.
2- engage 1st gear.
3- turn timing pulleys 135º, no matter the direction.
4- insert anscrewdriver through the vertical cylinder spark plug hole. If the piston is right there, it's in TDC (both valves closed, ther's another TDC in a 4 stroke engine) and therefore in the right position. If not, it's 135º in the other direction from the timing marks.

Once this done, next time you just need to remove spark plugs, engage 1st and turn the rear wheel by hand to take timign pulleys to the right position. Easy & cheap.

to my knowledge the same tool fits all 2 valve belt drive Ducati engines

I made my own from parts I had laying around


If you want to do your cam timing properly and accurately the tool will make it much simpler and more accurate than the factory markings which can be off by as much as 8 degrees, true for any engine
Also when making final measurements once true tdc is located you must rotate the engine in its natural direction to be accurate

Speaking of just turning the rear tire (that's a great idea by the way!) What is the trick on getting this up on its center stand?

higgy wrote:to my knowledge the same tool fits all 2 valve belt drive Ducati engines

I made my own from parts I had laying around


If you want to do your cam timing properly and accurately the tool will make it much simpler and more accurate than the factory markings which can be off by as much as 8 degrees, true for any engine
Also when making final measurements once true tdc is located you must rotate the engine in its natural direction to be accurate

when you mention "tool" for accuracy. Which tool are you referring to exactly? I ask because just the engine turning tool can't be enough to tell me true accuracy.

It is the collection of tools required and their setup that will provide the accuracy required.
I simply meant the crankshaft turning tool will make it much easier to do the entire process,. A lot easier to do, especially if you have never done this sort of thing before.
there are of course "many ways to skin a cat"
turning the rear tire will work
sticking a bolt with a jam nut in the end of the crank will also work,you could even skip the jam nut and do the entire job with nothing but a couple of wrenches and a pencil. Hell skip the pencil and just eyeball TDC.
Or you could take it to your local dealer and let them do it for what ever they charge
It's all good

Also relying on the factory marks works,it is just not the best way if you are looking to fix a perceived problem with the way the bike runs.

If you need more info, Kens procedure is an excellent place to start and will cost you no more than the time it takes to get it and read it

Speaking of just turning the rear tire (that's a great idea by the way!) What is the trick on getting this up on its center stand?

An excellent question. The first time I attempted to put a bike on the center stand I grabbed the bike from behind and stretched my leg as far as I could to push on the centerstand. Almost dropped me and the bike on a very busy street.
An elderly gentleman,with a smile asked if he could help. With one finger and his leg he easily hoisted the bike up on its stand.


The trick is to use your leg to do the work,not your arms or your back. If you are right handed.
Grab the small handle under the side panel with your right hand.
With your right foot lower the centerstand till it contacts the ground and holds the bike squarely on both sides of the stand
Stand as straight up as you can and push with your foot

Its easy but will take some practice. If your are uncertain,have a buddy hold the bike upright by the rear grab handle while you try it out .

higgy wrote:It is the collection of tools required and their setup that will provide the accuracy required.
I simply meant the crankshaft turning tool will make it much easier to do the entire process,. A lot easier to do, especially if you have never done this sort of thing before.
there are of course "many ways to skin a cat"
turning the rear tire will work
sticking a bolt with a jam nut in the end of the crank will also work,you could even skip the jam nut and do the entire job with nothing but a couple of wrenches and a pencil. Hell skip the pencil and just eyeball TDC.
Or you could take it to your local dealer and let them do it for what ever they charge
It's all good

Also relying on the factory marks works,it is just not the best way if you are looking to fix a perceived problem with the way the bike runs.

If you need more info, Kens procedure is an excellent place to start and will cost you no more than the time it takes to get it and read it

Hey I have an idea! Come on over and show me how to do it!

I was kidding. But hey if you are that bored and want to come to ohio?
I was asking about the "tools" as opposed to one tool. Would these be the tools you speak of? http://cgi.ebay.com/DUCATI-BEVEL-BELT-D ... 19c489f28f
Do you know of a better place to get them all together in one package? Cheaper?
I would like to be more exact. the mark for 1 cam and tdc almost line up. The other one is off a tooth. here is another way to skin a cat. Take paper and a straight edge and a pen and draw dots. Seems like it's off. Then I thought hey! Hit the starter button until the crank finally lands on TDC mark. It was like playing wheel of fortune!

I would take it to a dealer but that would cost more than the tools. Plus that would mean I failed. I have only had 1 vehicle that I gave up on. 1979 Triumph TR7. At the time it was not worth the work or prices for the parts to put into it. But in the end I sold the car and the For 302 I was going to put in it for more than I bought them for.

About the center stand? i will try that. I do have a question though. You said right side handle. My bike has what looks like a foot rest on the left. It is self retracting. In the user manual it is called something like a center stand helper. Is that the handle you speak of?

Who is ken?