I thought it would be good to begin developing a FAQ for the 750 Paso Forum. We have many excellent threads that have answered the most common and some not so common problems.

What I hope to do is make links to the threads about specific problems/subjects so that folks coming to the forum can have easy access instead of searching. If you have a few favorite technical threads just please link to them here with a short description. It will be a work in progress so lets see how it goes.

DO NOT post new questions here!!

Here is a start:

Paso 750 Wiring Upgrade This thread contains information about making changes to your Paso wiring sytem that will improve starting.
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Starter Sprag Repair:

viewtopic.php?t=651
This thread is about the starter sprag and how to make repairs.
More Info: http://tinyurl.com/yz8dox
http://tinyurl.com/2e659h

When looking at the left engine side (alternator cover removed) the starter sprag clutch locks when rotating the flywheel counterclockwise. (the same rotating direction of the starter motor)
When replacing it and inserting the new unit in the flywheel of course it has to lock clockwise as you`re looking at its backside.

Jon Slocum

Repairs to the clutch slave cylinder:

viewtopic.php?t=626

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3947

note: the clutch slave cylinder is 26mm in diameter and it has an o-ring/seal on the piston. (hence the o-ring groove is in the piston)
There are different clutch covers that look identical from the outside like the one of the 750F1. Inside it`s different though as the piston has 27,95mm diameter and the groove for the o-ring is not on the piston but in the cylinder. Interchangeability is only given if you switch the complete cover!

If you have a piston with 2 bearings inside, where the upper bearing has loose bearing balls you have the one of the 906. This one can also be replaced by the new one mentioned in the link above.

alternative clutch piston seal:

viewtopic.php?t=676

clutch slave cylinder bearing:

SKF 608-ZZ (same as -2Z, both means: both sides metal shielded)
commonly used also in inline skates, skateboards etc so sport equipment shops may have it, too.

8mm inner diameter
22mm outer diameter
7mm width

Clutch Button (Mushroom Pin) Dimensions

according to the parts catalogue there were 2 mushroom pins (#037016730 & #067016730) which difference was their material. #037016730 is made of bronze.
The other one can still be found i.e. at http://www.stein-dinse-shop.com/ .The order number is 067016730 and it costs €4,25 according to the 2010/2011 catalogue. (Stein-Dinse is a german shop for Duc/Guzzi parts that has a few distributers in different countries. In US it`s http://www.mgcycle.com . In Australia it`s Stein-Dinse in Healesville, Vic., phone: 006135-9621366)




Clutch Master Rebuild

Clutch master cylinder failure is characterized by a relatively sudden loss of clutch stiffness. It can give little or no warning as to its impending failure.
The procedure to rebuild the master cylinder is relatively simple, and only requires a minimum of tools. A clean space to work and some patience is most important.

You will need Ducati part 000047226, which I obtained for approximately $25us. The dealer informed me that there is a price increase on the way which could raise it as high as $60us.

The procedure for this rebuild is outlined below

WARNING
Brake fluid can damage the paint on your Paso. Have a rag under your work area at all times!

1. Drain all fluid from the reservoir.
2. Remove banjo bolt from back of master cylinder that leads to clutch fluid tube.
3. Remove choke cable from choke lever.
4. Remove 2 allen bolts that retain master cylinder/lever assembly and withdraw the unit.

Gather up the following tools (shown from left to right) and find a clean place to work. You will also need a bottle of new brake fluid.
19mm wrench
medium phillips screwdriver
medium slotted screwdriver
very small slotted screwdriver
strong pick (like a dentist uses)
14mm socket

5. Using 19mm wrench, remove the lever retaining nut from the bottom of the assembly.
6. Push out the retaining pin and remove the lever from the assembly.
7. Spin the choke lever off it's mount, and remove the mount from the assembly.
8. Remove the pushrod from the dust seal in the now exposed end of the cylinder.
9. The seal will need to be picked out as much as possible to proceed. Be careful not to damage the inside of the cylinder.
10. After most or all of the seal has been removed, the piston and spring should drop free. Take note of which direction the spring faces in the assembly.
11. The seal and plastic bushing and o-ring are retained within the assembly with a press-in ring. There is a small hole in the side of the bore behind this ring, and with careful use of the small screwdriver, the ring can be distorted enough to remove easily. Also take note of which direction the plastic bushing faces.
12. Ensure that the o-ring is also out of the bore, and lay out the parts that you removed.
13. Lay out the new parts next to the old ones and make sure that they are all there. You will need to assemble the piston with the brass washer and seal, and the piston receiver will need to be inserted into the end of the spring.
14. Carefully flush out the bore with clean brake fluid.
15. Install the new o-ring in the groove.
16. Insert the spring, receiver side up.
17. Grease the piston and CAREFULLY slide it seal first into the bore.
18. Now comes the tricky part. The piston must be compressed, while the plastic bushing, dust boot, and press-in ring are all installed. I found that the best way to do this was to slip the dust seal over the plastic bushing, followed by sliding the press-in ring over the dust boot. Now, slip your 14mm socket onto the phillips screwdriver, then CAREFULLY slide the screwdriver into the hole in the end of the dust seal. Holding this assembly together, use the end of the screwdriver to compress the piston, whereas the retention/dustboot assembly should drop neatly into place.
19. GENTLY tap (the wrench works nicely) on the socket to drive the retention ring home.
20. Remove the screwdriver and socket, and put the pushrod into place.
21. Re-install the pin and clutch lever.
22. Pour about 1/4" of new brake fluid into the reservoir, and gently prime the cylinder.
23. Re-install the choke mechanism.
24. Pour yourself a pint of Guinness, and marvel at your work!

Dellorto Carbs:

Skins Ducati Cuddle:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=95

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Dellorto tuning:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=448

Clutch Plate Sequence:

viewtopic.php?t=490

viewtopic.php?t=412


Clutch Plate Pack order number:

190 200 22A (formerly 190 200 21A) or Surflex S2076 (or Surflex S1686 for the sintered clutch pack)
same for : 500 Pantah, 750 F1 -´88 (2.series), Montjuich ´86-´87, Laguna Seca ´87, 750 Sport ´88-´90, 750 SS ´91-´92, 900 SS ´89 -´90, 906 Paso ´89-´90, 750 Paso ´86-´89, 851 SB ´88, 888 Racing ´89

Putting a Pic on the Site

viewtopic.php?t=706 and go to the bottom of page three.

17 inch Wheel Conversion Info:

viewtopic.php?t=386

More info: Tire Changes

viewtopic.php?t=1455

17" wheel conversion info for 750 Sport
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2698

Weber Carb Info:

viewtopic.php?t=472

viewtopic.php?t=167

viewtopic.php?t=747

Whats wrong with your weber? Can pull more horses easily from that carb at a fraction of the cost!! They are so restricted its not funny[air flow wise] Due to european air emission regs. We have a magician on webers in nz. Murray @weberspecialties in the big A/land .Full range of kits & jets readilly available. e-mail weberspx@ihug.co.nz
or ph 094435638. He drilled the accelerator pump jet [40thou stock] to60 thou on my carb . Man what a differance!!!

Monster hugger on a Paso:

No change on CF hugger only 3 holes on swingarm.
Some photos.

http://www.badongo.com/pic.php?file=Hug ... G_6501.JPG
http://www.badongo.com/pic.php?file=Hug ... G_6502.JPG
http://www.badongo.com/pic.php?file=Hug ... G_6504.JPG
http://www.badongo.com/pic.php?file=Hug ... G_6507.JPG
http://www.badongo.com/pic.php?file=Hug ... G_6508.JPG

Keys


Hello all, just thought i would comment on this topic after sourcing new blanks for an existing key (the rounded ignition type and the seat lock). I had great feedback and help from a company in Australia http://www.keys4classics.com , who identified the key as their key blank number #253

well here's a copy of my invoice for 2 ignition blanks and 2 seat lock key blanks.

2 of #253 GT5BP @ 4.95
2 of #325 MER1@ 3.50
Shipping 2.95
TOTAL US$19.85

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Got some ignition keys cut locally.

Locksmith used a Fiat blank. Apparently there is a left handed and right handed blank.
Key blank is Silca marked GT GR

2 keys cut for £8.50 Sterling

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Just a note on Paso keys - In San Francisco, on Haight street, there is a hardware store that I purchased BOTH my ignition and seat lock keys at for less than $5. I'm sure you can order the blanks from them or stop in and have a set cut.

Roberts Hardware
http://www.robertshardware.com
1629 Haight St
San Francisco, CA 94117-2815
(415) 431-3392

Paso Production Numbers

An excellent post regarding the Paso production

Paso Production Numbers