Gauge Cluster Flopping Around

[wilbur]

Help! The gauge cluster on my Paso moves around a lot over bumps. Can someone explain how they are suppose to be attached to the fairing bracket? I see some places where it looks like it should have some studs sticking out of them or something. I'm not really sure. Parts manual really dosen't show much.

[streetsurfer]

Yes this came up a while back and there are rubber mounts with studs coming out of each end. Here is a link to one thread discussing them.http://ducatipaso.org/modules.php?name= ... +isolators
Also I have a receipt with part number 0377084180 called silent blocks. Not sure if that is a current number or not, as that receipt is from 02. The number in the thread is probably what you want.

[Desmo_Demon]

Excerpt from the linked thread given by streetsurfer:

Public Service Announcement - For future reference, the vibration dampening mounts for the instrument cluster have an M4x.70 thread with each thread section being 3/8" long and the rubber section 3/8" in diameter and 3/8" in length. I surfed through McMaster-Carr's catalog and the M4x0.7 with the same sized rubber or neoprene section but 1/2" threaded sections are Part #9376K111 and $1.50 each. This means that you can buy this part MUCH cheaper than the OEM, but you will have to cut 1/8" off of the threaded section that will go into the instrument cluster so you don't break the housing (it is a blind hole). I hope this helps save someone a few bucks in the future.

The vibration dampeners are still available from Ducati, but they charge $16 EACH! If you want the OEM ones, ProItalia may have them in stock. I find all sorts of items for the Paso on their shelves. If you want to go the Mac-Master Carr route, you will have to cut about 1/8" off of one side, as the hole that they thread into on the instrument cluster is a blind hole.....If you do not want to have to cut the part, You may be able to get away with using 1/8" thick washers between the instrument cluster and these dampeners, but that will pull the instrument cluster out another 1/8", and may be noticeable with the fairing in place. If you want to cut them down to size.....

Without a solid way to grip the ones from Mac-Master Carr, I would suggest buying a M4x0.7mm tap and finding a 3/8" thick, or thinner, piece of metal (preferably 3/8"). Drill and tap a hole in the piece of metal and thread the part into the metal leaving 1/8" sticking out of the rear of it (use washers if the piece of metal is thinner than 3/8". Then, grind down the threaded section that is sticking out the back of the metal with a die grinder or bench grinder.

When doing this, periodicaly dunk the part into a cup of water to prevent the metal from getting too hot and potentially melting the rubber. When you are through grinding off the section that you need to remove, unthread the piece from the metal and lightly dress the edges of the thread with a file (backing the piece out through the metal should shape the thread on the part because of the threading in the metal).

You want to be careful not to apply too much torque on these fasteners, also, as you can tear the rubber from the threaded piece. If the threaded part is stuck in the instrument cluster without enough sticking up to grip with pliers, grind a small slit in the center of the piece in the instrument cluster and use a screwdriver to back it out. If the rubber tore from the threaded part on the cluster, it will look like a smooth, round rivot.

[wilbur]

Hey guys!

Thanks for the reply. Now I know what I'm looking at. I saw the "silent blocks" in the parts manual but had no idea what they were. I will order the ones from McMaster and cut them down. I was able to get one out of the instrument panel but the others I will have to grind a slot into and use a screw driver. The one that are in there look like little rubber buttons that belonged there.

Thanks again.