Best voltalge regulator suggestions

[du907]

My battery light stays on sometimes from idle to about 3500 rpm. The battery is charging. I can ride all day and the battery light goes on and off. lights dim with the turn signals. I have no brake lights, switches are checking out OK. Sometimes the light comes on at idle, sometimes not.
Thanks
du907

[higgy]

would recommend you do a thorough charging system check before replacing the regulator. Stators and wiring are more often the issue with these bikes. All the info you need can be found here. https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/


to answer our question Shindengen SH847 is currently the best although cheaper options can work.

check out https://roadstercycle.com/ for good kits.

I did my 907 a few years back and have had zero charging issues since.

[du907]

Higgy,
Found the stator wire plugs melted where they plug into the voltage regulator plug at the steering head. This is not the first time. Put voltage meter at battery and at rest have about 13.14 volts. Start the engine and volts go up a little over 14 which seems to be normal after a start up. Then voltage comes back down. Rev the engine and voltage stays around 14, rev the engine real high and voltage still stays around 14 as the regulator is recharging the battery after start up. All seems normal except the wires are really warm. I added a piece of asbestos between the wires to see if that will keep them from melting together. The wires from the voltage regulator to the plug are a smaller gauge than the wires from the stator. I'm hoping fixing the plugs will fix my flickering battery light but will not be able to test until I finish changing my fork seals. Maybe I need a regulator that works cooler to prevent the wires from over heating.

[higgy]

My 907 when I first got it would not hit 14 volts till 4000rpm. Left me stranded more than once on the side of the road hundreds of miles from home. Its to be expected of a 23 year old charging system(2015~). After much research and testing replaced the entire charging system. Stator,wiring and regulator. I tried a few different regulators before deciding to replace it all. In the end I had the stator rewound and went with a shendengen regulator. removed all the connections between the regulator and stator as well. At the same time I added relays and a new fuse box. I have had zero issues since. That"s 8 years plus with no issues whatsoever. I even added heated grips for those colder trips. These days I get 13+ at startup and after 30 seconds or so a rock solid 14.5. With everything running it will dip to 13.5 at idle sometimes after a few minutes,other wise its 14.5. I also have an LED Voltage meter I put in the center of the dash. The regulator never gets more than warm to the touch so I don't think the stator is cooking anymore at least from electric loads. Being bathed in oil I'm sure eventually will meet its demise, long after I have met mine

[du907]

Replaced the plug connectors from the stator to the voltage regulator. Replaced both brake light switches and now brake lights work correctly. Had a fork seal blow on a club ride a couple of weeks ago and dripped down and ruined my brakes. I have finished replacing my fork seals and replacing brake pads. I used fork seals from Pyramid. I went out for a test ride and the battery light was still on, going off here and there. I check voltage at idle, around 12.96 to 13.14. Rev the engine to 4,000 and would get about 14.14 volts, coming back down at idle. Battery light staying on most of the time but going off at idle. Stator wires and positive feed wires are warm to touch, but not unbearable to hold. I'm still thinking voltage regulator because the battery light wire from the regulator pretty much goes straight to dash light, not much going on between them. The stator is not the original. I had to replace about 20,000 miles ago when the rotor cracked and welded to the stator, locking up the engine while I was on the track going fast. Was quite the eye opener.
du907

[du907]

It was raining yesterday so I had some time on my hands.
I took my voltage regulator off (A 15 year old Electrex RR51) and replaced it with the original Ducati voltage regulator that I had replaced. Since the Electrex is charging the battery and otherwise working I wanted to see if the battery light would still be on with the old regulator. After installing the old regulator the battery light did not come on, either at idle or 3,000 rpm. However the regulator was not charging the battery, only showing 12.3 volts at all rpm ranges. Probably the reason I replaced it a long time ago. So my main problem here is the battery light staying on most of the time. So I'm thinking of replacing with a Hot Shot Series Universal Style Rectifier Regulator 10_001H from Rick's Motorsports. It has Mosfet Technology and size and shape is more like what I have. Just wondering if it supports the battery light.
du907

[Crumpati]

I have an Electrex RR51 which according to Electrex is the replacement RR for the 907. Its a 5 wire job, (one red, one green, one white, two yellow.) The one on the bike is a 6 wire(2 yellow, 2 green and 2 red/white), assuming its original. Does anyone know how to wire this to the bike? thanks for your help.

[higgy]

https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/STK-177.pdf

or you could

Read The F.A.Q.

[Finnpaso]

Hi! I have put to my 2 907IE´s Electrex RR´s (RR51) and never since any problems, so i am very happy to those RR`s. Surely have to check all wires coming from stator to RR and i have welded all wires and insulated by heat shrinks, as poor connections can destroy RR and also stator inside engine left side.