Carbon Fiber 101

[jcslocum]

I'm project addicted, so I'm now trying to make my own carbon fiber parts. I'm starting with a CF protector for the corner of a 1098R fuel cell. It's an easy shape to learn on before I try to make a front fender and belt covers for my F1. The CF will be made inside of the mold and then mounted to the tank with silicone glue. This will protect the corner of the tank in case of a crash at the track.

Check out the pictures here: Jonboy's Carbon Fiber Adventure

I have learned a few things during this first try; too much resin mixed, it runs all over the place!! mask off any nearby parts to make cleanup easier, heat is good, cool basement is bad, the fiberglass wets out easily and doesn't hold much resin.

On to the other side tonight and then begins the CF and vacuum bagging!

[Finnpaso]

Keep us updated!

[Tamburinifan]

!
A "because you can!" thread, I love it!
Keep us posted!

[persempre907]

I don't manage to see your pics
Ciao

[jcslocum]

try again.

[JWilliam]

I think the Formula 1 team chassis manufacturers have a vacuum process which the freshly resin impregnated carbon fibre is subjected. The objective is to remove as much pre-set resin as possible so that the final product is nearly all carbon fibre with the minimum amount of resin for bonding to have the lowest weight possible. Takes some complex procedure so you've a way to go yet.

[persempre907]

It's so.
The parts are finally baked into a vacuum oven.
So the carbon fiber parts result brilliant and light.
Ciao

[jcslocum]

These are not structural parts so ultimate strength isn't an issue. If the item is to be cure in an oven or Austoclave then they use a Pre-Preg carbon fabric. This fabic already has the resin pre saturated or impregnated into it to control the resin content to the proper percentage which I think is 37%

I'm using the vacuum bagging cold cure process. This is very similar to the ove preceoss but without the heat. The part is formed on the mold using the least amount of resin possible to get it fully wet. A plastic film; peel-ply, with little holes in it is laid onto the back or open side of the mold. Over the peel ply is a breather fabric to allow air to be vacuumed out over the whole mold and absorb any excess resin that is squeezed out thru the peel-ply.

I have never done any of this but I will share my experiences with you all.

[higgy]

My understanding is that for a fuel tank you need a percentage of kevlar to make it more abrasion and crack resistant in the event of an accident as well as a sealer to prevent ethonal errosion. Would hate to see you do a Mark Brelsford re enactment.

[wilbur]

Nice work Jon! Keep us posted!

Higgy, Jon is making protectors for the tank, not a tank. So, the Kevlar not critical at this point.

[jcslocum]

Higgy is right, Kevlar would be used in certain areas of a tank; the sides and around the filler neck.

Here's an update to the project. The last 15 pics are session #2 with the mold making process. I employed lessons learned in round #1 and it went much easier this time.

http://tinyurl.com/q9c6sb

[Tamburinifan]

So, when can we make a paso carbon Wish list?

[wilbur]

So, when can we make a paso carbon Wish list?
So, when can we make a paso carbon Wish list?

Oh, that would be nice. I'll take all the body panels and a tank please.

[higgy]

Get yourself a roller Jon,if you have not already. Most decent sized boat shops should have them for about 10 bucks. They help with the air pockets
Also you might try a chopped strand mat for your first layer, it takes to tight radius shapes much easier than woven mat also it takes on resin better than the woven
and a roller makes it a sinch to get the shape you need. After you have the shape you can add a layer or two of woven for strength

[Finnpaso]

So, when can we make a paso carbon Wish list?
So, when can we make a paso carbon Wish list?

Oh, that would be nice. I'll take all the body panels and a tank please.

Is this AGAIN some list to Santa Claus ?????? (like to get new michelins)