Hello pasofreaks,
I need to change the oil of my recently bought paso of '90.
In the owners manual they speak of the following oil :
AGIP SINT 2000-SAE 10W/40 or CASTROL GTX2 turbo-tested SAE
20W/50.
Do you use this kind of oil, or some other kind ? I live in Belgium,
and the wheater conditions here are far from the same as in
Italy.
Mineral Oil, or synthetic oil or half synthetic oil, can you please
give me a direction ?
Thanks,
Steven
What kind of Oil ?
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jpring
Hello, I wasn't going to answer this because I just asked this question in a post last week...Anyways what I was told buy "skins" a highly regarded member of this forum was that he uses and recommeds Penzoil 5W-50 fully synthetic... I couldn't find this localy, so I'm now using Rotella 5W-40 full synthetic in my Paso. I hope this helps, and welcome to the forum. 
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Finnpaso
- paso grand pooh-bah
- Posts: 3090
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- year: 0
- Location: Finland
Earlier Mobil 1 fully synthetic 5W-50, but now Shell Advance Ultra 4 fully synthetic 20W-50, what is better! Gearchange noises are much more lower now (in my both 750 Paso and 907IE)
Finnpaso
(in my both 750 Paso and 907IE)Finnpaso
Last edited by Finnpaso on Fri Nov 04, 2005 9:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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fasterdammit
- paso grand pooh-bah
- Posts: 708
- Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 12:00 am
- model: 750 Paso
- year: 1988
- Location: CNY, US
- Contact:
I've been using Golden Spectro 20-50 synth-blend with great success, too. But I've been considering my options ... next season may bring something altogether after a mild tear-down this winter ...
Just because you're not dead doesn't necessarily mean you're living, either.
1988 Paso 750 #753965
1997 Monster 750
1988 Paso 750 #753965
1997 Monster 750
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DucatiDan
Just make sure you use 100 % synthetic. I use motul or amsoil 10/40. Synthetic 100% is the word because it holds the contaminants ( dirt )in suspension and when you do an oil change the bad stuff goes out with the old oil and doesn't stay on the bottom of the motor like the basic oil. Some people say that you can use a standard 10 40 but will have to change it more often. I stick with what the factory says and the Motul has been good.
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paso750
- paso grand pooh-bah
- Posts: 5558
- Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2004 12:00 am
- model: 750 Paso
- year: 1987
- Location: southern Germany
Beware that specially on an older engine you should not run full synth oil if it was driven with mineral oil before. The other way around is no problem. (Synth blend is ok though) I`ve driven Castrol mineral oil forever and never had any problems with it on no bike. Quality standards are very high and except you race your bike you probably will only experience minimal differences if at all.
It`s absolutely correct that it should be changed regularly. There won`t be any dirt in the oil if the filters are changed regularly also and the oil change is done with a warm engine.
We just took my engine apart for rebuild and tuning and it looked perfect inside. Now that is was disassembled, cleaned and reassembled I will switch to synth oil also. (AGIP SINT)
Some engine shops recommended the use of mineral oil for the break in period, but I don`t know ...
Gerhard
PS: I admit there are realizable differences on engines with wet clutches
It`s absolutely correct that it should be changed regularly. There won`t be any dirt in the oil if the filters are changed regularly also and the oil change is done with a warm engine.
We just took my engine apart for rebuild and tuning and it looked perfect inside. Now that is was disassembled, cleaned and reassembled I will switch to synth oil also. (AGIP SINT)
Some engine shops recommended the use of mineral oil for the break in period, but I don`t know ...
Gerhard
PS: I admit there are realizable differences on engines with wet clutches
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paso750
- paso grand pooh-bah
- Posts: 5558
- Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2004 12:00 am
- model: 750 Paso
- year: 1987
- Location: southern Germany
just found:
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Using synthetic-oil in engine break-ins
By Road & Track, Technical Correspondence Column, July 2000 issue
Many readers have questioned us on engine break-in procedures when using synthetic oil. Conventional wisdom has it that a new or freshly rebuilt engine should be broken in using mineral oil, then, once enough mileage has accumulated to ensure rings and cylinder walls have lapped themselves into harmony, synthetic oil can be used.
Readers have correctly pointed out that several major brands come from the factory with synthetic oil, among these being Corvette, Mercedes-Benz and Viper. How can these engines break-in if run on synthetic oil from day one, they ask?
To find out, we spoke with Mobil and Redline Oil companies for their take on the synthetic break-in question. Mobil's response was that engines break-in just fine on synthetics, and that any wear point in the engine significant enough to be an interference, and thus susceptible to rapid wear, would be a wear point no matter what lubricant is used.
Redline, on the other hand, has found it best to recommend a mineral oil break-in. Occasionally an engine will glaze its cylinder walls when initially run on Redline, they say, so by using a mineral oil for 2000 miles, verifying there is no oil consumption and then switching to the synthetic, glazing is eliminated.
Cylinder-wall glazing is not a deposit left on the cylinder wall, but rather a displacement of cylinder-wall metal. This happens when the high spots of the cylinder wall crosshatch are not cut or worn off by the piston rings, but rather rolled over into the valleys or grooves of the crosshatch. This leaves a surface that oil adheres to poorly, against which the rings cannot seal well. Compression is lost and oil consumed, and the only cure is to tear down the engine to physically restore the cylinder-wall finish by honing.
Why is glazing not a problem for the major manufacturer? Because they have complete, accurate control over their cylinder-wall finish and ring type. Redline deals with a huge variety of engines and manufacturers, both OEM and from the aftermarket. Cylinder-wall finish and ring type thus vary greatly, and glazing can therefore occur, albeit rarely.
While we were at it, we queried about synthetic oil-change intervals. Mobil says to use the maximum change interval specified by the engine manufacturer, regardless of oil type. Redline said that once past an OEM warranty, anywhere from 10,000 to 18,000 miles, or one year, whichever comes first, is appropriate depending on conditions (dust, short trips). They also recommend changing just the oil filter at 6000 to 7000 miles as a precaution against overloading the filter. Redline further noted a caution when using synthetics with leaded fuels, as synthetics do not hold lead in suspension as well as mineral oil. Aviation is one area where leaded fuel is still widespread, and avgas is often used by off-road and racing enthusiasts, so a relatively short oil change interval may thus be indicated.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Synthetic Break-in
By Tom Wilson
Road & Track, Technical Correspondence Column, November 2001 issue
Exxon/Mobil's official policy is that their synthetic oil may be used at any mileage, including factory fill, unless otherwise stated by the vehicle manufacturer. Mobil pointed out, as you did, that all Corvettes, Vipers, Porsches and Aston Martins are factory filled with Mobil 1 synthetic. We can only conclude that improvements in cylinder-wall finish and ring design or materials makes this possible.
It is also likely that vehicle manufacturers not using synthetics as the factory fill are also not optimizing their cylinder and ring packages for the slippery sythetics, in which case approximately 1000 miles on mineral oil should prove ample break-in time. In fact, in modern engines a very high percentage of ring break-in takes place very quickly, probably in the first 10 to 20 minutes of engine running. Certainly, some final lapping of the rings and cylinders takes place over several hundred miles after initial break-in.
Just to add some confusion, Porsche dynos all of its engines before installing them in the chassis. We were unable to determine what oil is used for the dyno session, but would presume it's Mobil 1
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Using synthetic-oil in engine break-ins
By Road & Track, Technical Correspondence Column, July 2000 issue
Many readers have questioned us on engine break-in procedures when using synthetic oil. Conventional wisdom has it that a new or freshly rebuilt engine should be broken in using mineral oil, then, once enough mileage has accumulated to ensure rings and cylinder walls have lapped themselves into harmony, synthetic oil can be used.
Readers have correctly pointed out that several major brands come from the factory with synthetic oil, among these being Corvette, Mercedes-Benz and Viper. How can these engines break-in if run on synthetic oil from day one, they ask?
To find out, we spoke with Mobil and Redline Oil companies for their take on the synthetic break-in question. Mobil's response was that engines break-in just fine on synthetics, and that any wear point in the engine significant enough to be an interference, and thus susceptible to rapid wear, would be a wear point no matter what lubricant is used.
Redline, on the other hand, has found it best to recommend a mineral oil break-in. Occasionally an engine will glaze its cylinder walls when initially run on Redline, they say, so by using a mineral oil for 2000 miles, verifying there is no oil consumption and then switching to the synthetic, glazing is eliminated.
Cylinder-wall glazing is not a deposit left on the cylinder wall, but rather a displacement of cylinder-wall metal. This happens when the high spots of the cylinder wall crosshatch are not cut or worn off by the piston rings, but rather rolled over into the valleys or grooves of the crosshatch. This leaves a surface that oil adheres to poorly, against which the rings cannot seal well. Compression is lost and oil consumed, and the only cure is to tear down the engine to physically restore the cylinder-wall finish by honing.
Why is glazing not a problem for the major manufacturer? Because they have complete, accurate control over their cylinder-wall finish and ring type. Redline deals with a huge variety of engines and manufacturers, both OEM and from the aftermarket. Cylinder-wall finish and ring type thus vary greatly, and glazing can therefore occur, albeit rarely.
While we were at it, we queried about synthetic oil-change intervals. Mobil says to use the maximum change interval specified by the engine manufacturer, regardless of oil type. Redline said that once past an OEM warranty, anywhere from 10,000 to 18,000 miles, or one year, whichever comes first, is appropriate depending on conditions (dust, short trips). They also recommend changing just the oil filter at 6000 to 7000 miles as a precaution against overloading the filter. Redline further noted a caution when using synthetics with leaded fuels, as synthetics do not hold lead in suspension as well as mineral oil. Aviation is one area where leaded fuel is still widespread, and avgas is often used by off-road and racing enthusiasts, so a relatively short oil change interval may thus be indicated.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Synthetic Break-in
By Tom Wilson
Road & Track, Technical Correspondence Column, November 2001 issue
Exxon/Mobil's official policy is that their synthetic oil may be used at any mileage, including factory fill, unless otherwise stated by the vehicle manufacturer. Mobil pointed out, as you did, that all Corvettes, Vipers, Porsches and Aston Martins are factory filled with Mobil 1 synthetic. We can only conclude that improvements in cylinder-wall finish and ring design or materials makes this possible.
It is also likely that vehicle manufacturers not using synthetics as the factory fill are also not optimizing their cylinder and ring packages for the slippery sythetics, in which case approximately 1000 miles on mineral oil should prove ample break-in time. In fact, in modern engines a very high percentage of ring break-in takes place very quickly, probably in the first 10 to 20 minutes of engine running. Certainly, some final lapping of the rings and cylinders takes place over several hundred miles after initial break-in.
Just to add some confusion, Porsche dynos all of its engines before installing them in the chassis. We were unable to determine what oil is used for the dyno session, but would presume it's Mobil 1