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Rear Brake Caliper Bolt problem

Posted: Sat Aug 03, 2013 8:27 pm
by paulmozzi
Hi guys, I was wondering if any of you had a problem breaking the rear caliper bolt loose that is closest to the rear brake pedal. My 6mm socket is to long, and I am having trouble finding a short bit. If I use a long bit, I don't get a good bite on the bolt. I don't want to strip the bolt head. Do I need to take off the muffler? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Have a great weekend.
Cheers Paul :beer:

Re: Rear Brake Caliper Bolt problem

Posted: Sat Aug 03, 2013 11:27 pm
by Mc tool
Had me thinking there, 6mm ? .... but 907 not 906 ( duh :) ) , removing a muffler is a hassle , would it be possible to remove a rear suspension linkage bolt to drop the swing arm down a bit ( top shock bolt is probly the easiest ) . I have a few tools that have been modified for a specific job and shortening /bending allen keys isn't hard ..... and you can still use em for other jobs :)

Re: Rear Brake Caliper Bolt problem

Posted: Sun Aug 04, 2013 8:01 am
by nickta
Hi Paul.

Just had a look at B1, just to make sure. I have a set of long arm Allen keys, which have a long length about twice the length of a normal Allen key. It fits like a glove in the bolt, and gives you heaps more leverage in cracking the bolt. Another option is to get a 3/8" socket with Allen key ends. To sneak in past the Exhaust can you need a small uni joint and a short (4") extension. You don't get as much leverage on the bolt, but works OK at a pinch.

Out of curiosity, do you still have the original mufflers on the bike, or aftermarket? The above works with a set of Staintunes on the bike.

Cheers.

Nick.

Re: Rear Brake Caliper Bolt problem

Posted: Sun Aug 04, 2013 10:24 am
by paso750
Hamish, if removing one bolt and loosening one clamp is a hassle you definitely need to get back to working on your bikes more often :-P ;)

G.

Re: Rear Brake Caliper Bolt problem

Posted: Sun Aug 04, 2013 12:02 pm
by Mc tool
You forgot to mention all the wriggling and pulling to get it off and then cleaning and resealing the joint , otherwise it backfires on over run .
Ive been building headers for my car engine and have rediscovered that cap screws can be a pain in the arse if you don't have straight on access or close to it ( manifold flange bolts )

Re: Rear Brake Caliper Bolt problem

Posted: Sun Aug 04, 2013 2:51 pm
by paulmozzi
Thank you guys. The bike has an Aftermarket Exhaust. The cans are carbon fiber. But there is no plate on them. I tried using a long 6mm bit, but it goes into the bolt on an angle. My normal 6mm socket is a bit to long. I will try a 6mm allen wrench, or see if I can find a short 6mm socket. I want to try to be as straight as possible. The only reason I was wanting to try a socket, is the bolts are really snug on there. I had to use a lot of force to break the other one free. With an allen wrench, I don't know if I will get the leverage I need. If all else fails, I will try to drop the swing arm. You guys are the best.
Cheers Paul :thumbup:

Re: Rear Brake Caliper Bolt problem

Posted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 4:22 pm
by persempre907
paso750 wrote:Hamish, if removing one bolt and loosening one clamp is a hassle you definitely need to get back to working on your bikes more often :-P ;)

G.
Hey G.
me and nojapan did'nt manage to take the mufflers apart when we replaced the swingarm!
Luckily, I had another full exhaust... where we fitted the 2in2 Contis :cool: :cool: :cool: :cool:
Ciao

Re: Rear Brake Caliper Bolt problem

Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 2:44 am
by Stingray230SX
If you can get the short end of the allen wrench on there, you can use a box end wrench [closed end] over the long end of the allen wrench to give you some leverage. [this of course if you cant source a allen wrench on a socket or cant get anything else in there]


doug