clutch problems

bavarian · Post by **bavarian** » Mon Nov 14, 2005 10:42 pm

It is nearly impossible to find neutral on my Paso. Today was the first time I got to take it for a ride as I was delayed a while due to registering issues. Its a little more exciting than my Beemers! Do you guys normally tap the selector out of second and into neutral when pulling up to a light, or do you select neutral once you have come to a complete stop. I'm used to riding my Beemers which prefer selecting it once I'm stopped. I also noticed letting the clutch out slightly and trying to shift didn't help either. On one occasion the clutch lost pressure and started to reengage first gear. What is the most likely cause of this? Air in the system possibly? The only way I've been able to select neutral is to rock the bike back and forth while releasing the clutch slightly.

KillerB · Post by **KillerB** » Tue Nov 15, 2005 5:30 pm

Hi, bavarian

I find the easiest way to find neutral is to be moving slightly forward and knocking it in from first gear. Your pressure loss could possibly be air in the system, so you might be best to bleed it first.

Regards, B

750pheonix · Post by **750pheonix** » Tue Nov 15, 2005 9:26 pm

I recently had a read through my 750 handbook and that had a diagram showing that the lever went forwards rather than a half up from first as it has been on other bikes i have known... is it forward or is this just the diagram?

Post by **jcslocum** » Wed Nov 16, 2005 12:11 am

It's most definitely UP from first. It sounds like you need to bleed it so that you have more movement of the clutch plates.

lceriani · Post by **lceriani** » Thu Nov 17, 2005 1:30 pm

Check also clucth plates thikness: when mine wore out I had a similar problem.

LC

bavarian · Post by **bavarian** » Thu Nov 17, 2005 11:56 pm

I bet the problem is because of a worn clutch as the bike has 20K on it. Also the clutch grabs unevenly when pulling from a stop instead of the smooth slippage that I think I should get.

davidhughrose · Post by **davidhughrose** » Sun Nov 20, 2005 3:07 am

Lucky you; pulling your clutch pack out is a really easy job thanks to the Paso dry clutch. Have you checked things out yet & how did everything look & measure up?

bavarian · Post by **bavarian** » Sun Nov 20, 2005 8:29 pm

I 'm going to tear into the clutch when I return next week. I'll be sure to post my findings. Also, are there any special tools required such as the clutch hub holding tool, or can I improvise easily enough? What is the best clutch kit that I can get? Will I need to replace the springs as well? I have no experience with a clutch pack as I'm used to the car style clutches on my Beemers.

DucatiDan · Post by **DucatiDan** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 1:03 am

Hi I had a similar problem, I thought it was an air leak ( nope ) then I checked the thickness on plates ( nope not that either) then my mechanic took one of the plates and the fiber was so soft that he could pick it off with his finger nail. I went to the local Ducati shop and paid through the nose for a new clutch fibre and plate set. Now it works fantastic. For some reason it was a different set than the stock ones I took out of the bike?, Ducati said this was the new number and set for my bike so it looks to me that they have changed design? Anyway it works so i am happy

Post by **paso750** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 8:20 pm

I drive my second set of ADIGE discs. As far as I know these are original equipment. SURFLEX should be good, but are more expensive.
I`ve read less good things about Barnett clutches but I have no personal experiences at all.

You don`t need no special tool for the job.

To bleed the clutch remove the clutch cover, "pump" the clutch while you keep your thumb on the slave cylinder. Do this gently and beware that the cylinder does not pop out. Then gently press it in with your thumb again. The cover of the clutch (master) pump should be mounted but not tightened with its screws to allow some air to come out while not squirting brake fluid all over.

Repeat this a couple of times after having bled the clutch the usual way. This will remove the last air bubbles.

For the first bleeding I personally always do the same procedure holding the cover as high as the clutch line allows. Then I keep one thumb on the piston while I pump with the other hand. Keeping the (finger) pressure on the cylinder I then open the bleeding screw while pushing the piston in.

Of course it`s not the easiest way and better to do in 2 but it`s definetely the best and fastest way to get all the air out of the system! If anyone has some doubts - try it

A vented clutch cover makes it better to hold btw

Does your clutch lose any fluid inside the clutch cover ?
The squealing may come from the bearing in the slave piston. If you can`t remove it you probably will have to replace the whole piston. Check the "750 Paso Technical FAQ Digest" topic.

Gerhard

Post by **paso750** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 8:24 pm

Just noted that the squeaking noise was mentioned in another clutch post so I hope "naster" reads this also

lceriani · Post by **lceriani** » Wed Nov 23, 2005 1:42 pm

I tried both original and Surflex disc pack, but I found little difference in "common use".
You can find two kinds of disc pack: alluminium and steel. Alluminium is lighter but wear out quickly and costs more.
As a rule of thumb, I suggest that the disc material should be the same as the clutch basket: alluminium with alluminium and steel with steel. Don't mount alluminium disc with the original steel basket (or viceversa) or the alluminium part will wear out even quicker.
Unfortunately, I did it and I can confirm that it's true...

About the spring: check their lenght and verify if it's in the manual specification. If not, you should change them, too.

Bye,

LC

Post by **jcslocum** » Wed Nov 23, 2005 2:01 pm

You will also need to check that the steel plates are flat and not warped. This will also cause some drag causing the hard to find neutral.

The stock and Barnett clutch packs are both very good.