1992 907 ie Charging System: a backstory and a question

[standswithabeer]

Hey guys,
I picked up a 1992 907 ie w/19K miles last fall and have spent some time over the winter performing the usual maintenance items in order to have a baseline. Have refreshed all fluids including fork oil, changed the drive belts, and have checked brake pads, wheel bearings, etc. I did note that the bike appears to be running off the battery, am reading 12.7v across the battery while running with no change while rev’ing. I had originally planned on installing a new reg/rectifier this spring, but noted in the PO's maintenance records it has been replaced twice so far. One was a RR from Rick’s in 2013, the records show another was replaced, but with no date or manufacturer. The RR in the bike looks like a Rick’s.

So I’ve done some reading and think before I toss more parts at the bike it would be prudent to check the AC output at the yellow wires, check continuity of RR wiring to their terminations, polish all the grounds I can find, etc. Have done a great deal of reading here, very helpful for sure.

I won’t be able to check AC output until the weather breaks, we seemed to have our January thaw in February and now it’s spring. About a month early. I live on a dirt road and it’s atrocious, so I won’t be able to get the bike out for further testing for awhile.

So onto my question. On the wiring diagram I noted there is a 30a fuse on the red wire, between the RR output and battery. It also feeds the fusebox, but after tracing the wire as best I can I can’t locate it. Any clues as to it’s location? I'd like to pull and check the fuse, polish the blades, and then check wiring continuity.

Thanks,
bob p

[standswithabeer]

Ah, just found it after taking another look. It's on the LH frame rail, and not a usual fuse so I missed it. It's actually a fusible link inside a small rectangular box. It looks perfect, but I'll be doing my continuity checks of all RR wiring later today.

[Tamburinifan]

If RR is faulty, Shindengen is recommended. Done by several here and can be found cheaply from Jap bikes second hand.

[standswithabeer]

yes, thx. have seen that recommendation before.

have done continuity checks on all RR wiring, and so far all is well. just ordered a 12v AC rectifier for the next test. from BikeBoy.org:

" Fit a dc rectifier between the yellows and battery. This directly charges the battery, and will show you whether or not the alternator can produce under load, which the ac test doesn't. Battery voltage should climb over 15v at quite low rpm. Don’t hold it above 15v for too long, but certainly make sure it can get there. I usually raise the rpm until I see 16 or 17, and then shut it off straight away. "

[englishstiv]

I feel your pain this was my remedy and not as expensive as it seemed it was also a Lithium battery that I fitted. My original thread is somewhere back in 2018.

Taken delivery of

New Stator
New Rectifier
New Fuel Pump
New Fuel filter
New Fuses
New Electrical connector
New Fuse Box
New Battery

[standswithabeer]

I was remiss in not updating my charging problem solution. all diagnostic work pointed to a faulty RR so I sent mine to rick's motorsports for testing. rick's tested the unit when it was received, and their tech called that day. my RR was faulty so I ordered a new unit, it was shipped that day and rec'd in 2 days. $20 testing fee was applied toward the cost of the new unit, free shipping to me, and it works perfectly. $125 total.

907ie RF.jpg (369.77 KiB) Viewed 3389 times

[higgy]

Ricks Motorsports is first rate. Got my custom stator wound by them