Paso service questions

bf-fly · Post by **bf-fly** » Mon Apr 02, 2007 4:09 am

I'm looking for some recommendations for the following

Oil- Castrol Turbo II isn't available any more, just GTX 20/50.
Have any of you tried or use semi synthetics? Any issues? recommendations?

Oil Filter- I have a new Fram but I've read some less than glowing reports on them for bikes. I plan on getting a K&N. I'll run the Fram briefly with the GTX 20/50 then look for a better solution. Any ideas?

Spark plugs- Champion RA6YC??? Does anybody still use these? How about NGK or NGK Iridium? Any feedback there?

Fuel additives- the manual says no, anybody say different?

Belt change and valve adjustment, how much should I expect to pay?

If I plan on staying with the dreaded Webber carb, can I go up a main jet size with a K&N with the stock airbox and stock pipes. Any performance suggestions for the stock set up (other than throwing it out)

What's the deal with the rusty rotors, is that a Ducati thing? I see it on all older ones. Any suggestions for clean up other than new EBC's?

Thanks, I would appreciate and experience or tips you can relate

Post by **jcslocum** » Mon Apr 02, 2007 11:25 am

Toss the Fram in the trash and get a PerForm or the K&N.

I lust use regular Dino oil, 20-50. No reason synthetic coulldn't be used.

Belts are super easy to do on a 2-valve. You should do them yourself.

There is a huge thread in the FAQ aboult tuning the Weber.

The rotors are cast iron. Nothing you can do about the rust.

I hope this helps some.

bf-fly · Post by **bf-fly** » Mon Apr 02, 2007 1:51 pm

Thank you. I'm gonna run it with the Fram for 50-100 miles or so. I'm not really confident that the previous owners changed the oil all that frequently so I'll drain it, run it with fresh, then drain it again. Then with the K&N (on order) and likely a semi synthetic.

bf-fly · Post by **bf-fly** » Mon Apr 02, 2007 1:53 pm

I think I will do the belts myself, I've downloaded the manual. Just have to find them first. I assume they used the same for many years, including newer bikes so the dealer should have them.

DesmoDog · Post by **DesmoDog** » Mon Apr 02, 2007 5:47 pm

bf-fly wrote:I think I will do the belts myself, I've downloaded the manual. Just have to find them first. I assume they used the same for many years, including newer bikes so the dealer should have them.

Sad to say but you can't assume the dealer will carry ANYTHING for these bikes. Most dealers I've been to recently seem to have no idea Ducati built bikes before 1991... and getting parts for my '91 is even touch and go.

Much of this is a case by case basis though, some dealers are more willing to help than others.

streetsurfer · Post by **streetsurfer** » Mon Apr 02, 2007 6:13 pm

Belts From an 88' Paso - UNIROYAL PowerGrip 41068 x 3/4"

Those numbers from take offs so they may not be current coding but it is something to start with.

Desmo_Demon · Post by **Desmo_Demon** » Mon Apr 02, 2007 6:16 pm

bf-fly wrote:I think I will do the belts myself, I've downloaded the manual. Just have to find them first. I assume they used the same for many years, including newer bikes so the dealer should have them.

They should have the belts in stock....fi they have any inventory at all....as the belts are the same ones that are used on early Monster 750 and Supersport 750 bikes.

As for the Fram filter, I wouldn't get too worried about it. My wife has run Fram filters on several of her GSXR bikes over the years without any issues. I've also been using Fram filters exclusively on all my four-wheeled vehicles since about 1985....my current Honda Civic has 224,000 miles on it and still running strong......in the same breath, though, I've switched my Ducatis, Harley, and the wife's GSXR to K&N filters.....mainly for the nut on the end of it which makes it 10x easier to get off the bikes.

If you want some good instructions on doing the valves and belt change/adjustment, check out http://www.ducatisuite.com . Jon has recently taken over custodial duties of that site.

bf-fly · Post by **bf-fly** » Mon Apr 02, 2007 7:49 pm

Thanks guys, I appreciate the info. I am a newbe to Ducatis so even the simplest info it's best to ask the experts.

I have the Fram on now, as I said I'll run it 50-100 miles and change again. Will go with the K&N. What I've read about Fram is they're kinda living off their name. Once upon a time they were the best, or near so, now they use cheaper construction, cheap materials. I've used Frams before so I don't worry, but of course what is of far greater importance is how frequestly you change the oil/filter.

Any suggestions on the spark plugs? Has anybody else used the auto belts?

bf-fly · Post by **bf-fly** » Tue Apr 03, 2007 12:55 am

I have a new question. I'm having a hell of a time getting the inner lock nut/bolt to come free of the rear axle to tighten the chain. Could it be reverse threads? The manual says nothing, just "loosen"

Any help would be appreciated...,

streetsurfer · Post by **streetsurfer** » Tue Apr 03, 2007 1:37 am

Not reversed thread. I broke the allen wrench on mine once. They seem to seize. I will say an impact driver is a better choice than a hard steady tug. Repetitive tapping motions help break loose better than constant force. Good luck!

bf-fly · Post by **bf-fly** » Tue Apr 03, 2007 1:45 am

Thanks. I have it sitting overnight with the wheel on it's side with PB Bead Blaster filled to the top of the cavity. Yikes! It just doesn't want to move.

streetsurfer · Post by **streetsurfer** » Tue Apr 03, 2007 2:01 am

Use caution with the pinch bolts that go into the swingarm also. Moisture gets in the swing arm and corrodes the exposed end of the lower bolt. I've had to heli-coil one side when it stripped upon extraction. Don't force those. In and out a little at a time, lots of lube. Drain and blow it out well and spray a dispersant like WD40 in there and anti-seize those bolts... if I remember right you can spray lube into a hole from the chain guide prior to removal if they are stuck. I think that is what I did, but it has been a long time ago.

I recently had to use the same procedure on my KTM. Funny note about that - when I was blowing its swingarm out pieces of what looked like wheat straw came out.

bf-fly · Post by **bf-fly** » Tue Apr 03, 2007 2:10 am

Thanks, but no problem with the pinch bolts, but I will re-install with anti seize, thanks

Post by **jcslocum** » Tue Apr 03, 2007 1:23 pm

bf-fly wrote:Thanks guys, I appreciate the info. I am a newbe to Ducatis so even the simplest info it's best to ask the experts.
Any suggestions on the spark plugs? Has anybody else used the auto belts?

I ordered the belts thru my local "good" dealer and they had them in a few days. To have them shipped to you call BCM in NH or Cliff's in Danbury, CT. Ask for Aldrin at Cliff's or Miles at BCM. Both are superior parts guys and will get you anything you need.

Tell them Jon Slocum from DESMO recommended you call.

There is belt changing instructions on the ducati suite site and it's a very simple task. I need to add an additional step tho; mark the edge of the old belt AND pulleys with some nail polish or paint. Once you have the belt off, lay it on top of the new belt precisely lining up the teeth and transfer your marks to the new belt edge. Now when you put the new belt on, just line up the marks and the belts will be installed perfectly. Just tension and ride! This is a 45 minute task.

Desmo_Demon · Post by **Desmo_Demon** » Tue Apr 03, 2007 1:43 pm

jcslocum wrote:mark the edge of the old belt AND pulleys with some nail polish or paint.

Since the timing marks on the pulleys are only good for TDC on the horizontal cylinder, I always make a second set of timing marks for TDC on the vertical cylinder. I don't mark my new belts as some people do....I just make sure that all the timing marks line up as I rotate the engine, and I rotate the engine a few times by hand to make sure that there is no resistance (like having the timing off and tapping a valve with a piston).